4.2 tbi upgraded, but now i have issues. HELP! - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 219 Old 03-10-2013, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
motormike24
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Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Mike, just yankin' your chain a little....

Stock 258, 98K miles, and Weber 38.

I know you'll get the TBI setup, eventually.

Matt

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lol nice. but like u said, weber, not carter :P. nice runnin jeep tho!

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post #167 of 219 Old 03-11-2013, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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well, apparently the jeep hates me. no wonder we call it a space ship. lol. my buddy ran some errands this morning before i got up, and he said its back to doing exactly the same crap, only it doesnt die at all when warm. and still has plenty of power. so the lag issue must have been the fuel pressure regulator. however, the failure to find a happy idle when cold is still the most pressing issue. and the crazy part is that most of the time theres no check engine light. it seems that when it runs good, theres a light. when its falling on its face trying to idle, theres not. kinda backwards id think. any ideas anyone? i feel like i've been through absolutely everything....
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post #168 of 219 Old 03-11-2013, 12:47 PM
Jon In Tucson
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well, apparently the jeep hates me. no wonder we call it a space ship. lol. my buddy ran some errands this morning before i got up, and he said its back to doing exactly the same crap, only it doesnt die at all when warm. and still has plenty of power. so the lag issue must have been the fuel pressure regulator. however, the failure to find a happy idle when cold is still the most pressing issue. and the crazy part is that most of the time theres no check engine light. it seems that when it runs good, theres a light. when its falling on its face trying to idle, theres not. kinda backwards id think. any ideas anyone? i feel like i've been through absolutely everything....

Mike,
When the cold idle problem happens, have you logged any data with your laptop? It has been suggested that there may be a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake area. After warm up it goes away. Could there be a intake manifold gasket leak or a loose bolt on the intake? If you run a torque wrench on the intake bolts cold will it make a difference? A vacuum leak could certainly make for an uneven idle. Would a fully warmed up engine heat up the metal parts on the intake enough to seal a small vacuum leak? Just thinking out loud... God bless.
Jon In Tucson

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post #169 of 219 Old 03-11-2013, 02:33 PM
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With a hot engine do your manual idle setting. Who knows where it ended up. Plus now that the IAC seals off the hole its got to figure it out again.
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post #170 of 219 Old 03-11-2013, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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With a hot engine do your manual idle setting. Who knows where it ended up. Plus now that the IAC seals off the hole its got to figure it out again.
yes, i did that twice, anticipating that it would fix the issue since the old iac was junk. no dice. runs exactly the same. however, new problem. which MAY also be my whole problem. drove the space ship across the state back to grand rapids so we can get all my stuff to move down here to detroit. got almost 200 miles (nearly all the way there), and got off the highway. in the time it took to let off the gas to turn on the turn signal to exit the highway, to the time i got to the stop sign, it went from 190 degrees to maxed out on the temp gauge. shut it down immediately. smoke poured out from under the hood, and found all the coolant boiling out of it. also had lost power a few miles back. however, this makes me think back to be4 we left. did a pre-trip inspection. i noticed when it was hot, there were very VERY tiny coolant bubbles comming from what seemed to be the valve cover gasket, about 3 or 4 bolts from the front of the head. no where near the normal spot the heads crack (by the dual exhaust ports). soooo... i figured **** it cracked the head under the valve cover and filled the top of the head with coolant. so i went to pull the valve cover to inspect it, and as i got the bolt halfway out, it POURED out of the threaded hole! i was mortified. never in my life have i seen such a thing. so i quickly tightened the bolt back down so that i wouldnt drain it all into the block and head. as i snugged it down, it stopped. didnt so much as have a drop come back out. and it was at full temp and the upper hose was still pressurized. drove it twice through the city, and still didnt leak. then rebuilt the TBI. still no leak. so i knew the head had to be cracked just didnt know how far or from where to where. so we drove it from detroil to lowell, (about 150-200 miles), ran great the whole way there til the last 3 or 4 miles and the first time we stopped since we started the trip. when i lifted the hood, it was bubbling very hard out of the valve cover right next to where that same bolt is at. ive never seen a motor over heat INSTANTLY like that did. or a head crack like that. BUT, its raising new questions. i wonder if maybe this crack was originally formed from an intake port? which may cause this vacuum leak everyone keeps suspecting, yet we cant find. however, if thats the case, why did the coolant just start comming out? oh, yea, and right when it over heated it blew so much white smoke out of the back of the tailpipe that you couldnt see the car behind it. so why would it just now suddently have coolant problems, when it never leaked or used a drop before?????? and it didnt overheat til allllll that crap happened. at once. ?????????
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post #171 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 02:23 AM
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At the very least you will need to remove the head and look at everything and put a new head gasket on it.

Splurge for new head bolts too. Sometimes they stretch and re-torqueing them don't work so good.
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post #172 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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yea i figured that. but i have called everywhere, nobody can even order head bolts for the 4.2 can i use 4.0 headbolts???
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post #173 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 09:10 AM
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Here's where I'd get them.

I'm surprised you've never heard of ARP, considering all those "drag racing engines" you've built.

Good luck, man. I think I would have unloaded a full clip of 44 mags into that engine by now.

Matt


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post #174 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 09:50 AM
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www.headbolts.com has had the 4.2 head bolts before.
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post #175 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here's where I'd get them.

I'm surprised you've never heard of ARP, considering all those "drag racing engines" you've built.

Good luck, man. I think I would have unloaded a full clip of 44 mags into that engine by now.

Matt
im ready to. lol. and yes ive bought tons of headbolts/stud kits from arp. problem is we only have til thursday to have this head torn down, the new head machined and have it all back together to make it back across the state. no time to wait on shipping. and NOBODY can even get me a felpro part number. or any part number. even the dealer said they have to order them individually (dumbest thing ive ever heard) and would take about a week. FML. for being a motor that was made for over 20 years, you would THINK the head bolts would be a hot seller....
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post #176 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 01:47 PM
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U-haul truck and a car dolly, bud.

Matt


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post #177 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 02:16 PM
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The lack of head bolts doesn't stop work on the head. Fed Ex has this thing called overnight shipping too.
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post #178 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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i found a company in florida that said they'd overnight em to me. so we are all good there. got the head just about off, just gotta wait on my buddy to come over later and help me lift it out. i have broken pieces in my spine so not tryin to hurt myself. hopefully the machine shop calls in the mornin with good news. didnt see any cracks on the top of the head anywhere tho, so im really friggin curious where its cracked. ill let ya know how it turns out
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post #179 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 07:09 PM
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I've run into a lot of short cutters that don't do everything to a "T" and don't take this the wrong way. Please.......

I always run a tap in the block to clean the head bolt threads and continue Untill the tap handle twirls into the hole.

Then I oil the washers on both sides to ensure I get the correct torque without the friction holding anything up.

And for the torquing procedure I always klick the torque wrench at least three times to ensure its torque is consistent.

And before anything all surfaces get cleaned with acetone.
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post #180 of 219 Old 03-12-2013, 07:19 PM
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86,

I'm sure Mike knows all of that.

But, for the rest of us, that is some great advise.

Thanks,

Matt


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