4.2 carbs? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 10 Old 01-17-2010, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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4.2 carbs?

whats seems to be reliable and carbs that are working?
Just put together a 4.2 with a comp cam and fuel injection is out of the question at this point.

this looks like a reasonable deal on ebay.

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-17-2010, 07:14 PM
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Weber carbs are expensive. They are good for street driven Jeeps but they suffer from float bowl fuel spillover that will stall the engine on steep trail inclines. Webers can difficult to set-up and tune properly.

The Ford 2100 or 2150 is a much more trail friendly carb, and costs much less. They are very common at the junkyard on 302 V-8's and rebuild kits are available everywhere.


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post #3 of 10 Old 01-17-2010, 07:36 PM
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x2 on the MC2100/2150. great carbs. got one on my 4.2, love it off road. 200% better than the old carter BDD that cjs got from the factory

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-17-2010, 07:43 PM
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I have had great luck with my weber since I rebuilt it and added a holley fpr.The po of my jeep did not know what he was doing when he set up the weber.
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-18-2010, 12:06 AM
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Motor craft 2100 is definitely the way to go with a 258/4.2 L. You can eliminate almost all of the vacuum lines that the old weber carb needed and you can buy totally rebuild and ready to slap on the engine. Auto or manual choke are available. MC 2100 will not disappoint.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-18-2010, 07:22 AM
Mike Romain
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If you are saving up for FI, then why not just blow $20.00 on a carb kit for the Carter BBD carb? They can just purr when kitted and have a pretty good punch for power. If you take your time, the kits go in easy and come with good directions.

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post #7 of 10 Old 01-18-2010, 09:24 AM
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The weber carbs work just fine. Mine works well enough not sure if FI help me that much more. Great mileage and no hick ups offroad. The price has also dropped about $100 they used to push $400 and are now under $300 for a kit. I would recommend the Weber34 or Weber32/36 they are both progressive means the first barrel opens first and then the second with more throttle. I hardly ever even hit the second barrel unless I am getting on it. The 2100 and BBD will also work but then you have a used situation. They all work well.

If you use this link, follow all the links that it has you will not have any issues setting up a weber... its pretty easy if you can use a time light and your cj motor is sound.

The only hick up I see.... when you have a new motor its nice to have a carb that is already running well for the first start up and first break in period
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-18-2010, 05:28 PM
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I run a Rochester 2GC, I'm more familiar with Chevy parts. No problems on hills or inclines. Easy to set up after you make the adapter plate. Only $89 for a really good rebuildt carb set up for a 283.

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post #9 of 10 Old 01-19-2010, 08:30 AM
Happy Joe
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Jeesh! Just put a rebuild kit in it (good for around 50,000 miles, then repeat) and do some junk yard injection after this temporary fix.
Carbs always have been a maintenance hassle and always will be; do yourself a favor and get rid of that problematic bug sprayer technology.


...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway.

Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road.
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-19-2010, 08:49 AM
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The carb you have shown us is the RGM. It was produced some years back to fill the void left as a result of the Weber labor strike.

I spoke to the Redline support staff about a year or so back when another user was considering it. The report said that it was a good carb but is no longer produced and no longer has any support.

Last edited by mcmud; 01-19-2010 at 10:42 AM.
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