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Unread 03-05-2012, 07:20 PM   #31
CadCaman
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 72
Tito, here's an update:

4.0 head is on and I am waiting for my new head bolts/studs.
Clifford intake is mounted
Exhaust manifold is mounted
Holley 0-8007 arrived today.
Lokar kickdown apparatus arrived today.

I need a big favor from you please.

I see the carb hook-up like this:
Fuel line hooked up, PCV valve hooked up, Vacuum advance from HEI hooked up, Constant 12 volt (with key on) hooked to electric choke. It also says I need to hook up something called a "full manifold vacuum source" to air cleaner and or air pump diverter valve. This is probably a little hose from the little barb on the carb to the bottom of the air cleaner but is this common and do I need to buy a special air cleaner (or just modify one)?

The favor I need is if you could supply some pics of your carb hook up and the top of your valve cover and how they interact (if they do).

Thanks for everything Tito.

BTW do you run a fuel pressure regulator?

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Unread 03-05-2012, 09:45 PM   #32
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CadCaman View Post
Tito, here's an update:

I see the carb hook-up like this:
Fuel line hooked up, PCV valve hooked up, Vacuum advance from HEI hooked up, Constant 12 volt (with key on) hooked to electric choke. It also says I need to hook up something called a "full manifold vacuum source" to air cleaner and or air pump diverter valve. This is probably a little hose from the little barb on the carb to the bottom of the air cleaner but is this common and do I need to buy a special air cleaner (or just modify one)

BTW do you run a fuel pressure regulator?
Your carb hook ups sounds correct. Most HEI's are set up for manifold vacuum for the vac advance. that port on the 8007 is under the primary bowl pointed on an angle. the port on the side of the primary metering block is a ported vacuum source. you should not have to worry about any AIR pump or it's diverter valve you won't be hooking it up anyway.

yes i run a fuel regulator i set it at 5.5 psi. in the photo of my fuel pump and reg. The fitting on the rear side of the regulator is a schrader valve to hook up my test gauge.

Here are some photos for you i have some more if you need them just pm me.
fpump-030512-2-.jpg   258-030512-1-.jpg   258-030512-3-.jpg   258-030512-4-.jpg   258-030512-5-.jpg  

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Unread 03-21-2012, 04:07 PM   #33
CadCaman
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Posts: 72
4.2 Swap is done and .....

I just got my Jeep back from the muffler shop with the last step of the custom exhaust done and I am thrilled with the revisions I made. Here's a recap of what I did.

I started with a 258 with stock intake and exhaust manifolds and a Weber 32/36 carb.

I swapped out the 4.2 head with a 4.0 head (casting #7120). I put on a clifford intake manifold, a stainless header, a Holley 390 cfm carbuerator, Lokar throttle and kickdown assemblies and a HEI.

I would strongly suggest these revisions to anyone. My Jeep is now powerful.

Thanks to everyone on here that helped with special thanks to Tito.

Next step, aluminum radiator with electric fan and a serpentine system. Anyone have any thoughts on these upgrades please let me know.

Anyone on the fence about the head swap please let me assure you it is easy enough to do and well worth it.
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Unread 03-21-2012, 10:23 PM   #34
WillyC24
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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@titomars - would you be able to tel me which part numbers you used for your fuel regulator, fuel pump, and kick down? Your setup is beautiful and I'm thinking along the same lines....
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Unread 03-21-2012, 10:32 PM   #35
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyC24 View Post
@titomars - would you be able to tel me which part numbers you used for your fuel regulator, fuel pump, and kick down? Your setup is beautiful and I'm thinking along the same lines....
Sure thing, the pump is a Holley #12-801-1 and the regulator is a Holley #12-803.
i have a 5 speed no kick down, but the original poster is using a Lokar kit I believe.
thank you for the compliment. I can't wait till next month when I repaint the engine compartment to finish of under the hood.
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Unread 03-21-2012, 10:38 PM   #36
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CadCaman View Post
I just got my Jeep back from the muffler shop with the last step of the custom exhaust done and I am thrilled with the revisions I made. Here's a recap of what I did.

I started with a 258 with stock intake and exhaust manifolds and a Weber 32/36 carb.

I swapped out the 4.2 head with a 4.0 head (casting #7120). I put on a clifford intake manifold, a stainless header, a Holley 390 cfm carbuerator, Lokar throttle and kickdown assemblies and a HEI.

I would strongly suggest these revisions to anyone. My Jeep is now powerful.

Thanks to everyone on here that helped with special thanks to Tito.

Next step, aluminum radiator with electric fan and a serpentine system. Anyone have any thoughts on these upgrades please let me know.

Anyone on the fence about the head swap please let me assure you it is easy enough to do and well worth it.
Great news !! glad you are happy with the "upgrade". After i did mine i could swear I added 6 more cylinders to my engine. but then I did a bit more than you did. I was impressed, and I have built so many engines that it's hard to impress myself.
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Unread 03-22-2012, 09:51 AM   #37
WillyC24
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Thanks @titomars. Another noob question...using the electric fuel pump means I should just block off the traditional spot on the engine body where the mechanical pump goes, right? Do you have pics of the passenger side of your engine?
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Unread 03-22-2012, 01:35 PM   #38
james04si
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyC24 View Post
Thanks @titomars. Another noob question...using the electric fuel pump means I should just block off the traditional spot on the engine body where the mechanical pump goes, right? Do you have pics of the passenger side of your engine?
that is correct. You can just cut and drill your own blockoff plate out of steel or aluminum and put it on in place of your mechanical fuel pump. Here is what the passanger side of mine looks like with a blockoff plate that came with my howell fuel injection.

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Unread 03-22-2012, 06:25 PM   #39
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyC24 View Post
Thanks @titomars. Another noob question...using the electric fuel pump means I should just block off the traditional spot on the engine body where the mechanical pump goes, right? Do you have pics of the passenger side of your engine?
Yes. Any of the commercial 2 bolt block off plates work. Except the long Ford Cleveland style.
The first photo was on the stand. 2nd during the install
hybrid-258-4-.jpg   hybrid-258-092411-10-.jpg  
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Unread 03-26-2012, 12:24 PM   #40
CadCaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82CJ_Chemist View Post
Thanks for the thread cadCaman. Makes me a little less nervous about a 4.0 head conversion. Need move it up in the timeline a bit. Be interested to know how you like the conversion.
Chemist, I strongly suggest this swap it was simple enough and what a difference.

Jeff
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Unread 03-26-2012, 01:35 PM   #41
82CJ_Chemist
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Thanks Jeff!!

I have this thread bookmarked so I can follow it when i get ready for the swap. Working on gears (have stock 2.73s) and lift currently...so the 4.0 head swap will have to wait a bit. I will post a thread maybe when i do it!!
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Unread 03-26-2012, 08:43 PM   #42
WillyC24
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Thanks, @Tito!
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Unread 04-21-2012, 04:15 PM   #43
WillyC24
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@tito - I'm going with the fuel pump and regulator, per your sweet setup. I have a few questions I was hoping to seek your help with:

1) It looks like the pump is mounted by the passenger rear tire on the frame, back close to the fuel tank. Is this correct?
2) Do you happen to have a specific list of parts (valves, couplings, adapters, etc.) to mate all of the lines and allow for gauge readings?
3) What is the best way to custom-fabricate those hard fuel lines? Are they just like brake lines, with a flare tool?
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Unread 04-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #44
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyC24 View Post
@tito - I'm going with the fuel pump and regulator, per your sweet setup. I have a few questions I was hoping to seek your help with:

1) It looks like the pump is mounted by the passenger rear tire on the frame, back close to the fuel tank. Is this correct?
2) Do you happen to have a specific list of parts (valves, couplings, adapters, etc.) to mate all of the lines and allow for gauge readings?
3) What is the best way to custom-fabricate those hard fuel lines? Are they just like brake lines, with a flare tool?
Thanks
1.) Yes the pump is mounted on the right frame rail just above the rear front spring hanger. I choose this spot as the most sanitary place to put it. Also I wanted it below the tank.

2.) Fuel pump Holley # 12-801-1, Holley Regulator #12-803, You will need 4 brass reducer bushings 3/8 to 1/4 pipe and 1 reducer bushing 3/8 to 1/8 pipe. You will need 1, 45 deg 3/8 male to 3/8 female fitting. You will need 4 standard flare fittings 1/4 inch pipe to 5/16 female flare.
You will need a length of 5/16 steel universal brake line mine worked out to be about 8 inches. I buy the 30 inch ones myself i used a cut off from one. The line comes with 2 nuts you will need 2 more for the existing line. last you need a 1/8 pipe by #4 SAE schrader valve and cap used in auto A/C systems. I believe its a 4 Seasons # 59183. The easiest place to find this would probably be in the heavy truck/bus lines. Once you have this any A/C low side gauge with hose makes a great pressure vacuum gauge.

3.) I bend my tubing by hand. and double flare as needed. when fitting to 2 points I add 1/2 inch for the depth into the fitting. I always add a bit over 1/4 inch for flaring both ends and they come out perfect.

I hope all this helps you
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
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**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
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1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 02-10-2013, 10:43 PM   #45
cj5huntingrig
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Great Thread and Pics!
Thanks, Evan
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