1985 CJ8 swapping in Dodge 1 ton Dana 44 front and Dana 60 rear?????????? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-08-2005, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
JeepScrambler
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1985 CJ8 swapping in Dodge 1 ton Dana 44 front and Dana 60 rear??????????

Just like the title says, I found a running 1 ton Dodge Power Wagon that had a dana 44 with flat top knuckles swapped into it instead of the original front dana 60. It still have the dana 60 in the rear with the big bore spindles. The rearend will be no problem to swap but I have some questions about the front. This is all getting put in a '85 CJ8 with a dana 300 t-case with 3" alcan lift springs w/ SOA setup.

-First, I will be running 2" wide springs in the front, what problems will this cause since the spring pad on the passenger side near is cast into the pumpkin and is set up for the 2 1/2" wide dodge springs?

-Second, I am wanting to keep the axles full width and not have to cut them down. Will the t-case and pinion still line up without cutting down one or both of the axle tubes?

-Third, the 44 does not have manual hubs, what hubs can I put on it or wher can I buy some to make it manual locking?

-What are some of the other problems that I will run into?


1985 CJ8, '85 CJ8, '85 CJ7, '84 CJ7, '84 CJ8, 2-'84 CJ8 AK Postal Scramblers, '82 CJ8, '82 CJ8, '82 CJ8, '53 CJ3A
'02 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins HO 6 spd
'05 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Sahara Edition (0002 of 1000), 6 spd, hard top, stock, 38K miles
'06 Grand Cherokee "Overland"
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-08-2005, 06:37 PM
BESRK
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This is the kind of stuff I like.. . I'd outboard the front spring hangers to run the front full width. This actually helps you with your front driveline angles (especially if you ever run an auto tranny). It will allow the front diff to move approx 2" to the passenger side allowing the front shaft to angle outward slightly. The front axle locates on the springs by the center pins so the narrower springs shouldn't be an issue. Make sure the center pins match the pin hole in the perch though.. no slop allowed. Not sure what kind of front hub that axle uses.. should be able to locate a set of Warn hubs pretty easy though. What gears are in the axles? What size tires are you gonna run? What is the rest of your drivetrain like?.. engine, tranny.. etc. By using that CJ8, you end up with a decent length driveshaft. However, with 3" springs SOA, I'd keep an eye on the drivetrain angle. Be careful about sloping the tranny/tc downward as it will also slope the front tc output upward. That, combined with lots of lift, can bind your front ujoints pretty quick. Try to keep the drivetrain level and maybe use CV joints if need be..

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #3 of 9 Old 09-08-2005, 07:04 PM
BlueTorch
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Dodge front axles have wider spring pad widths than Chevy. Because of this you will have to outboard the springs even more. We offer a weld on kit to make this swap. Our kit is designed to us 2.5 inch wide springs which is what I would recommend using even if you decide to fab the parts yourself. You have nothing to worry about with the front driveshaft. If you run the 3 inch springs it is going to be tall. Depending on what size tires you plan to run and if you plan to cut the fenders you may not want to run the 3 inch springs. We do full width conversions all the time and the biggest spring we normally use is a 1.5 inch RE leaf spring.

Here is a link to our full width axle kit page:
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/c...x.php?cPath=62



Give me a call at the shop and I will be happy to talk over the project and answer any questions you have. We can give you the info needed on upgrading the brake system to handle the axles you and and other things you need to like a traction link in the rear to control axle wrap.

Just let me know if I can help

-Dan

Blue Torch FabWorks, Inc.
205-521-7333 OR 866-RCK-CRWL
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-08-2005, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
JeepScrambler
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Thanks for the answers. For the rest of my drive line, I will be running an AMC 360, NV 4500 tranny, and a Dana 300 t-case. I will most likely be running either 37's or 38's. As for the drive shafts, I will be running CV style shafts. Is there any way to do this without outboarding the springs?

1985 CJ8, '85 CJ8, '85 CJ7, '84 CJ7, '84 CJ8, 2-'84 CJ8 AK Postal Scramblers, '82 CJ8, '82 CJ8, '82 CJ8, '53 CJ3A
'02 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins HO 6 spd
'05 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Sahara Edition (0002 of 1000), 6 spd, hard top, stock, 38K miles
'06 Grand Cherokee "Overland"

Last edited by JeepScrambler; 10-24-2009 at 11:26 AM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-08-2005, 08:04 PM
dawgates
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In the back yes, just move your spring pads in to match tne springs.

The front, No.
There's a few way to do this. one: outboard springs hangers as BESRK and Blue Torch talked about.
Two: use the spring pad on the carrier and cut the other side so there even. (Waggy axle trick). move the driver side spring pad inbound.

Unless you want to narrow the whole axle, there's not much else.

80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA.
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-08-2005, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
JeepScrambler
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That pretty much clears it up. I will look at the cost of doing both and see what the damage is going to be to the wallet. Thanks for all the help!

1985 CJ8, '85 CJ8, '85 CJ7, '84 CJ7, '84 CJ8, 2-'84 CJ8 AK Postal Scramblers, '82 CJ8, '82 CJ8, '82 CJ8, '53 CJ3A
'02 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins HO 6 spd
'05 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Sahara Edition (0002 of 1000), 6 spd, hard top, stock, 38K miles
'06 Grand Cherokee "Overland"
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-20-2012, 10:01 PM
jeffsmanyjeeps
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I have the same Dodge front 44 with full time axles. What did you do with the lack of hubs. And did you go with a crossover steering set up? That 44 had the old style steering drag link set up right? I know Blue Torch has fix for steering...

Only need the Time, tools, money, and a place to do it. At least I am half way there..
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-21-2012, 10:07 AM
CSP
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Lockout hubs can be swapped in for the drive flanges quite easily as long as it's not the Dodge 44 with the 5 on 4.5" lug pattern.
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-21-2012, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Lockout hubs can be swapped in for the drive flanges quite easily as long as it's not the Dodge 44 with the 5 on 4.5" lug pattern.
or the 8 lug full time axle. These two use a unit bearing and there is no drive flange. Axle is splined into the hub. I did not mess with trying to swap in different hubs as I used the full time NP203 out of the donor Dodge.

Here is a picture of the full time 8 lug 44 under my '6



As for steering, I had the pass side knuckle milled and drilled for a highsteer arm, that I am using for the draglink. One of these days I will make 2 new arms and go to full highsteer.


80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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