Looking for a little help here. I have a 1979 CJ7 with the above motor in the title. After having the motor fully rebuilt it started up with a "knock". After taking to two different motor heads (not the guy who originally did the work), they thought the knock was in the top end. So I took the motor back out and sent it back to the guy who originally did the work. He has completely disassembled the whole motor and has found nothing wrong with it.
Some of the history. Oil pressure was good. Top end power a little low. Knock was continuous before and after removal of each and every spark plug wire. The knock goes up and down with the RPM'S.
The timing cover has the little knob on the inner face of the timing plate. I'm not sure but I think there should be a spring and (or bolt/pin) that the knob presses up against. Right??? When I left the guys shop last night, he didn't remember removing any spring/bolt/pin.
Any ideas would be helpful and appreciated.
One last thing that I'm sure you all have answered a thousand times but I just haven't got a solid anwser on using the internet. How can I (or shouldn't I) tow my rig when I have a full Detroit locker in the rear with no hubs?
I haven't had my I6 apart, but isn't there a cam retainer plate on the front of the motor?
I think that would keep the cam from walking.
I just had my Ford V8 apart, and they make special mention of installing cam retainer plate and using locktite on the bolts to make sure it didnt become loose causing the cam to walk. I think there was/is a small spacer of sorts to locate the cam properly in the block.
I know some cj years are different. But my problem is that if indeed this year does take a spring and pin to retain the cam, they forgot to put it back in and is causing the knock. Or may be there is only supposed to be a retaining plate. I don't know. But what I do know is the knock was pretty pronounced.
1984 CJ-7 offroad special loves to get dirty and play rough. unlike the girls I meet
258 rebuilt with torquer cam/ weber 32/36 carb, HEI ignition ,headers 4 in lift AMC 20 detroit rear locked and trussed / tru trax front 4:56 Gears ,solid axles on 35's
"Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference."-
i just had read somewhere that the helical cut of the distributor gears meshing with the cam gear will put enough lateral force to keep the cam pushed ''back''....
1980 cj7 258 weber,5'' of lift,33'' boggers,lincoln locked,lockright and a snorkle...Khaki Jeep Club member No. 1
1984 cj8 350 on 35's..the wifes
"offroad it, and wave then you might understand"[/QUOTE]
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The spare 258 motor I have has the spring in the the bolt that holds the cam on, I not sure what year this motor is. I was told it was an 85 but it uses 1/2 inch head bolts.
Now my 79 motor it is a Jasper short block that I put in 17 years ago I just put a new timong chain on it. It did not have the spring in it.
When your motor was recone did you put in a new cam or lifters?????? Maybe he didn't keep them in order or if you replace the lifters the cam should also be placed. The cam and lifters work together to keep the cam in the motor.
Is there marks in the timing chain cover that shows the cam walking out????? You could get the cam bolt with the spring in it and see if that would help.