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Oconee Off-Road Now Offering Zone Off-Road Products!!!RIGID LED Light Blowout Sale - All Sizes, All Series, all USA Standard Chromoly Front Axle Shaft Kits with Dana 30 4

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Unread 09-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #286
Renegade82
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Thanks. I don't know about the skill level. Welding sheetmetal is a bit different than welding heavier metals. It's pretty much a connect the dots approach so you don't get much practice at "laying down a bead" so to speak. The heavier metal welding has been limited. But I am better then I was 2 years ago!

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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Thanks Scott. I figured rather than run wires thru the cab and then back out I'd just run them straight back. Plus I could do it now and not have to wait. Sadly, I'm to the point where I must get back to the body to be able to make any progress. And that means the weather must co-operate with me. (or the "large garage fairy" pays me a visit and leaves me a surprise)
If your garage fairy is anything like our cat then that surprise isn't going to turn out all that well! I think you need to tough it out!
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 10-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #288
Renegade82
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Well I think I have a plan for space constraints. I POR'd the firewall last weekend so now I could set the tub on the frame and tape plastic around the bottom edge and up around the cowling (firewall side) and that would cover the frame, drivetrain, and engine; allowing me to still sand and paint the exterior and interior without getting it all over the finished portions of the project. And I could roll it in and out of the garage. It will also allow me to work on the rollcage over the winter so it's ready for paint with all the rest come spring. My hood, fenders, and grille should be done at the soda blasters today or tomorrow so I'll need to get them covered with some por before winter. My doors are still a lingering thorn that I'll have to address before long.
At that point then it will all be wrapped in POR and I'll then just have to spray on their self etching primer to be able to add any filler and then the final primer and paint. I still have to find a painter who has a place to spray it.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-03-2013, 10:30 PM   #289
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Good plan, Rene. I didn't know POR had a complete paint system. I really like that stuff. I didn't get to finish the can before it set up, however.
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 10-04-2013, 07:42 AM   #290
Renegade82
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Well I wouldn't say it's a "complete" paint system. It's more of a base coat system that I'm going for. After prepping the bare metal, on goes the POR-15 base product. At that point it needs a top coat or it's next layer applied before it's totally dry. Well that doesn't work within my time constraints or with what parts I have ready to paint. So once it's dry / cured you need to use their self-etching primer to be able to bond to the existing cured POR base. That gives me the time break I need. So I can paint the areas as I get it done and then I'm in a better position to load up a paint gun and spray the majority with the primer, which comes in in pints, quarts, and gallons. I have a 15oz rattle can of it that I've been using for smaller stuff but at roughly $28 a can I'd rather use an hvlp gun and spray it. I was going to use their Tie-Coat product, which does the same thing, but you need to either apply that while the base is still drying or scuff it up first if it's already dry. That's not a chore I want to do so the self-etching route works better for my situation.
Once that primer is on then that's as far as the POR products go. I'll fill with a fiberglass reinforced, water and rustproof filler like Dynaglass or Evercoat's Kitty Hair and then coat that with a primer product from Dupont since I'm going to use Dupont's Chromabase / ChromaClear for the finish paint. The sky blue I put on the underside is the finish coat and that was a POR product also, originally made for on boat hulls and resists saltwater. I figured that would be a good choice for the wintertime roads of Pa.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-04-2013, 01:39 PM   #291
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Is any shop/garage ever really big enough? My shop stays full and was a pain when Jeep parts were everywhere. All I had was little pig trails to walk down. Bumped something and said a cuss word many times navigating through them. I bet it felt good to roll it outside into the sunshine. I know you're proud to have a rolling chassis. It looks really great Rene.
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Unread 10-04-2013, 03:08 PM   #292
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No probably not. We'd just find more stuff to fill it with and then be back to square one! But it'd be fun tryin'! Yes it felt great to roll it out into the natural light. It's a milestone in the project that's for sure.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-15-2013, 11:59 AM   #293
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After bringing home my new project last night and looking over the tub, i decided to read through your thread again for some bodywork inspiration. It worked! Looks like this time, instead of extensive frame repairs, I'm going to be doing extensive tub repairs. Maybe you'll have yours done by the time I'm done with my second?? Just kidding
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Unread 10-15-2013, 02:01 PM   #294
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Good, glad I could help in some way. I seen you had closed the deal on another one. I seen some rust on the sides above the rear wheels, how's the floor in it? Overall, from the pics it didn't look too awful bad. That hatch is probably shot. If it is and you put a fiberglass hatch back on it, don't use those original shocks. They're too strong and will pull the nutserts right out of the fglass.
My latest goal is May. Better get a move on.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-16-2013, 06:10 AM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Good, glad I could help in some way. I seen you had closed the deal on another one. I seen some rust on the sides above the rear wheels, how's the floor in it? Overall, from the pics it didn't look too awful bad. That hatch is probably shot. If it is and you put a fiberglass hatch back on it, don't use those original shocks. They're too strong and will pull the nutserts right out of the fglass.
My latest goal is May. Better get a move on.
The floor needs patched in two spots, and I got supplies on the way for that. While shopping for replacement sheet metal at Morris 4x4, I noticed they had replacement inner wheelwells for CJ7's, as well as outer. Not really knowing what I needed yet, I just ordered an inner wheel well. But after looking at it last night, I confirmed what I thought was true, there's only one piece. No inner and outer. That's got me slightly confused! What I really need is the side of the tub with the lip that bends in around the radius, but I'm not spending $400 on the whole side when I only need around the wheel.

I know you shaped alot of sheet metal for your tub, do you think I could just get some flat sheet metal, cut the radius out plus about a half inch for that lip, then bend it down around the radius? Fender flare will cover it, so it doesn't have to be beautiful....The rust around the left rear wheel is just surface rust except for a fifty cent piece size hole near the bottom, so I shouldn't have to replace that whole side.

Oh, and my rear hatch is actually in good shape, it's got duct tape on it to keep the rain out because the seal is dry rotted. Not an issue since it lives in a garage now!
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Unread 10-16-2013, 11:43 AM   #296
Renegade82
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I wondered, cause I used metal foil tape in a similar way years ago when my hatch was gettin' pretty bad.

If I wasn't replacing the whole side with a new panel then yes, I would probably make a template out of plywood, notch the metal's extra 1/2" of lip every 3" or so, and then bend the lip down over the template with a body hammer. Then I'd cut a 1/2" strip of metal and bend it around the radius on the topside of the lip, then weld it from the bottomside at each notch and grind smooth. And if your really confident of your welding you could just omit the lip and notching, cut the strip for the lip and then weld them together to form the bend of the lip.
I'm going that direction only because I'd think the metal, and I'm thinking 18 ga., wouldn't bend so easily with a hammer and wood backer without making a lot of waves and divits in the panel. And heat would probably warp it. But I would surely try it first to see. Notching it gives you shorter sections (more straight) that are easier to bend 90 deg than to bend 90degrees plus a radius that will fight you.

I'm thinking someone repaired their sides with metal but I don't recall who at the moment, and now it will bug me so I'll find it for you if I can. After a while all these builds can blend together!
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-16-2013, 12:11 PM   #297
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I was thinking the exact same thing with the plywood template, but I found replacement panels already stamped to fit in from Classic Enterprises, so I ordered one. So now when it comes, I'll hold it in place, trace it out on my tub and cut out whats left so I can slide it in and weld it up.
capture.jpg

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Unread 10-16-2013, 01:14 PM   #298
Renegade82
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Perfect. That saves some time! I was thinking it was Adam's (acgcoug) 79 CJ5 thread but I didn't see it. Maybe it was jatepper? Someone somewhere did it.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-17-2013, 06:15 AM   #299
hasselback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Perfect. That saves some time! I was thinking it was Adam's (acgcoug) 79 CJ5 thread but I didn't see it. Maybe it was jatepper? Someone somewhere did it.
Well, I'll be doing it soon. I'll be sure to take lots of pics!
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Unread 10-29-2013, 02:57 PM   #300
Renegade82
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Just a few pics for an update. Not much has taken place lately other than some sanding, painting, and a little sandblasting. Since the summer weather is over I have to seize the opportunity to paint when I can so I’m doing it a little at a time to get this tub finished. I have to say that painting has been the biggest stumbling block all along the way. While POR is great stuff the prepping can really drag things along. I try to clean and etch the areas the night before I know there’ll be some warm weather the next day (sat. or sun.) so I have time to apply 2 coats.
This is hard to see but it’s wet with the etching solution which I sprayed on and then after setting a while I wiped several times with a wet sponge that I kept rinsing. Kind of hard to do the whole hose thing without making a mess or getting water where you don’t want it.
4872
4874
4883

I’ve also been chipping away at sanding the old paint from the inside of the tub. I’m not going to be POR’ing the entire inside, just the horizontal surfaces and the new metal, which is almost the entire thing. I want to do the inside of the rocker before I flip it over, that way the POR can seep into the weld line of the new rocker metal.
4881
4951
4952

And while I’m at this point I figured it would be the right time to enlarge the blower motor hole for the upgrade and then I can paint the hole. I used a 3 ½” bimetal hole saw and made a template in some plywood. Then I was able to clamp it fast to the tub to guide my drill.
4921
4922
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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