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Unread 10-24-2011, 08:40 PM   #16
WNC-84CJ7
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I am in for this one. Great back story. We be rust bustin together. Semper Fi.

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Unread 10-24-2011, 10:24 PM   #17
mvigo
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All in! Good luck and I too, enjoyed the background story...
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Unread 10-24-2011, 10:49 PM   #18
MrBeast
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that is an awesome story! I am subscribed.

I want to go with a TDK frame too. I am very impressed with them.
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/1980-cj7-first-jeep-build-1243620/"]80 CJ7 "The Kraken" - a project 25 years in the making[/URL] AMC 304 V8, NV4500, Dana 300, Dana 44, 9 inch, M.O.R.E. SRS, YJ tub.

AT3 US Navy 1999-2003

[B][SIZE="3"] Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt[/SIZE][/B]
[SIZE="1"](When catapults are outlawed, only outlaws will have catapults)[/SIZE]
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Unread 10-25-2011, 04:36 AM   #19
TxJeeper20
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I am just Partial to 82 CJs ( dont know why) and anyone who serves . meets both I am in.

Having my 5 rebuilt by a shop while I am deployed just wish I could have bought mine new but i was born 10 years to late Keep up the pictures AND the stories
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Unread 10-25-2011, 07:51 AM   #20
dirt_dobber
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I'm diggin' this thread
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Unread 10-25-2011, 08:13 AM   #21
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
I was at the All Breeds Jeep show in July and I recognized his piece of art immediately. So I went over and said "you must be Keith", and of course he was. That thing looks just as good in person.
Now I remember you. Can't quite picture the face but I do know that you were talking about your 82' Renegade and how you were an an original owner too. There is not many of us original owners of Jeep CJ's around so that is a privilege you earned and no one can take from you.

Subscribed to your thread.
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Unread 10-25-2011, 08:43 AM   #22
danheit
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Fantastic story! I also have bought several Jeeps from Fowler! I still live here in good ole Myrtle Beach though, so my Jeeps don't tend to rust as badly. Can't wait to see this one finish out.
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Unread 10-25-2011, 08:48 AM   #23
Renegade82
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That's cool to hear. I don't remember the sales guys name (I can find out) but it seems it might have been Jesse something. That place has sure changed since back then. West of 17 and North M.B. has just exploded.

Something else I could do while waiting to move it into the garage was to do some fitting of the roll cages front hoop. I got a 2 pc hoop from Extreme Custom Parts, along with a dash bar and 2 spreader tubes to go back to the B pillar. All are 2”x.125” hrew except the dash bar which is 1.5”. It came with a sleeve and two foot plates of 3/16”. I plan on adding some pieces to it when I get to the welding stage, like 2 center spreaders and some grab handles to act as gussets, and some gussets as well. A friend got a plasma table and is starting a business, so I can get some custom ones made. The tubes come a couple inches long so that you can cut them to fit your particular Jeep, then they join at the center with a sleeve that fits inside the two.
The first thing I had to do was cut into my still pristine dash pad. There’s not a crack in it. I guess that’s a testament to Armor-All. But mine isn’t recessed at the ends like the newer ones were and I wanted to keep it as close to the dash as I could. So after checking the door clearance for it’s vertical position I made my mark and with a sterile scalpel I proceeded to slice open the vinyl patient. I wanted to be able to fold the vinyl into the hole so it didn’t look so cheesy so I only cut to the fold line. Then I cut out the foam behind it in a cylindrical shape the diameter of the tube.
1072

This stuff almost has a life of it’s own. I used a heat gun to soften the vinyl so as not to tear or crack it and depending on it’s temperature it opens and closes like one of those exotic flowers.
1085

So I got it embedded half way into the pad and I kept the rake the same as the windshield. I’d like it to be closer but I’d also have issues with the windshield knob. Not that I put it down to ride with but if I need it put down I don’t want to have to remove the roll cage to do it. I may have to shorten the bolt on the knob as it is. Plus theres only about 1 half inch left of clearance before it hits the chicken bar on the passenger side.
1141

Got the other side done too and they both clear the door when closed. Having to open the door to roll down the window is just going to have to be a necessary evil I guess. At least till I figure out something. I did solicit ideas in a thread a while back. I figure I'll have to slice my glove box door in two, just to the right of the hinge, then figure a way to mount the cut piece on permanent. Maybe some artwork to blend in the seperation of the two.
1138
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Unread 10-25-2011, 09:21 AM   #24
SKT
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Count me in on this one for sure!

Great back story too!

Please continue to keep us posted with plenty of pictures and updates!



.
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Unread 10-25-2011, 09:26 AM   #25
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
That's cool to hear. I don't remember the sales guys name (I can find out) but it seems it might have been Jesse something. That place has sure changed since back then. West of 17 and North M.B. has just exploded.

Something else I could do while waiting to move it into the garage was to do some fitting of the roll cages front hoop. I got a 2 pc hoop from Extreme Custom Parts, along with a dash bar and 2 spreader tubes to go back to the B pillar. All are 2Ēx.125Ē hrew except the dash bar which is 1.5Ē. It came with a sleeve and two foot plates of 3/16Ē. I plan on adding some pieces to it when I get to the welding stage, like 2 center spreaders and some grab handles to act as gussets, and some gussets as well. A friend got a plasma table and is starting a business, so I can get some custom ones made.
The first thing I had to do was cut into my still pristine dash pad. Thereís not a crack in it. I guess thatís a testament to Armor-All. But mine isnít recessed at the ends like the newer ones were and I wanted to keep it as close to the dash as I could. So after checking the door clearance for itís vertical position I made my mark and with a sterile scalpel I proceeded to slice open the vinyl patient. I wanted to be able to fold the vinyl into the hole so it didnít look so cheesy so I only cut to the fold line. Then I cut out the foam behind it in a cylindrical shape the diameter of the tube.


This stuff almost has a life of itís own. I used a heat gun to soften the vinyl so as not to tear or crack it and depending on itís temperature it opens and closes like one of those exotic flowers.


So I got it embedded half way into the pad and I kept the rake the same as the windshield. Iíd like it to be closer but Iíd also have issues with the windshield knob. Not that I put it down to ride with but if I need it put down I donít want to have to remove the roll cage to do it. I may have to shorten the bolt on the knob as it is. Plus theres only about 1 half inch left of clearance before it hits the chicken bar on the passenger side.


Got the other side done too and they both clear the door when closed. Having to open the door to roll down the window is just going to have to be a necessary evil I guess. At least till I figure out something. I did solicit ideas in a thread a while back. I figure I'll have to slice my glove box door in two, just to the right of the hinge, then figure a way to mount the cut piece on permanent. Maybe some artwork to blend in the seperation of the two.
Not to change the direction of your thread, but I will for a moment. How do you imbed photos into a thread.

If you can be precise I would appreciate it as I am not computer literate.
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Unread 10-25-2011, 09:58 AM   #26
Renegade82
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You have to use a picture hosting site (which are free) like photobucket.com or I use ImageShack.com. You upload your pics there (once you make an account) and then it provides you a link url to it that you copy and paste into the window that pops up when you click the "insert image" button on here.
If you need more detail let me know.
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-27-2011, 10:13 AM   #27
Renegade82
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Well we had some unusually hot days this weekend for being October, so I took advantage of them to do my frame painting. (actually it was 3 weekends ago, just now posting it) I had wiped the frame down shortly after I got it with CRCís LectraClean to get the dirt and oil off of it so I wasnít getting black every time I touched it, so it wasnít too bad. I used PORís Marine Clean in a spray bottle, diluted 5:1 with hot water. The frame was setting in the sun so I did it a short section at a time, spraying it good, setting a few minutes, then hosing it off. Then I went around again, this time using a brush; spraying, brushing, then another spray, then a rinse. All the while trying my best to not get much water in any of the frames holes. Then I left it set in the sun for a while to dry. After a bite to eat I set up some tarps for shade and then started the Metal Ready treatment, spraying that directly out of the bottle it came in. You have to spray it and keep it wet for 30 minutes, 10-20 for new bare metal but I let it on for 25 minutes. Then you hose that off and wipe it down with a wet rag, and then dry it the best you can. A couple towels and removing the shade tarps made it dry quick. I didnít get much flash rust but it would have been okay, as POR likes some rust. I put it back in the garage over night and then brought it out to paint the next day. This time the shade tarps and EZ Up was put up sooner.
1242
1243

I scooped some POR into a porcelain coffee mug, about 1/3 to Ĺ full, and painted out of that with a wide and a narrow foam brush. It went on very easy and Iíve never seen a paint of any type go on as far or as thin as this stuff. That one mug had enough to do both coats! I first had the frame belly up, doing all but the top edges (now facing down). I also had a small brush (Qtip would have worked) to get in the holes. It took roughly an hour and 15 to go around the whole frame. It said to let it dry till it had ďfinger dragĒ or was slightly tacky, usually 3-5 hours. Well 2 hours later it was like that so we flipped the frame over and I started my second coat, doing all that I missed (topside) and also recoating the sides again. This time I was much more generous with the brush dipping. Itís really runny stuff so you canít ďload up the brushĒ if you wanted to. After that coating I still had a bit left in the mug from the initial amount, so I went and did the bottoms of the rails again and the sides and any spot I missed. So it got about 2 Ĺ coats roughly.
1244
1251

So another 2 hours went by and it felt the same dryness as before, so out came the BlackCote topcoat that I was putting on it. It went on with about the same consistency as the POR but you had to keep track of where you left off at, as everything is black at this point. I went all over it top and bottom and then some. Then I left for about 3 Ĺ hours and when I got back it was totally dry to the touch, so we carried it back into the garage. 1247 1249
A side note: when putting on the topcoat of BlackCote, resist the urge to keep putting on ďa brush of paint here and a brush of paint thereĒ. The result is not a smooth continuous gloss but rather a streaked look where the paint below was already setting up and the foam brush made itís usual marks but the paint below was stiff enough to not let those marks flatten back out like fresh runny paint would do. But hey, itís a Jeep!
1063
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The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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Unread 10-28-2011, 12:07 AM   #28
MrBeast
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man it looks damn good. I am really wanting to see that frame come together. I really want to get one for mine. Possibly even a new aluminum tub.
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[I]"He used to be a pretty nice feller, now he's a welder"[/I]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/1980-cj7-first-jeep-build-1243620/"]80 CJ7 "The Kraken" - a project 25 years in the making[/URL] AMC 304 V8, NV4500, Dana 300, Dana 44, 9 inch, M.O.R.E. SRS, YJ tub.

AT3 US Navy 1999-2003

[B][SIZE="3"] Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt[/SIZE][/B]
[SIZE="1"](When catapults are outlawed, only outlaws will have catapults)[/SIZE]
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Unread 10-28-2011, 03:34 AM   #29
dan-cj7
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Will be watching closely as I am doing the same with my CJ - keep up the great posts.

I used the POR 15 on my frame and did fall into the trap of brush strokes in the topcoat. I won't be too noticeable, it is a 4X4 after all!
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Unread 10-28-2011, 08:17 AM   #30
Matt1981CJ7
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Man, cutting into that dash would have been hard for me, but it looks great!

This is going to be fun build to watch.

Matt
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