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Unread 06-25-2014, 03:55 AM   #1
grasmo
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2 piece axle

anyone ever just welded the hubs and axles together? other than thinking you couldn't get the bearings and seals off?

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Unread 06-25-2014, 04:28 AM   #2
RWise
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Originally Posted by grasmo View Post
anyone ever just welded the hubs and axles together? other than thinking you couldn't get the bearings and seals off?
What you will end up with is a broken axle snapped where the weld is, setting on the trail or roadside and maybe damage to the tub as well. Or worse if the wheel comes off on the highway and kills someone.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #3
80cj
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What you will end up with is a broken axle snapped where the weld is, setting on the trail or roadside and maybe damage to the tub as well. Or worse if the wheel comes off on the highway and kills someone.
Exactly. Welding axles especially in the wheel area is generally regarded as a no-no.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 01:44 PM   #4
CSP
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Only as a last ditch effort to get one off a trail.

Not only will the steel become brittle, but most likely will warp and the wheel will have tons of runout.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 03:55 PM   #5
LumpyGrits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grasmo View Post
anyone ever just welded the hubs and axles together? Other than thinking you couldn't get the bearings and seals off?
Don't!

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Unread 06-25-2014, 06:52 PM   #6
RenoF250
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I agree it sounds like a bad idea but I really can' see that it would cause a problem if you did short welds on the nut. Then the axle should not break because you have not heated that area but there is added resistance from the welds. No?
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Unread 06-25-2014, 07:48 PM   #7
80cj
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Once a hub has spun on an axle, the recommendation in the FSM is to replace the hub if the axle is still serviceable or in the case of a damaged shaft, replace both the hub and axle shaft. Better yet, invest in a one piece axle setup. Do a search on the forum and you will see that others have tried what the OP is questioning and have ended in failure. There are right ways and a wrong ways to fix a stripped hub and welding is not one of the right ways. Safety should be your first consideration.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 08:37 PM   #8
RenoF250
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Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
Once a hub has spun on an axle, the recommendation in the FSM is to replace the hub if the axle is still serviceable or in the case of a damaged shaft, replace both the hub and axle shaft. Better yet, invest in a one piece axle setup. Do a search on the forum and you will see that others have tried what the OP is questioning and have ended in failure. There are right ways and a wrong ways to fix a stripped hub and welding is not one of the right ways. Safety should be your first consideration.
Mine are not stripped, I was entertaining the idea to make it last longer while I build my D44. Sounds like the consensus is bad idea.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 09:06 PM   #9
80cj
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Mine are not stripped, I was entertaining the idea to make it last longer while I build my D44. Sounds like the consensus is bad idea.
If they're not stripped, make sure the nut is properly torqued. factory spec is 250 ft. Lbs plus whatever it takes to line the castellated nut up with the cotter pin.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 09:10 PM   #10
RenoF250
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If they're not stripped, make sure the nut is properly torqued. factory spec is 250 ft. Lbs plus whatever it takes to line the castellated nut up with the cotter pin.
They are pinned and rusty, I just left them figuring any messing with them would only loosen the rusts grip. Once I get the dough for a Truetrac I will build the D44 and put it in.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 09:22 PM   #11
only in a jeep cj
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Everyone like pictures so here we go....

I have a heavy foot.....mine spun, I had NO TIME for the 1 piece swap so a light weld worked and it lasted a week. Re-spun it (broke the welds) and I re-welded it again.....2 days later, weld broke again. I got a late 86 Dana 44 to swap in, but needed a few more weeks.....did a final high burn in to really hold it.... Each time 4 high with locked front hubs got me home. Each time the nut kept the spun hub on the shaft.










When it spun the third time, again I locked the front hubs and drove home in 4 high....Several miles later (in heavy traffic) the wheel got wobbly and stuck out a few inches when I pulled over. I stopped and called a friend with a trailer. We jacked up the rear to inspect it and the wheel fell off with the drum and hub. IT snapped the axle shaft behind the shaft end and weld....Thank God my wheel didn't fall off when I was doing 45 MPH down the Highway.






Everything posted above I agree with. The high heat changes things and its a big no no. Don't do it. Get a new hub/key, a one piece kit, or another axle.
It will hold IF the tires aren't huge and the nut is very tight. In 24 years of driving CJs, Ive spun a few. Moser is the way to go if your keeping the 20. Late 86 44 is my first choice though.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 09:47 PM   #12
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What a stupid design.
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Unread 06-25-2014, 09:57 PM   #13
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It wasn't a stupid design at all. The two piece axle allowed AMC to save manufacturing costs by making the rear axle modular so that different set ups could serve different vehicles. It definitely wasn't the strongest set up, but economically it made sense for a company strapped for $$$.

Think about it; your two piece axle IS still working. (albeit for now)
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Unread 06-25-2014, 11:02 PM   #14
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OUATIAJ, great story and great pics. Thanks for sharing!!!!

Welding the nut will not affect anything, the nut does not back off but the torque drops. When fitted origonally the high torque forced the splines on the axle shaft into the softer metal of the hub, forming a key. Over time the hub can fret, something seen where the Axle Nut is not checked occassionally and retorqued, and the tirue levels drop, and as soon as you get a little amout of play in the joint it multilies. Eventually you may hear a creaking sound and then weeks later a snap and bang and it is spinning around the axle shaft.

If you want it to last longer keep the Axle Nut torqued. It is a big boy, 33mm, and you will need to be jumping up and down on the end of a 2' bar to get enough torque on to it. I use a 3/4" drive I keep just for this task.
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Unread 06-26-2014, 02:55 AM   #15
grasmo
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mine aren't spun. changing axle brgs. and thought I might just tig 'em up. just curious because I know of things, and have probably welded some, that carry much higher loads/impacts than this thing will ever see. thanks all.
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