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Unread 08-20-2010, 02:58 PM   #46
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exposed View Post
Only thing I would do different is throw out bearing. It should be for the clutch you use (Ford). Basically I used everything Ford except the clutch disc which is Jeep or GM...
That's a nice motor you have there..I won't be touching the bottom end of my motor. Everything was in great working order when it was pulled plus I don't have that much extra cash for a complete rebuild or the stroker motor. Do you think the Ford Mustang TO bearing will fit over the input shaft of the T176 trans? thanks

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Unread 08-20-2010, 03:57 PM   #47
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Since the throw out bearing mounts to the clutch arm, it has a pretty loose fit. I think there is only a 1/16" difference on diameter of the two input shafts. I don't remember any issue using the Ford throw out bearing in mine. I would think if you use the Jeep throw out bearing you would have to use the Jeep clutch fork as well (mounting bearing).... I am sure the mounting would be different from the Ford to Jeep clutch fork attaching to the bell housing... One other thing you will have to cut off the input shaft about 5/8" so it will not bottom out in the end of the crank (not a big deal). Special pilot bearing is needed as well.
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Unread 08-20-2010, 07:24 PM   #48
CJ7ROB
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Thanks Calvin, for veryifying. Yea I heard that the input shaft may need to be cut down some. What's the best way to do this..bring it to a machine shop and they do it on a lathe, or can I do it myself cutting it carefully with the angle grinder? Yea I knew about the pilot bearing needed, thanks.

Last edited by CJ7ROB; 08-20-2010 at 07:27 PM.. Reason: spelling error corrected
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Unread 08-20-2010, 09:01 PM   #49
petey156
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i marked mine with a sharpe and tape the i used a 4'' angle grinder with a cut off wheel very easy
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Unread 08-21-2010, 05:07 AM   #50
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I cut off mine with a cut off wheel on small die grinder. Hold the grinder in place and let some turn the tail shaft to turn the input shaft. It will cut off with no problems. Then cut a small taper (like the one you just cut off) on the end to make slipping into the pilot bearing a little easier... Takes about 5 minutes to do....

Looking at this thread, I never thought of filing the slots on the disc to fit the 1/16" larger input shaft... It is amazing that we have so many creative people here on the forum... A great place to get information...
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Unread 08-21-2010, 06:59 AM   #51
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exposed View Post
I cut off mine with a cut off wheel on small die grinder. Hold the grinder in place and let some turn the tail shaft to turn the input shaft. It will cut off with no problems. Then cut a small taper (like the one you just cut off) on the end to make slipping into the pilot bearing a little easier... Takes about 5 minutes to do....

Looking at this thread, I never thought of filing the slots on the disc to fit the 1/16" larger input shaft... It is amazing that we have so many creative people here on the forum... A great place to get information...
Great thanks..couldn't do this without you guys.
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Unread 08-21-2010, 11:36 AM   #52
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I guess I got lucky, I didn't have to do anything with my T176 input shaft. Slide right in. Maybe the 94 engine crank depth was different.

Several bookmarks about bellhousings I found while doing my swap.

Bellhousings
Beaver Brook - Ford Transmissions & Parts
351 Cleveland Specifications
Will a 3.8 bellhousing work with a 5.0? - Corral.net : Ford Mustang Forums
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Unread 08-22-2010, 01:50 PM   #53
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Well, I made a little headway today. I picked up the bellhousing (#D1TA-6394-AA), block plate, clutch fork, and linkage piece for $55 off a guy not too far from me. I may not be able to use the linkage piece, but he threw it in.


Last edited by CJ7ROB; 08-22-2010 at 01:54 PM.. Reason: Added part#
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Unread 08-22-2010, 04:21 PM   #54
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Buy the starter for the year of the bellhouse.
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Unread 08-22-2010, 04:27 PM   #55
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What is the pin mounted in the hex hole on the body mount bracket? I see body mount bushing, but that pin has me stumped. I was just looking at the hex holes on those brackets today, wondering what they are for.

Thanks,
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Unread 08-22-2010, 04:38 PM   #56
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Buy the starter for the year of the bellhouse.
Yep thanks, that's what the guy who I got it from said to do...'70 Bronco.
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Unread 08-23-2010, 01:07 PM   #57
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Today I went to Collis Truck Parts in Northampton, PA and I picked up the flywheel for $60 and the Ford PP and GM clutch for $40. The clutch is in great shape but I still may just get a new one. They cleaned up decent with some Brakeclean.





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Unread 08-24-2010, 06:54 PM   #58
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I know many of you have made your own motor mounts..but I may just buy them. Have any of you used the ones by TransDapt? OK4wd sells them for $95 and they are the type that weld to the frame.
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Unread 08-24-2010, 10:20 PM   #59
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M.O.R.E. 'bomb proof' mounts. They bolt in, move the engine forward 1" and slightly 3/4" to the Driver's side. This yields clearance for the rear of the head to clear the firewall:


You may need to 'trim' them to get header clearance, depending on what you run:


You may or may not run into problems with the skidplate/crossmember alignment. I did, but others did not. I opted for an aftermarket 2pc crossmember and skidplate from TDK:




Take the flywheel to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. Trust me, you don't want to take it all apart once you put it in the CJ. I would also just spend the $$ and get a new clutch/disk/TO bearing/Pilot Bearing for the same reason. JMO.


You may run into problems with the OEM Ford clutch fork and the frame mounted combination valve. You can relocate the valve as I did, or modify the clutch arm:


[

The starter selection has more to do with the bellhousing/flywheel combination you are using, rather than the year. With Fords, the bellhousing/flywheel/starter must all 'match'. You've got a bellhousing for a 164t flywheel. You need to use that flywheel, and a starter for that combination. I used a PMGR style on my swap rather than the OEM style. Picked it up from a local remanufacturer for under $80 without a core. This will give you a bit more clearance for headers (depending on what you use):
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Unread 08-25-2010, 06:36 AM   #60
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Thanks Hack, great advice and nice pics. Yea Im planning on getting the flywheel resurfaced and getting a new clutch.
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