302 Ford V8 EFI in '86 CJ7 and my build - Page 13 - JeepForum.com
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post #181 of 563 Old 10-15-2011, 07:14 PM
Coiz
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Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
Thanks guys, Mike I got the alt $95 delivered to my door off ebay. Let me know if you want the link. Did you have to trim your flange at all, or its just very close?
I found it on eBay, thanks for the heads up. He's got a lot of good feedback.

I did not have to trim the starter or exhaust and so far I haven't had any problems restarting it when hot. They both mount solid to the block so there is no flexing between the two.


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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #182 of 563 Old 10-15-2011, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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I gotcha, well if I can't get these mids to work, I may try a pair of long tubes. They say you get more power with the long tube headers anyway
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post #183 of 563 Old 10-18-2011, 08:16 AM
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Hack- that looks like a fine project car for you......
Yeah, just what I need. Does it come with a divorce lawyer????

"In the end...It's all Hack."
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post #184 of 563 Old 10-24-2011, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up getting the correct Mustang alt and AC brackets, painted them up and installed them. The PS pump & bracket I have is for a truck, so I won't be using that, so I'll end up getting the correct Mustang PS pump & bracket.





Got my extended sway bar endlinks too.

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post #185 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 04:00 AM
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Your setup looks exactly like mine except for the air pump pulley. I just deleted and replaced with shorter belt. Here is a picture in the early stages. Mustang pump works great...... Looks like yours is coming along nicely.....
Attached Thumbnails
belt-1.jpg  

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post #186 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Calvin, I didn't know the airpump pulley could be eliminated like that so that's what I'll do. I have been having some trouble getting the right headers to fit. The center dump doesn't work on the pass. side, it fits but it gets in the way of the starter, and I have the same hi-torque mini starter as you. The driver side center dump will work ok. The longtubes I have on there now fit but they aren't going to work b/c the pass. side will be in the way of the drive shaft. So the Mustang shortys you have below didn't get in the way of your clutch linkage at all and worked out well? thanks

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post #187 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 06:58 AM
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I ordered the Ford Pickup shorty headers I think (80's). I ordered them from Summit I think and were not expensive. It is the same ones Hack used on his Ford conversion. I can dig up a number if you want it. They have plenty of clearance on both sides (starter/clutch setup). Even with the factory larger starter, they cleared okay. Plenty of room with the hi-torque smaller starter. By the way, starter works great..... Sorry I don't have a better picture of that area. I can take a couple shots if wanting to see.....
Calvin
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ford-4.JPG  

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post #188 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Oh I gotcha, they are truck shortys huh? Yes if you happen to have the part# for them, that'd be great, thanks. I have used your pics in your build a lot, they have been a great help so far.
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post #189 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 07:50 AM
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I will look through my receipts tonight and find you a number. I also think there is a tag on the header with the number as well....

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post #190 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Another thing either Calvin, Mike or whoever else is doing this conversion. The driveshafts I am going to need modified. Locally they want $50 to shorten one and $125-$150 to lengthen one. For the rear driveshaft they say to use a beefier one and have it shortened to the length I need. Are you guys using beefier rear driveshafts or did you just use your stock CJ ones? thanks.
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post #191 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 10:54 AM
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If you are using the More motor mounts, T-176, D300, I would think your length is really close to what I ended up. I think my front driveshaft had been modified before I did the swap. It was close enough that I did not modify. The back one, worried about the stroker GT40 motor, I had Tom Woods build me one with the CV joint. That being said, I am going to be swapping out my T176 and replacing with the AX15 I bought. I am pretty sure both drive shafts will need to be replaced/rebuilt. I bought tubing to rebuild the front one. I will have Tom Woods build me another one for the rear. If you setup is close enough, I would happy to make you a deal on my rear one....

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post #192 of 563 Old 10-25-2011, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Calvin that would be awesome if they're the same, but yours is a CJ5 correct? So it might be shorter, if not then I'd definitely be interested, thanks.
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post #193 of 563 Old 10-26-2011, 07:36 AM
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Duh!!! You are correct, if CJ7, would be too short I would think. It was built to 16" center to center on u-joints...

One another note, I looked at my headers and they are Pace Setter 70-1322. Below is a link where I bought them. They will fit and have the O2 bung installed for the sensors you will need.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-1322/

Calvin

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When there are more people voting for a living than working for a living,
We are DONE as a Country!!!!!!

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post #194 of 563 Old 11-07-2011, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Calvin, for your AC, did you use the stock Mustang accumulator and orifice hose as well? Thanks
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post #195 of 563 Old 11-07-2011, 10:59 AM
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Did the project go south?
I see you have alot of the conversion parts for sale....
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