Originally Posted by RenoF250
Why do you say it will add $1,500? I am working on a stroker now and the only added cost I see it the crank and rods which I got from CL for $75, then the crank grind for $140. You also need bigger injectors but those can be had for <$150. Everything else except the cam can be the same and the stroker cam does not cost any more. The IC944 pistons that use 4.0 rods are $400 vs. the cheapest possible cast at $150 so you could add another $250 there. Still <$700 difference.
With the greatest respect, you are comparing building a stroker to dropping in a stock 4.0HO unit, already buttoned up and complete. I suggest your list of additional parts is not complete, routine items such as head gaskets and bearing shells are missing, and you are underestimating the work you could be doing to make it reliable and long lived.
The recipe you use is up to you but more bucks spent on parts at this stage will directly affect how it performs. If all I had to do was swap the crank, rods and pistons to make a stroker all my Jeeps would have them installed at the annual service.
Here is one recipe I have on file that may be a little out of date on prices (2005 prices) but is reasonably comprehensive. You will get the idea of what a budget stroker could look like price wise. YOU CAN BUILD THEM FOR LESS AND YOUR RECIPE IS YOUR CHOICE:
Jeep 4.0 I6 short block : FREE, YOU ALREADY HAVE ONE
Reground AMC 258 crankshaft and rods - you spent $215 including used rods
Clevite 77 rod bearings #CB-960P-20(6): $77
Federal Mogul main bearings #FM7211M.030: $35
Crankshaft rear main seal #05018594AA: change it now - $7
Crankshaft pilot bearing #53009180AB: reused
ARP rod bolts (AMC 258) #112-6001: reused is not advisable $35 from Fast Engine Parts
Sealed Power 677P +0.020 pistons #STL-677P20: 2014 price - $150
Hastings +0.020 cast piston rings #667: $30
Clevite 77 camshaft bearings #SH-549S: $17
Crane camshaft CRN-753905 & lifters CRN-99278-12: I would change the cam to get the best out of the build but up to you - $179 from Summit Racing
Main bearing studs: reused
Main bearing girdle & retaining nuts: reused
Main bearing girdle spacer kit (14 hardened 5/16" steel washers): $1
Crankshaft sprocket #53020443 & timing chain #53020444: reused
Camshaft sprocket #53020445: stock '94-'98 $27
Camshaft sprocket bolt #83502890 & washer #J3173284: stock reused
Crank harmonic damper #33002920T: $29
Crank pulley spacer: free
Pioneer brass freeze plugs x7: $7
Oil pan: free with block
Oil pump: reused
Victor Reinz lower gasket set #CS-5713X: $29
Thsi first section for the bottom end parts is $838
Cylinder head : FREE
Head bolts: should really chaneg these but I have assumed reused
Mopar Performance valve springs #5249464, retainers #4452032, & locks #4529218: - I need these for teh new cam - $153 from The Moparts Connection
Stock 1.6 ratio rocker arms: reused
Valve cover: reused
Victor Reinz upper gasket set #HS-5713Z: $45
To get the head parts is $198
Distributor Lucas #53006150: reused
Oil filler cap #53020555: reused
Flowkooler high-flow water pump #1747: You may want to drop this one -$111 from Flowkooler
Robertshaw 180* thermostat #330-180: $10 from Flowkooler
Mopar oil filter #5281090: $7
Champion RC12LYC spark plugs: $9
Mopar serpentine drivebelt #53010269: change it now - $35
Injectors - your price but I recall the multi orifice ones are a little more - $180
These bits are $371.
So in parts, bearing in mind you have a free 4.0 block, is nearly $1,400 and those are mostly old 1995 prices. If you need them shipping then add a few more dollars.
You could make it work without the camshaft and springs etc or modifying the cooling system and save a few bucks, it depends on your recipe. However I was tempted to price in a new oil pump as well as shotpeened and checked rods to replace your used ones.
Engine Shop Work (crank grind is above)
0.020" cylinder overbore & hone
Press in new cam bearings
Press pistons onto rods
Regrind valve seats
Clean, polish, & lap valves
Acid dip valve cover
Press freeze plugs into block
Cut crank pulley spacer
I have assumed that the block will be flat and you can get it to seal. The deck height is important on a stroker so you may still need to get it ground. You could of course save money by not overboring and honing and try standard pistons but it is actually quite cheap.
The engine shop costs should be around $200-300, say $200, but you may end up spending more on the deck.
Parts cost: $1400
Engine shop cost: $200
TOTAL GROSS COST: $1600
So that is how I have got to around $1500 for a budget stroker that will perform and be reliable for many years. If you do not put in new bearings and gaskets it will not last long but some of those other parts could be cheapened out to lower the cost, the sky is the limit on the parts you could add.
On balance $1500 looks about right for a budget stroker over and above the cost of putting the 4.0HO straight in.