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Unread 09-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #1
o-lockhart85
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304 wont idle

i just replaced my sending unit in my 74 cj5 and at first it was choking and lurching, then it went to what seemed like it was only get half the fuel or someting was running but when i gave it gas it wouldnt rev up and now it will not idle without dying. runs perfect driving down the road but as soon as i slow down for something and it winds down to idle it dies almost immeditaly. im coasting to stoplights while cranking thr engine and it starts right up no problem, just wont idle. the new sending unit is different from my original one it had only one outlet tube and just one wire no ground. i looked everywere to find one like it but no luck even cj junk yards. got one from crown with new everything even the filter in the tank but it came with two outlet tubes i put a rubber hose on the one i wasnt using and blocked it with a bolt and sealed it with rtv. i was in a hurry at the end and didnt put the wires in to well but correct me if im wrong but that should only make my fuel gauge not work.
so in the end help! is the sending just not compadable, did i do something wrong, or did by putting a new part on just unleash the gremlin gods upon me.

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Unread 10-03-2013, 09:18 PM   #2
o-lockhart85
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if anyone cares it was the gremlins carb gasket has a hole in it and caused a super vacum leak
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Unread 10-04-2013, 12:52 AM   #3
Matt1981CJ7
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I'm glad you figured it out.

Matt
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Unread 10-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #4
LumpyGrits
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I was going to SWAG a 'sunk' carb float.
LG
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Unread 10-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #5
o-lockhart85
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it could be the carb has given my problems since i got it. the carb has run super rich since i got it just though that because the jeep came from kansas it wasent adjusted for the colorado altiude. i was told that the insane amount of rtv the po used to seal the plastic isulator that cracked didnt help either. who though a piece of plastic could cause so much trouble and be so hard to find.
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Unread 10-19-2013, 09:16 AM   #6
o-lockhart85
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got the plastic insulator plate in and put it on and no more vacum leaks woho!!!! ....now to get the flames to stop shooting out the top of the carb
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Unread 10-19-2013, 09:35 AM   #7
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o-lockhart85 View Post
got the plastic insulator plate in and put it on and no more vacum leaks woho!!!! ....now to get the flames to stop shooting out the top of the carb
That sounds like a firing order problem, or incorrect timing.

Good luck,

Matt
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Unread 10-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #8
o-lockhart85
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thats what a friend of mine said too, thanks matt for the response. always like more than one opinion and the fact that its the same makes it easier on me too.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 01:10 AM   #9
4350Insulator
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I bought a New billet aluminum Insulator for my 1977 j10 4350 MotorCraft Carburetor and OEM intake manifold with top and bottom gaskets from these guys and it works better than anything Jeep ever produced, However it was not cheap.
Building 5 Area 51 Calibration Specialist "B5A51@yahoo.com"
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Unread 11-02-2013, 08:16 PM   #10
o-lockhart85
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well it wasnt the timing that was checked and ok then i rebuilt the carb and it got better!!! now it runs for 15 sec. before shooting fuel and flames out the top
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Unread 11-02-2013, 08:30 PM   #11
1978CJ7Beast
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I originally thought this topic read "304 won't die". If that misread wasn't a good enough indicator, I'm having a lot of problems with my 304 right now. : )
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Unread 11-03-2013, 04:58 AM   #12
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o-lockhart85 View Post
well it wasnt the timing that was checked and ok then i rebuilt the carb and it got better!!! now it runs for 15 sec. before shooting fuel and flames out the top
Is still sounds like you either have a vacuum leak, the firing order is wrong, too much timing, or leaking intake valves.

Also, be aware, backfires thru the carb will often ruin the power valve on some carbs.

Matt
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Unread 11-03-2013, 03:47 PM   #13
o-lockhart85
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think its safe to say the timing and the vacum is good, but the valves was the next thing i was told to look at by my engine classroom instructor. also when i left my buddies shop were i was working on it he play with the carb a little bit and got it to run a lot better but only with the air cleaner completly off. it will run and not spit out fuel but it wont idle. revs up and dies as soon as the pedal is released.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 05:40 PM   #14
jammer1
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If the carb is running lean, you can get a lean backfire that go's up the carb. When you hit the throttle, you add fuel. When you are driving you are in the intermediate circuit in the carb (not the idle circuit). Any difference in vac and idle speed when you turn the mixture screws. If not much of a difference, the idle circuit could be restricted. If you did something with the fuel tank, could you have gotten some rust or dirt that worked it's way to the carb?
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Unread 12-15-2013, 07:30 PM   #15
o-lockhart85
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well we tried everything with no luck and one day decided to go back to square one and look at timing. which turns out was very wrong and the points gap was insane off, and the distributor shaft was worn down. so i decided to get rid of the points distributor and switch to a hei one based on a 78 or newer model year with an igniton module, new plugs and wires and holy crap!!!! Its like a brand new engine now! and the timing and carb idle still need a little more fine tuning but it still runs the best it has since i bought it.
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