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Unread 09-24-2014, 09:51 PM   #1
DUX4LIFE
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Location: ILLINOIS
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4.2 out, 4.3 into my CJ7 project. Now going 5.7 tbi See post 10

Even though I haven't posted much in the past several years since finishing my jeep. Here it is as of 2010.

I received enough assistance from the folks here to accomplish this in about 8 months. I did all the work including the body work myself with the exception of the windshield install. I have since had the axles rebuilt and switched to 4.11 gears
I still lurk regularly though. Well The short story is in May my 1979 CJ7 with a 4.2 Backfired and died. I coasted into the parking lot and tried to restart it. It would run for a few seconds and die. At one point it ran well for about 30 seconds and just like flipping of a switch it died. The parking lot in which it died in happened to be a Carquest. We tried a different ignition module but no luck. I had it towed to the house. Found some bare wires on the distributor and replaced the pickup. No luck. I was busy with my full time job and Also busy making and selling beehives

and trying to start an Apiary

I didn't have time to mess with it. That and the other issues of the carburation and an oil leak between the tranny and block left me not wanting to spend any more money on it until I verified that the block wasn't cracked. Oh and also the horrible screech that occurred every time you turned it over. I went through 4-5 starters trying to find one that would work. Best I could do was push the starter close to the block and crank the bolts tight. The bellhousing bolt may have been wallowed out is what I think. But hey I got $50 in the motor and got about 4 years out of it.
Fast forward to now. I have decided to swap in a chevy 4.3. I had been looking for a donor vehicle for the past few months but everything fell through. Last week I found a 1999 astrovan.

On Monday I picked it up and drove it onto the trailer. Since it was an abandoned vehicle the local tow yard tried for 3 years to get a clean title for it. Our screwed up state would not give them anything but a junk title. For $400 The owner of the yard sold me what ever I wanted off of it.
Here is my first question What should I take? Monday afternoon I removed the complete under hood wiring harness all the way to the fuel tank. I also unbolted the sub frame. A friend came with a Skid Steer and raised the front of the van high enough for us to drag the subframe out of the side. Tuesday I yanked out the engine and tranny and put the subframe back under the van to get it out of the driveway.
Is there anything else I need to snag from the van before it goes to the junkyard?
I have been reading and searching these threads for about a month now and believe I have read all the internet has to offer. I even ventured into the YJ threads trying to research it. I think I have a good grasp on what is needed so now I have to start. I will tackle this project just like the original project. One problem at a time.

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Unread 09-25-2014, 10:02 AM   #2
John N
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I run an Astro van pitman arm, but if you're close to stock you won't need it. Does it have hydro boost brakes? That system is a huge upgrade over stock.
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'81 Scrambler w/ FI 360 AMC, 33x12.50 BFG M/T's, 5" of lift, ARB'd Dana 44's F & R, Dana 300 clocked & twin sticked w/4:1, Warn XD9000i, etc...
2002 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2008 Overland Grand Cherokee, a 1976 CJ-7 in pieces and 3 more off-brand 4x4s...............
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Unread 09-25-2014, 02:50 PM   #3
Redmanchew
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make sure you get the ECU and transmission controller if it was a separate unit. My 2003 came engine/trans engine harness, body harness, and make sure you have the o2 pigtail connections. any relay block/power distribution can always be adapted for down the road.... not sure if the vortec fuel pump itself will fit in a CJ tank but you cant try unless you have it.... that's a couple hundered saved. not sure if the seats are adaptable......
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1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 09-25-2014, 06:01 PM   #4
DUX4LIFE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John N View Post
I run an Astro van pitman arm, but if you're close to stock you won't need it. Does it have hydro boost brakes? That system is a huge upgrade over stock.
Won't need the Pitman arm as I don't have much lift. I will do a little research and see what the hydroboost looks like. How hard is it to adapt?
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Unread 09-25-2014, 06:06 PM   #5
DUX4LIFE
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Looking at the images it may very well have the hydroboost. The master cylinder was linked to the steering gear by a hose. However my power steering pump has a remote reservoir which may work out ok also.
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Unread 09-25-2014, 07:16 PM   #6
DUX4LIFE
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Got it off along with the brake switch. Couldn't get the pedal and mount off though. Since the gas pedal mounts on it also I thought it might be kind of nice. Maybe tomorrow I will give it another try. Thanks for the Hydroboost suggestion.
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Unread 09-25-2014, 07:34 PM   #7
DUX4LIFE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmanchew View Post
make sure you get the ECU and transmission controller if it was a separate unit. My 2003 came engine/trans engine harness, body harness, and make sure you have the o2 pigtail connections. any relay block/power distribution can always be adapted for down the road.... not sure if the vortec fuel pump itself will fit in a CJ tank but you cant try unless you have it.... that's a couple hundered saved. not sure if the seats are adaptable......
Redman, I was hoping you would chime in. I have read most of your posts over the last few weeks along with leftlanetruckin, Jeeperdon, KrwlinYJ, and Dirtman plus a few otherts. Do you have a build thread? How about Dirtman? I got the big black computer ecm/pcm/ecu/whatever it is called that was under the hood. I also got the entire wiring harness out from under the hood all the way back to the fuel pump. Only broke 2 sensors when the motor rolled over. I think one was the 3rd line that goes back to the tank(vent)? It wasn't one of the 2 that goes to the fuel rail. The other was switch that was mounted on the end of the shift linkage arm and is still attached to the wiring harness. I have all of the o2 sensors and associated wiring. I took the under hood power supply but left the incab fuse box. The only thing I took from the inside was the connector for the obdll. I pulled the fuel pump and sending unit to see if could be used for the CJ. Thanks
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Unread 09-26-2014, 08:35 AM   #8
Redmanchew
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I don't have a build and I'm not sure if DIrtman is even around anymore. I will be more then happy to try to answer any questions you have. I am not on here all that much but I do get a PM notification via email..... it sounds like you are on the right track so far....
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1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 09-26-2014, 11:49 AM   #9
DUX4LIFE
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I will get in touch when I progress further. Do I need to grab the hoses from the donor vehicle for the hydroboost?
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Unread 10-02-2014, 05:59 PM   #10
DUX4LIFE
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Got a call this week from an owner of a wrecked truck I tried to purchase before i got into the Astro-van. Seems like the buyer backed out and he needs to get it out of his dads barn. Sooo, I bought it. 1994 silverado with a 5.7 rebuilt 60,000 miles ago. Anyone need a 4.3 complete with computer and harness??? Lol. I am not in the mood to part another vehicle out but I guess it will keep me in the groove for the jeep teardown.
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Unread 10-26-2014, 12:30 PM   #11
DUX4LIFE
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Ok, Update. I stripped out the truck. It is a 1994 silverado with a 350 TBI/4L60E. I grabbed the entire underhood wiring harness. I cut the dash wires after the connector behind the glove box. I also grabbed the VSS Buffer and its harness. I labeled the wires at the ECM side and again at the termination end. Then I removed the wires that were not needed. This is what I have left:

ORANGE wire to fusible Link with ring terminal and splitters
Lg PINK wire to coil
Lg PURPLE to Starter Solenoid
RED wire to TBI INJECTORS (joins white wire to Injectors, 1 wire to each)
RED wire to Fuel Pump Relay(Research shows this goes to fuel pump prime connector?)
RED/WHT to Heated O2 Sensor

I also have wires that I am unsure where they run to or if they are needed:
WHITE from the Coil (I am sure it is needed but need to do more research as to where to connect it)
PURPLE Marked E13 split from Main E13 wire

From the Transmission I have:
a PINK wire that needs to go somewhere. NEEDS TO GO TO THE IGNITION SWITCH WITH A 10 OR 25 AMP FUSE.

From the ECM side I have:
E12 GREEN Wire to AC. (I may try to use this to bump the rpm for the winch, Leaving this coiled up for now)
E13 PURPLE (A splitter wire from the main E13 wire, I think I can just cut the stub and tape it right?)
E15 PINK/BLK-ECM ignition feed. This need to be connected to 3 AMP FUSE IN START AND RUN it feeds the ECM and further downstream?
E6 BROWN/WHT-Check Engine Light. Does this go to one end of the light and the other end of the light go to a ground?

From the Main harness under hood to the ECM I have:
BLACK/WHT wire Joins with A1 Ground. Can I connect this to a Ground on the VSS Buffer and the data link connector.

I also removed the Oil pressure wiring from the harness. The TAN wire that went to the instrument panel was cut out as I am using a mechanical Gauge. The ORANGE wire was connected to the GRAY wire to complete the circuit.

ETA:The wiring schematic is from Gearhead-EFI.com My ECM is 16196395. lINK http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...nformation-OE& Post #7
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Unread 12-10-2014, 06:31 PM   #12
DUX4LIFE
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Location: ILLINOIS
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UPDATE, 2 questions regarding the new harness hookup

I'm going to throw this out as I have read up on it but can't grasp it. I have stripped out the harness and almost finished it up(just waiting for the split loom to arrive). I followed some of the Binder Bunch links and here is where I am at.
1. I layed the harness on the engine and connected all of the sensors.
2. connected to battery.
3. fuel pump relay clicked and fuel pump ran for 30 seconds then shut off.
4. injectors clicked for a second or 2
5. coil/distributor clicked
6. with the distributor grounded but out of the block, when I spun the shaft the spark plug fired as did the empty dist terminals that were close to the block.
7. When I spun the dist shaft the injectors both clicked and the fuel pump again pumped.
I think I got it. My question:

1. I had all of the wires that need power connected temporarily to the battery for testing. Tonight I ran the large purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid to a relay and tested it. Starter engages fine. Can I connect the wire that energizes the relay to one on the jeep that goes to the starter solenoid? Would this be the HOT IN CRANK ONLY?
2. What I can't grasp is on all of the threads the coil/injectors/ecm need to be HOT IN RUN AND CRANK. does the other wire on the jeep solenoid serve that purpose? I can't figure out if the wires need to be connected to something that is HOT when the key is in the RUN position and something else to make them HOT in the CRANK position??? Or does this one wire serve both purposes(Hot In Run and Crank)
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Unread 12-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #13
DUX4LIFE
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The wire I was thinking about are the red and blue in this image from Jeephammer. I can't find the diagram I really referred to.
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