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Unread 01-06-2011, 08:54 PM   #1
BlueOvalBud
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1976 CJ8 
 
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258 teardown

Hey fellas,
I don't get to come over here and have fun very often. I spend most of my computer time on Ford Truck Enthusiasts keeping my 85 F350 running to make me money, so I can in turn spend it on the Jeep! Can't have fun with the Jeep if the work truck isn't working....

So, I began the teardown on the 258 tonight. I pulled the head and the cylinder walls look very nice, shiny as a mirror. I've never been in a motor before, so I don't know exactly what I'm looking for, but I assume if something was really bad it would stand out. The only thing standing out right now is all the sludge build up around the lifters, which is still wet enough to move around with a screwdriver pretty easily.

I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on cleaning the engine. I don't have any precsion tools, but I'm thinking I'll disconnect the connecting rods and pull the pistons out. Then I'll pull the crankshaft out, and that would leave the block pretty naked. At that point I think I'll take it to a machine shop for magnafluxing, to check for cracks. No point in proceeding if the thing is cracked!
My big issue is cleaning. I've read that machine shops are dropping out of the hot-tanking service due to EPA regulations...and they've turned to steam pressure washing as an alternative. Well hey, I have a pressure washer and hot water, can't I do this myself? I'll use some soapy water, and spray the crap out of everything, then dry it off with compresed air. Then coat everything with some motor oil to prevent rust.

Does this procedure sound pretty good?

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Scrambler - a Nuttin' Special Budget Build from the ground up. '76 CJ7 Drivetain in a Scrambler. 258, T18, Dana 20, Dana 30, AMC 20, Fiberglass Tub, Team Rush, Glasspack
'84 CJ7 - A frame-off resto for my sister's daily driver! 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC 20, Widetracks
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Unread 01-06-2011, 09:38 PM   #2
shok47
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You can wash your own block with your pressure washer. Buy some degreaser and coat it up and wash until satisfied. If you need the block cleaned before testing, ask if they will give you a cheaper price for a cleaned block!
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Unread 01-06-2011, 10:48 PM   #3
1986cj
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I Have done it before with a heated hotsy at work on a couple of 460s before. They come as clean as hot tanking them. Just pull every thing out before, and go to town. When you drop off the block have the machine shop replace the cam bearings, they dont charge much and is cheaper to have them do it in a bare block.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts? I spend way to much time in the FTE 73-79 forum there also.
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Unread 01-07-2011, 09:59 AM   #4
baldfatdad
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You will probably need to cut the ridge at the top of the cylinders if you are going to get the pistons out the top. If you are pulling it all apart you might be able to get them out the bottom after you pull the crank. Get an engine building book. It will tell you thinks like marking the rod and main caps, etc.
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Unread 01-07-2011, 10:16 AM   #5
BlueOvalBud
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Yep, I spend some time in the IDI diesel section for the work truck. Luckily it doesn't break as often as it did, now there's more new parts than original! BlueOvalBud is my screename over there too.

I'm thinking I'll head to Barnes and Noble for an engine bulding book.
Thanks for the replies on washing, I think I'll go for it and see what happens!
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'84 CJ7 - A frame-off resto for my sister's daily driver! 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC 20, Widetracks
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Unread 01-07-2011, 04:30 PM   #6
Trapshooter
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If the cylinder walls of your engine are bright and shiny that's not a good thing. The cylinder walls actually need to be somewhat dull from what is called "cross hatching." Cross hatching helps the oil cling to the cylinder wall for lubrication purposes.

Your cylinder block needs to be honed at least, if not re-bored. You'll also want to install new rings on the pistons, if the cylinders are honed. If the cylinders are bored, you'll need new pistons.

Make sure to track which piston came from which hole. You'll want to reinstall the same piston into the same cylinder during assembly.

Purchasing a book about engine building is a great idea and will be worth the money you spend in helping with the engine re-build.

Good Luck.........
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Unread 01-07-2011, 04:33 PM   #7
Trapshooter
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If you really want to learn about rebuilding an engine, check out this Web site.

http://store.boxwrench.net/Basic-Eng...g-DVD_p_8.html

I have heard nothing but great things about these DVD's.
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'86 CJ7, 258, Carter BBD, Nutter'ed, TeamRush'ed, T-18, Twin Sticked Dana 300, D30 Frt-Pwr Lok L/S-4.10, AMC 20 Rear-Mosers-Detroit Locker-4.10, 2.5 BDS Lift, 1" Body Lift, 33" Wild Country M/Ts, Black Spoke wheels

'45 CJ2A, L134 Go Devil, T-90 Tranny, Warn O/D, T-18 T-Case, Dana 25 Frt, Dana 41 Rear, 531st CJ made

My 401 build: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/trapshooters-401-build-1338277/[/url]
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Unread 01-07-2011, 06:49 PM   #8
Crazyray2929
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Like Ford's do ya...I miss mine.
_20110107_09000207.jpg  
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Unread 01-07-2011, 07:16 PM   #9
benullman
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Did you ever pull with that ^^

Very nice rig!

Ben
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Unread 01-07-2011, 07:19 PM   #10
jwhi1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapshooter View Post
If the cylinder walls of your engine are bright and shiny that's not a good thing. The cylinder walls actually need to be somewhat dull from what is called "cross hatching." Cross hatching helps the oil cling to the cylinder wall for lubrication purposes.

Your cylinder block needs to be honed at least, if not re-bored. You'll also want to install new rings on the pistons, if the cylinders are honed. If the cylinders are bored, you'll need new pistons.

Make sure to track which piston came from which hole. You'll want to reinstall the same piston into the same cylinder during assembly.

Purchasing a book about engine building is a great idea and will be worth the money you spend in helping with the engine re-build.

Good Luck.........

I tore my down a couple weeks ago and thought everything looked great of course it was the first motor I had ever tore down. The cylinder walls were nice and shiny also. When I got it to the machine shop it took him about five seconds to say boy it sure has some wear on it. He ended up having to bore it .030 over.

As for removing the pistons from the bottom we were unable to get them out had to take them out through the top.....
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Unread 01-07-2011, 07:23 PM   #11
VACJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapshooter View Post
If you really want to learn about rebuilding an engine, check out this Web site.

http://store.boxwrench.net/Basic-Eng...g-DVD_p_8.html

I have heard nothing but great things about these DVD's.
I bought this DVD a few months ago and it is very good. My 258 is torn down waiting to go to the machine shop.

Slide some rubber hose over the connecting rod bolts when you take the pistons out.
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Unread 01-08-2011, 04:27 PM   #12
BlueOvalBud
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Yep, mine are so shiny you can see your reflection LOL!
I actually threw it on the back on my truck and took it down to the machine shop...long block is complete and also took the head.
The guy came out and looked it over and said we could probably get away with a honing and fresh rings.
So I'll pull it all apart and bring it back down to the shop where they can measure everything up. If it's real bad then we'll be looking at a minimum overbore.
Thanks for the link, I'll look into that more and thanks for the tips!

I'm loving that Highboy! 390? I love FE's! Matter of fact, I was the crazy one who did a thread last winter about putting an FE into a CJ. Still a possibility if this 258 gets real expensive on the rebuild...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fo...nto-cj-929283/
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Scrambler - a Nuttin' Special Budget Build from the ground up. '76 CJ7 Drivetain in a Scrambler. 258, T18, Dana 20, Dana 30, AMC 20, Fiberglass Tub, Team Rush, Glasspack
'84 CJ7 - A frame-off resto for my sister's daily driver! 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC 20, Widetracks
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Unread 01-08-2011, 04:35 PM   #13
Crazyray2929
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Not a highboy....73 F-100 Ranger XLT Camper Special.
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Unread 02-22-2011, 05:21 PM   #14
BlueOvalBud
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Nice rig CrazyRay! A little update for the Jeep crowd. I stripped the motor down last week and dropped it off at the machine shop for them to measure the cylinders and determine if we can get by with a honing or go with an overbore. I didn't wash it, it ended up being very clean inside. In the meantime I've been cleaning up some parts to be ready for re-assembly. I've stripped down the '81 parts Jeep and have the aluminum manifold and exhaust manifold...the exhaust manfold looks much-better designed than the older-style exhaust manifold! Is it possible to put the '81 aluminum intake and exhaust manifolds on this '78ish 258? I don't have the '78ish engine here, otherwise I would just check myself...
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Scrambler - a Nuttin' Special Budget Build from the ground up. '76 CJ7 Drivetain in a Scrambler. 258, T18, Dana 20, Dana 30, AMC 20, Fiberglass Tub, Team Rush, Glasspack
'84 CJ7 - A frame-off resto for my sister's daily driver! 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC 20, Widetracks
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Unread 02-23-2011, 08:07 PM   #15
BlueOvalBud
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Unfortunately, the machine shop gave some bad news. Cylinders need a .030" overbore, the thrust bearing chewed up the crankshaft, and the camshaft lobes are pretty worn. The $2,300 bill includes a totally rebuilt bottom end all assembled, a valve job with fresh seals, and a re-surfaced head. I tore down the OTHER spare 258 we have. Even worse, the exhaust valve rocker on the rear cylinder doesn't tighten down and the pushrod comes rght out from under it with the bolt tightened down. The intake valve on that same cylnder revealed a bent push rod. Unfortunately, it's out of my budget to rebuild either engine....so I think I'm back to my original idea of stuffing my 352 FE in here. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fo...nto-cj-929283/ I'm still going over pros and cons, but used engines are out of the question because they're probably on their last legs like the 2 I have torn apart...they both looked good on the outside, but nasty on the inside.
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Scrambler - a Nuttin' Special Budget Build from the ground up. '76 CJ7 Drivetain in a Scrambler. 258, T18, Dana 20, Dana 30, AMC 20, Fiberglass Tub, Team Rush, Glasspack
'84 CJ7 - A frame-off resto for my sister's daily driver! 258, T4, D300, D30, AMC 20, Widetracks
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