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Unread 05-07-2012, 10:05 AM   #91
Renegade82
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Well I think if it needed any gears replaced or something fixed; I wouldn't have attempted that. It would have been outsourced. I don't have a press anyways.
I can't quite check the Tcase off yet. I forgot I was going to replace the speedo gear to a more correct one, so I figured I better take the old one out to see what all I'll need to order. Theres only one bolt holding it in and wouldn't you know it had to snap off about an 1/8" below the head!!! So I had to drill that out, starting with a 1/16" bit and going up in 1/64" increments, trying an easy out between bit changes. I went thru a #1,#2,and #3 easy out and none would budge it. It corroded together well. So I ended up tapping it to a 1/4"x20 hole and put a new bolt in it. I had to have tapped right thru the remaining metric bolt threads that seized so good in the old hole.
So I just ordered a new gear and O ring for it, THEN I should be able to check it off!

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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
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Unread 05-22-2012, 03:09 PM   #92
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My speedo gear came in the mail. I got a 30 tooth to correct things, the factory one was a 25T driven gear with a 13T drive gear. When I went to install the housing back in the t-case, which is marked 21-25, it wouldn’t allow me to turn it to index on the next lock groove. After some research I come to find out the housing is similar to the 2.73 diff. carrier. It only fits those and anything else needs a different carrier. Well the housing is the same way. They make two, one for 21-25 tooth gear group and one that fits the other 3 groups 26-31, 32-38, & 39-45 tooth. You just rotate the housing to the correct lock groove’s. So I had to wait another 5 days for my housing. I got a used one from transmissioncenter.net for $13, the same place I got the speedo gear and new o-ring.
You can see in the pic how the threaded nipple is more centered on the housing due to larger gears keeping it further from the drive gear.
2377

So with that issue resolved the t-case is done and can now be checked off the list! Note my custom t-case hauler.
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2387

With the drivetrain parts out of the way I’m going to attack the body now. It’s got lots of cancer in need of some curing! I’m going to start on the rocker panel areas for two reasons. So that I can keep things square and more rigid when moving the tub around; and because the floor panels have a side lip that will attach to it so I need it in the correct place in order to put the floor in the right place. One of the issues I’m also dealing with is having double panels on the sides from having covered the original body in 96 with repair panels. The original body has a good bit more rust on it now from water infiltration. The top and side edges were welded and the bottom edge was just tacked but it was sealed with silicone caulking. But it found ways in, such as under the P decal in JEEP. Or at the side support, down by where the seatbelt attaches. The floor there was gone and you can see the side cancer was cut out before it was covered over in 96. You can still see some of the Zero-Rust I painted the panels with back then, look for the darker brown spots. Remember, your looking at the tub with the bottom facing up.
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jeeprestore5

I’ve taken some of the really bad floor out just for access. I have 18” wide floor pans that run from the firewall to the step up but I’m not going to use the entire thing so I don’t have to locate new seat bolts or separate all the old floor from the outer or transverse supports. You can see where I put a black marker line around the curve of the rear floor and then across the outer support about 1 ½” to the cut line. That will go forward to right before it dips down for the front floor. Then I’ll use the full 18” till just shy of the firewall.
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As for the side then I had a piece of 16ga. bent for each side, 5 ½” w/ a ½” lip on the bottom, to replace the old and the older existing rocker panels. When I cut them out the inner most piece didn’t get totally cut thru in spots and they separated, exposing my original Renegade stripping. What’s left of it anyways.
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Notice how the rusted “P” let the moisture in. You can also see the outline of the end of the replacement panel. They didn’t have the logo embossed in them so I didn’t use the part that went to the seams. I cut it below the logo and feathered it with bondo back to the original metal.
Then a view from the inside to see what had to be removed.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/

Last edited by Renegade82; 05-29-2012 at 12:10 PM.. Reason: wrong website addy
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Unread 05-22-2012, 03:16 PM   #93
Jim1611
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Transfer case really looks nice. I like the two tone look. You've got allotof work ahead of you on the tub. Sounds like you have a plan though.
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Unread 05-22-2012, 05:39 PM   #94
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Transfer case looks good but you sure do have your work cut out for yourself with that rusty tub. Are you sure it is worth it to repair instead of opting out for a replacement tub from a YJ or Repli-Tub? Mine was worse so it was a no-brainier to get a new tub instead of the labor work involved to repair.
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Unread 05-22-2012, 09:24 PM   #95
Renegade82
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Thanks guys. Back in 1996 when I redid the body I said in another 12 or so years when my son is old enough to help, we'll put a fiberglass body on it. Well here it is 16 years later and the time has come. Unfortunately he has no interest in helping me, which is probably good because I work best by myself.
But when thinking about this project last year and putting some costs together, the cost of either a new fbgls. or metal tub just made the whole project cost prohibitive mainly because I also needed a frame more than a new body. I would have had 5-6 grand in just those two components. But I can buy new body parts to repair what I have for much, much less. It would cost me more time and labor but that's not such a bad thing. I'm the type that has to be doing something, tinkering, building, whatever. I guess I crave that sense of accomplishment. I would rather make something than buy it already made. I have most of the tools I need and the knowledge and ability I can learn. It may take longer but I'm in no real hurry other than my desire to drive the finished product. That Jeep has been part of me for just over 30 years now and it's not going anywhere.

My buddy comes by the garage now and then and he always says "just scrap this and go get a fiberglass body". I say as soon as he hands me a signed blank check I'll do that! I'm also the type that gets motivated to do something when somebody tells me I can't do it. It stokes the fire.

Yep it's a lot of work. And frankly a bit intimidating, usually compounded by my over thinking of things. But at this point.... it's a bit too late! I do have a plan though, hopefully it's not too flawed!
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 05-24-2012, 04:25 AM   #96
maddanecj7
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i am in the same situation... lots of rust to fix..not much money..
and the shipment over the atlantic doesent help..
but your and other jeepers threads helps me to keep working..just look at mine and your is in perfect shape
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Unread 05-24-2012, 07:01 AM   #97
Renegade82
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Boy you ain't kiddin'! Did they float that overseas? Looks like it was dipped.... in a tank of liquid rust. It looks solid though, just missing any paint. The floor looks good along the side anyways and I see some weld scars from being redone at one point. But your right, a lot of motivation can be gotten from just perusing this site and some of it's builds.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 05-24-2012, 08:53 AM   #98
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My jaw would virtually hit the ground once I saw my rusty tub!! I hope Mad Dane is not an omen?

All things considered, your tub may be easier to fix than Rene82's.

Good luck- BOTH of you.
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 05-24-2012, 01:23 PM   #99
maddanecj7
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The reason for All the surface rust is because is was compleatly sandblasted ,because one of my employees's Said that he could fix the body....if it was blasted and Ready to weld on.
It was perfectly blasted and then i found out that he had cut one rearcorner and both sides out.. Left it outside in the rain and snow for 2-3 months.
he forgot to weld supports to the body before cutting...
I think he got in overhishead......So now i have to fix it....

A used yj Will cost me App 2000$ and that Will still need some work.
A new body Will set be back 4-5000$ with taxes and freight.
And i Will rather spend that money on a gm 4.8 gen III swap.

So now i am looking thru All the threads with rebuilds to gather knowledge
How to weld and fix bodypanels... Advise is appreciated !!
I experimented with the welder some weeks ago... Not easy..
And i Will have to find a Way to make sure the body is straight before welding in new panels.


I Will not hijack this thread but start my own to i hope you All Will help with
Suggestions and ideas.
thx
Kasper
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Unread 06-02-2012, 01:40 PM   #100
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I'm pretty sure there's a pretty decent YJ tub either in the classifieds here or on CL in PA. I'd go get that and use what's left of your CJ body to make the necessary changes to the YJ body to make it CJ. It will be a lot less work, will net you a better finished product, and will stay rust free again for much longer I feel. I don't care how much POR you put on that CJ body will rust again.

Yup http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/93-yj-tub-1374242/

And this one looks even better, also in PA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangle...97d96c&vxp=mtr
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Unread 06-04-2012, 11:29 AM   #101
Renegade82
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That is tempting, especially the ebay one. But your just fueling the fire for me to make mine whole again. I'm currently frustrated with my welder right now so lessening the amount I need to do sounds really good. But that "sense of accomplishment" factor would go downhill if I were to buy a wrangler tub.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 06-04-2012, 10:29 PM   #102
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
That is tempting, especially the ebay one. But your just fueling the fire for me to make mine whole again. I'm currently frustrated with my welder right now so lessening the amount I need to do sounds really good. But that "sense of accomplishment" factor would go downhill if I were to buy a wrangler tub.
Still not understanding the logic in trying to patch a rusty tub. There's so many hidden areas that will continue to rust you'll be right back in the same boat in a couple years unless you separate every single weld on it and sandblast the whole thing then jig it all up and hope it's straight when you're done welding it back together. You've already bit the bullet on the frame since that was too far gone to save. I understand wanting to keep as much of your original CJ as possible as well.

Remember with the YJ tub you'll be taking the defroster duct section off your original tub, you'll be using your original tailgate, hood, rollbar, dash, wiring, other various hardware and driveline. That's the main "heart" of your Jeep in my eyes and you won't be chasing hidden rust.

When I did my tub swap the only regret I have is the dash. I used the YJ dash and stood my original CJ dash in the corner of the garage where it collected dust for a few years. Then 2007 came along and I wanted to make it "whole" again but the dash is gone. I don't know if I threw it out or if I gave it away. But I'm over that now and simply spent too much money getting an OEM Laredo dash, clock, tach, gauges etc.

Probably the most awkward thing I'll be doing when I go to complete making my Jeep all CJ again is the key cylinders. I'll be taking new replacements to a locksmith to be taken apart and set to the code of my original keys and getting new OEM AMC/Jeep key blanks cut to code and not just duplicated. I have two new sets of blanks to do this with. I guess that is what will make me feel like I still have the same Jeep that I bought in 1992.

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Unread 06-05-2012, 09:04 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post
Still not understanding the logic in trying to patch a rusty tub. There's so many hidden areas that will continue to rust you'll be right back in the same boat in a couple years unless you separate every single weld on it and sandblast the whole thing then jig it all up and hope it's straight when you're done welding it back together. You've already bit the bullet on the frame since that was too far gone to save. I understand wanting to keep as much of your original CJ as possible as well.
Those same hidden areas would be on a yj tub as well. Actually more since the entire floor to side rocker panel will be a new seam.
Nothing will stop rust forever but by eliminating 2 things it has to have, air and moisture, you can go a long ways towards curbing the vast majority of it. I plan on sealing every square inch with POR-15, Internal Frame spray, or seam sealer. And that's after cutting out any heavy rust and etching the tub.
Besides, I'm not going for "new" here.... I'm shooting for "like new". It'll be the closest it's been to new in 20+ years.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 06-05-2012, 05:49 PM   #104
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Wow... look at that tub. Good grief!!
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Unread 06-06-2012, 03:11 PM   #105
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I’ve been chuggin’ away at the body some and getting frustrated with my welder at the same time. For some reason it seems to be burning thru a lot easier than it used to. I think part of it is the wire speed is just too fast and being that I’m welding on the edge of the metal, next to the gap between the new 16ga. and the old 18 or 20ga, it just wants to poke the wire thru the molten puddle. And I’m just using quick bursts of about 1 ½ seconds. It’s frustrating! So I’m thinking about getting another welder and retire this 17+ year old Chicago Electric EasyMIG and get one I can adjust the wire speed, use more than 2 heat settings and has a tank for shielding gas. Then I can use .023 wire also. I can weld thicker stuff like 16ga and larger with it okay but me not being a welder I can’t dial it in. And I’ve never used a good mig to know what I’m missing. Is it more me or the mig?? (since the mig can’t talk I’m blaming him!) There was a welding class at the local votech school this past winter and they had taken my name and number last fall so they could call me when it was scheduled. Well they lost that post-it when it came time, so now I have to wait till fall.

Anyways, I cut the side rocker to length and have that welded in. I flanged the existing metal at the front to allow the thicker new metal to set back in some, that way it won’t take as much filler to flush the surface back out. Theres a good bit of bondo there from last time(which I'll remove) because I stopped the panels right below the Jeep logo and then feathered it down the thickness of the new panel metal. I then punched 3 holes in the flange to spot weld it in place.
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I flushed the outside of the rocker up and tacked it from the outside to keep it in place. Then I did most of the welding from the inside where it’s not as visible.
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One thing I’ve been pondering for a while now is how to get my tailgate bolt mounting plate back in place and still adjustable. The capture cage on one of them was pretty well rusted away and when I removed the 2 bolts it fell away. Three of the 4 sides of the cage are still partially there which allows me to locate it in the right spot, but I had to have a way to keep it there, loosely. So I drilled 2 partial 3/16” holes in the back of the plate. Then I drilled 2- 1/8” holes across from it thru the side of what I refer to as the rear body mounts box beam (of which my ends are completely gone). I pushed a 1/8” steel rod thru the holes, set the plate in position, then pushed the rods into the partial holes and welded it in place and cut off the excess.
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I had to address that dilemma before I could repair the ends of that box beam where the body mounts were at. Theres also some rust on the one side in the outer panel that needed cut out and patched. And as I said before I’m working with a double layer of body sheetmetal from the rocker fronts to the tailgate opening, and there happens to be an air space here between the original body and the new panels. So to make it solid there I need to add a spacer of metal and I’ll end up with 3 layers of 16ga and one of 18ga, which includes the 16ga. “C” channel I made for the mount.
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These are the “C” channels I’m fabbing for the end mounts. I’ll close off the front and the end once I make a captured nut and cage for in it.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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