So my project vehicle is finally going to end up as my Daily Driver since my girl friends ****ty Chrysler sebring took a crap on her, and I'm nice enough to let her drive my WJ till she can get a new car.
The CJ runs pretty well so far but I do have a few questions on it.
When starting after sitting for a day, it cranks alot before she finally starts up. This is with pumping the pedal, is this normal for most CJ's? Or am I losing fuel pressure somewhere along the way?
After it starts the exhaust smell is so bad it gives my girl friend a headache in minutes, where I go to get my inspection, they have never given a rat's *** about emissions as far as I can tell so I'm not too worried about that but are there any common spots on the CJ's where the exhaust begins to leak? There's no bad rust anywhere on the whole Jeep surprisingly as its been sitting in the backyard for 7 years now.
The smell gets into the cab while driving whether the doors/top is on or off and I've only been able to find some small holes in a metal (exhaust?) pipe.
And the brakes still seem to lack muscle, I can stop...but I probably couldnt stop if something unexpected happened on the road, I've replaced the front calipers and brake lines and bled the brakes, besides bleeding them more, is there anything else I can do?
And well, Ya'll will probably be seeing me post more in the CJ forum, so thanks for the help fellas and if there's anything else you think I should look at let me know!
Your starting could be a number of things but I would start with checking all hoses and gaskets for vacuum leaks. Then check the fuel filter is correctly oriented. Then check the choke is correctly adjusted and working.
As it is a 1986 does it still have the computer stuff? If so you may want to check the operation of the stepper pins in the carb. If you take the top off and have a look and have a buddy turn the key you shoudl see those pins cycle back and forth once. If they are stuck fully out you will have a rich mixture.
Exhaust in the cab could be thse big holes in the exhaust but could also be the position and design of the tail pipe. Is it stock? If not the exhaust gases will get sucked back in.
If you have swapped it out for a Weber you are in a different situation.
When you swapped out the carb you defeated the emissions. Did you Nutter the ignition at the same time and remove the emissions gubbins i.e. a lot of the vacuum hose? It will run better if you take out the computer by Nutterring it and then change the distributor advance head and springs. The computer may not work the ignition properly after the carb is changed so it is usual to Nutter when you chaneg the carb, but not everyone then changes the advance head.
I would still check the hoses and have another look at that tail pipe. It should exit behind the wheel, having passed above the leaf spring, and be about 45 degrees to the side and down.
If it is still running rich I would check the adjustment of the choke and idle mixture, then the ignition timing.
If the gas filter isn't in correctly, sitting level with the return line off the top, gas can drain back to the tank when it sits causing long cold starts. A plugged up air filter on the gas tank vent (charcoal canister) can put a vacuum on the tank, sucking the gas lines dry when it sits. A bad drain back valve on the gas pump can also let the lines empty out.
You are pumping the gas a couple times to set the choke and prime it before a start right? On that note, the choke is closing when you pump the gas on a cold off engine right.
The exhaust needs to exit out the back corner between the spring and frame on a 45 angle so it blows the exhaust away from the Jeep out into the slip stream. If it comes straight out the back, it vortexes on the flat back sucking into the cab.
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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I can just see the check valve at the top of that tube in the engine compartment. If the valve at the top of that tube in the engine compartment is bad, exhaust will circulate back to your air cleaner and into the carb causing problems. With the Weber carb it may be blocked or have the hose pulled off unless you still have the stock air cleaner setup. With that tube still there I am wondering if it is pumping exhaust into your engine compartment and then the cab.
I took pictures to show other areas of concern and the tailpipe angle , ill upload those tonight.
Mike Romain, what is the process you are talking about? I normally just pump the pedal while cranking the engine, is this not right?
BagusJeep, the Jeep does have a computer looking thing in the glove box so I assume ots the computer, I've heard of the butter bypass but am unsure what exactly it does or why it's called Nutter haha
Thek12, I see two of those bulbous looking things on each side of the engine, I know one is rusted through at the top but dont remember if they are connected at all on top. But that does sound like a very likely situation. Are those pipes welded together or with welds? Something I can do at home or should I take it to an exhaust shop?
Here is the exhaust angle, didn't have time to actually measure it
And here is that air injection thing, totally missing its top half lol
Looked into the Nutter Bypass and I'm going to do it this weekend.After I do this do need those Air Injection check valves or can I remove them? And I have alot of emission hoses going about the engine, Are all these still necessary?
Dig the color combo, that is a really nice CJ7. Even better that it is back from the dead and going to be on the road again! That blown out check valve is definitely putting exhaust into your engine compartment and probably the cab. Check the one on the other side and see if it is doing the same thing. Factory those are connected to the exhaust with c clamps, but they could be welded on when the tailpipe was changed/fixed. The tailpipe is not in the ideal spot as Mike mentioned but that will affect you more with the top off.
The air tubes inject fresh air into the exhaust stream to reduce emissions, one connects upstream a little below the O2 sensor and the one with the blown out top injects air into the cat. I can see what looks like the rubber hose that is supposed to connect to the check valve hanging against the firewall. What is that connected to? The Nutter does not normally involve the air injection tubes so you can remove them and cap the points where they connect to the exhaust system. Not sure if there is emission testing in SA, to be safe check those before tearing everything out. I am in an area where they sniff test so I still run the tubes.
Post up a couple pics of the top of your engine and carb so we can see what's going on with the carb. Mike also mentioned your fuel filter, it needs to be level with the top nipple (he he) at 12 o'clock. Might as well replace it since your Jeep has been sitting.
Great info guys, I'll get some more pictures of the Carb and other associated areas tomorrow with my DSLR.
The color combo? haha the hood and fender tops are just super faded and show bare metal now, a wonder how they havent rusted yet. Later down the line I want to paint the hood and fenders back to factory grey with the Laredo decals
Where can I buy new check valves? I've looked on rock auto and cant find anything similar. Whats a good place to find CJ parts? I'll buy the fuel filter tomorrow after I head over to my insurance dude to get it insured to start the process As far the tube hanging down, its going to nothing now. It has whatever piece that broke off from the check valve top.
Will be buying quite a few feet of Fuel line hose. Or did you mean the metal lines?
From what I understand about the nutter bypass process is that since I have a weber 32/36 I dont have to mess with any stepper motor and go right to the Cutting of the computer wires?
Your tailpipe should be angled like this...
If the tailpipe goes straight back, the "low pressure area" directly behind the Jeep will pull the exhaust back into the cab. (Think of race cars "drafting") Directing it out the side puts the exhaust into the slipstream which carries it away.
When set up correctly, all you should need to do for start up is to depress the accelerator pedal all the way down to the floor ONCE and then let up on it before turning the key. This will set the choke, which will back off as the engine warms. Constant pumping of the pedal will lead to flooding the carburetor.
The gas filter should be oriented so that the end with two outlets are vertical with the center outlet at the bottom of the two. The top outlet is for the fuel return the center (bottom) feeds the carburetor. The rubber lines connecting it to the steel fuel lines need to be changed as often as the filter to avoid cracks which could lead to a fire as Lumpy mentioned.
The fuel vapor canister, as mentioned, needs to work or there will be issues. Your fuel system is vented through the canister. If it's plugged fuel can't be delivered properly and also the gas vapors won't get dumped into the carburetor as intended causing you to smell them.
I'd rather be lost on the trails than found at home!