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Unread 08-09-2012, 10:07 AM   #16
pman
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Shoot, that looks to be in great shape! Blast all of that mud out of it and you've got a solid tub to work with. I'm still curious to know what will be lurking under the diamond plate. Get your MIG ready (or go get one). Outside of the Raptor bedliner spraying, the welding was the most enjoyable part of working on mine.

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Unread 08-09-2012, 11:42 AM   #17
AggieBoxer
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I'll take the diamond plate off next!
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Unread 08-09-2012, 06:38 PM   #18
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Bray-mers... pretty....

The wiring won't be so bad. I am in the finishing-up stage now, and I have no skills. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't hard! Makes sense, I know.
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Unread 08-09-2012, 10:12 PM   #19
BagusJeep
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The tub looks salvageable but you need to take it off first, put aside a couple of days to get it down to a rolling chassis. I guess you will find rust in the cowl area, rear quarters, rear floor, behind the seats, in the rocker panels and a few other areas. But all repairable.

The windshield frane is rusted, looks like you will need a replacement. They are not expensive.

The electrics do not look that bad. A fair few wires are disconnected and hanging but they look in good condition. When you drop the dash panel you will be able to route them and tie them up and wrap them and clean it up. This is esier than trying to replace the whole harness. There are a lot of wires there but surpriisngly few things they connect together. You can unplug the dash harness at the Bulkhead Connector when you free the tub from the frame and engine bay.
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Unread 08-09-2012, 10:27 PM   #20
Impy62
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If it makes you feel any better, here in Illinois, that tub would be considered EXCELLENT. If you need proof, search craiglist for jeep CJs in Illinois lol.
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Unread 08-10-2012, 01:27 PM   #21
spward
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieBoxer View Post
I have that center console in my 85 and it holds water right there too.
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Last edited by spward; 08-10-2012 at 01:54 PM..
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Unread 08-10-2012, 02:05 PM   #22
FrnchDp
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Quote:
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I have that center console in my 84 and it holds water right there too.
I had that console a while back.. until some yahoo broke into it (to steal the busted amp.. but not the polarized sunglasses...), leading to the plastic cracking right off with the lock.
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Unread 08-10-2012, 04:10 PM   #23
1SASjeepster
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AggieBoxer,

I have to disagree with BagusJeep about the electrical. You say it is a 1984 jeep... That is 28 years old. The electrical system maybe OK, but the insulation on that wiring could be cracked and "arcing" while you are driving. Putting in a new, simple universal electrical system is simple and it is all modern wire with awesome insulation. Whenever I restore any jeep or outdoor vehicle, I always put in a new electrical system unless it is in super shape. Being outdoors in the field can turn into a "survival situation" in the blink of an eye. You don't want to "encourage" those situations unless you truly can't afford the new electrical system.

My first jeep was a WWII MB. That electrical wiring system simply did not hold up over the years. There was "grounds" where there shouldn't have been and "arcing" all the time. When I bought my 1992 YJ from my brother, the electrical system was greatly improved (as far as insulation and what not) but it was still in poor shape from cracking in the insulation and not really washing "road grunge" off of it. I was too broke to put in a new electrical system so I had to "make do". I really went through it for a few weeks and traced wires, replaced wires, improved grounds, replaced terminals, tied down wires, etc. It was worth it but it was still a "patch job". It held for the past twelve years but I always wanted better. When I did my frame up restoration, I bought a brand new Painless "Universal Truck" system for it. I wanted a longer harness so I could mount my fuse box in a better place with better access. (I chose to mount the new fuse box in a military ammo can under the hood for easy access and waterproofness... I think I just made up a word...) Anyway, I haven't finished the electrical yet, but it is getting there.

If I was you, I would save up and replace the electrical system. If you can't afford it, I would carefully and thoroughly go through each wire and replace, repair, crimp, ground, etc., etc., until you got it dependable.

Take care,
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Unread 08-13-2012, 07:14 AM   #24
AggieBoxer
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I had family in town this weekend, so I wasn't able to get as much done as I wanted to, but I spent some time yesterday evening doing odd jobs. I removed the windshield and started the process of removing the transmission. I had to stop so I do some research to make sure I was doing it correctly! When I removed the cross member for the transmission, I saw some transmission fluid leaking. I have the jack in place so when I get home tonight, I'm going to try my hand at lowering it down. As always, here are some pics. Sorry for the poor quality...I'm using my iPhone!



Removed the windshield. I've loosened the hinges but will have to wait until the dash is removed to finish.



Here's a pic of the cross member of the transmission. If you look closely, you can see how wet it is.



What my finger looked like after touching the cross member.



Removed! When I removed it, the transmission housing dropped about 6 inches, so I want to get it out ASAP!



Boxer's public enemy #1 right now!



The shifter...I've already removed the screws to loosen the plate.

My goal this week is to drop the transmission and perhaps get the tub off, which is going to be a PITA.

BTW thanks for the electrical advice. Most of the wiring seems to be in piss poor shape so I'll do my best to replace as needed, although I might be doing the cut and crimp method!

On the other hand, does anybody have a recommendation on how to remove rust from bolts, nuts, and washers?
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Unread 08-13-2012, 07:25 AM   #25
woodchuck1
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There is nothing painless about installing a "painless" brand wiring harness. but it does seem to be a good product. Gives you lots of extra space for accessories.
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Unread 08-13-2012, 11:08 AM   #26
RjTack
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On the other hand, does anybody have a recommendation on how to remove rust from bolts, nuts, and washers?[/QUOTE]

PB Blaster, or if you can, heat it with your torch.
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Unread 08-13-2012, 12:45 PM   #27
1SASjeepster
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I have always used a rotary wire brush on a drill. I chuck the bolts, nuts and washers in my bench vice and clean away. Once done, I push the bolts through a piece of cardboard and spray them with paint... everything except the threads. The threads, I hit with "anti-sieze" and they are good to go. I do this for bolts that I can't replace for any reason... but generally I replace them with better grade bolts.

Take care,
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Unread 08-13-2012, 01:02 PM   #28
FamousJerry
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That cant be the stock rollbar for an 84? looks like a different than factory rollbar. Looks to be bolted to the top of the wheel well and not the floor and rear wheel well like on mine. Looks like a great foundation for a rebuild .
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Unread 08-15-2012, 08:44 AM   #29
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SASjeepster View Post
I have always used a rotary wire brush on a drill. I chuck the bolts, nuts and washers in my bench vice and clean away. Once done, I push the bolts through a piece of cardboard and spray them with paint... everything except the threads. The threads, I hit with "anti-sieze" and they are good to go. I do this for bolts that I can't replace for any reason... but generally I replace them with better grade bolts.

Take care,
This is exactly right. Wire-wheel them with a drill or a bench grinder. But there's nothing special about your nuts and bolts. They are easily available so don't be concerned about tossing some/all of them. I like the deal you get a Tractor Supply for nuts/bolts. They sell them by the pound.

Don'y forget the anti-seize...
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Unread 08-15-2012, 11:19 AM   #30
jeepwhore
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You got a good start on things! When you try to pull the transmission make sure you support the engine under the oil pan first. In fact, whenever the cross member is removed you should try and support the engine or transmission to prevent it from dropping like you experienced. Not a big deal since you are in tear down mode but for future maintenance you'll want to support them to prevent the valve cover from hitting the firewall, and/or fan from hitting the rad.
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