[chooster5000]

also i broke a aluminum fulcrom bridge as seen in the photo of the head, should i just replace with a new one or go with the steel ones, does it really matter ? thanks guys

[lucdog]

I wouldn't be surprised to find steel the only option.

Bill

[chooster5000]

So what about the rocker bridges though

[lucdog]

Originally Posted by chooster5000

So what about the rocker bridges though

They come in a 3 piece set, 1 bridge, 2 folcrums/pivot points.

[chooster5000]

ok sorry about the other posts i guess im impatient and excited to be pulling this engine apart pretty much by myself and was looking for quick answers to keep going. i really do appreciate the help of everyone and understand that i should have just post my questions on this same thread, so i will from now on unless its unrelated to this thread. ok so now my question is, im pretty sure my cam is wore out because it looks like the edges of the lobes are falling apart and it looks like theres some pitting. the lifters are probably wore out also cause i can shake one and the top piece goes up and down easy, arnt they supposed to have a spring in them ?, the main bearings are screwed so i assume the rod bearings are to i havent pulled them yet but im pretty sure.

[Caish]

those mains actually look okay not mujch wear there.
cam doesnt look to bad but notg perfect.
Never use used flat lifters on a new camshaft.
You want to look at the bottom of the lifter too, see if its wearing
flat and not concaved.

[chooster5000]

really those mains all have the scoring right in the middle of them like that and its deep enough to catch my finger nail, but they all do look the same as far as where other then the scouring. the lifters all are wore in concave and arnt flat so now what am i looking at, thanks

[Caish]

that scoring on the main was hard to tell on phone. Im working.
Some main bearings come with a slot like that to spread oil around it and keep the crank isolated. Its how the bearing works.
Bearings are cheap especially when your already looking at them.
Little pieces of trash/metal/carbon gets into the system and it cant get out past the bearing so it leaves some scoring.
Look at the overall bearing though its not bad across the hole
surface. No copper showing and light scuffing. Someone has kept
oil cchanged it looks like.

Me I would go head and replace those bearings since I had them out. look at back side of the bearing and see if its marked std, .010 etc to find the size.

If I pulled that bearing out and the engine was still in the vehicle
then I would put it back in, not enough wear on it to justify pulling
the engine to replace it.

[Caish]

If the lifters are concave on the bottom replace them all. Even if they're not and you replace the cam then replace the lifters too.

If your working on a roller lifter engine no need to replace the lifters because you replaced the cam. Theyre reusable.

One last thing that journal on the cam looks scored not polished,
if so what does the cam bearings look like?

[chooster5000]

I think the safe thing to do is replace it all, the cam looks worse in person i dont like it so i think ill just change it all, thanks guys just wanted some more opinions, will keep the posts up to show my progress

[chooster5000]

well today i got the crank and pistons, took the ridge off the block and honed it after measuring it and it all seems fine for standered rings even. i did the head up today as well, i took it all apart cleaned the valve, lapped them by hand and did the valve guides just a couple times to clear them out. wire brushed the valve cover and manifold surfaces, should get a picture of my work for today, my dad helped me do the honing and cross hatches on the block to.

[chooster5000]

some more pics

[chooster5000]

what does anyone suggest for a low torque cam, i need to get a kit with lifters

[chooster5000]

got to spray some paint yesterday and doing some more today, i went with crysler blue, it looks almost like amc blue in the right light. I like the color alot and glad i went with it, hope it runs as good as it looks

on the cam question im just going to do a stock cam as it ran awesome with the wore out one so it should be fine. hopefully it will be in my jeep by the end of the summer

[chooster5000]

hey guys i kind off messed the thread up where the bolt for the balancer goes in the crankshaft, i cant seem to run a tap in it easy, might need a bottom tap to get it better, can these be heli coiled to repair the threads. i dont see it being a big deal as ive heli coiled cast iron on a engine block before and aluminum. id rather not have to buy another crankshaft just because the threads got buggered up, are these shafts steel or what ?