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#1 | |
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Registered User
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1983 CJ7 "Conch Cruiser"
I purchased this CJ about two years ago for $1,500.00. Since then, I have been running down vacuum leaks a and carburetor problems. It has been running like a sewing machine for about six months.
Now I am getting ready to pull the tub and start cleaning it up. I worked out a deal with a body guy near my home. He is willing to let me drop the tub and other parts off this winter. He will take about two months to clean everything up and repaint factory Sebring Red. He says it will take about $3,000.00. While he has the tub and other body work for two months, I will be cleaning up the frame and other stuff. Link to Photobucket Album. 1983 Jeep CJ7 pictures by ConchCruiser - Photobucket ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Tub seems to be in really good shape. $3k sounds a bit too much for a paint job.
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1982 CJ8 1986 CJ7 1979 CJ5 258 I6 3 speed 1999 Dodge Durango |
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#3 |
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Not if he is painting underneath and inside and with Red the paint is more expensive plus all the rust clean up. I think its a good price.
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#4 |
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NOT a Web Wheeler
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Unfreaking-believable....1,500!!!
Nice CJ, I look forward to seeing the new paint
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1983 CJ-7, 258, T177, D300, 3.54’s and 32” KM2’s Many thanks to those with contributions to my build: twoleos617, Jim1611, Yellow85CJ, kickingprop, CJnPA, Fatman, Grewel, -boom and VACJ7...oh crap, and EXPOSED too!!! Money Pit >>>http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/daves-83-cj7-build-891652/ ...a jeep ensures you don't have a drinking, drug or woman problem: always dirty, broke and tired. "ACAD_Cowboy" |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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$3000 is a great price for a full paint job on the tub and other parts. as long as its a good paint job
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#6 |
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Corripe Cervisiam
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Amazing deal! That CJ looks fantastic. Personally I think the exterior paint looks fine. I wouldn't change a thing. The rust spots on the tub should be treated but I would deal with those in targeted areas with a wire wheel and some rust converter. But of course I'm cheap
![]() I think $3000 for a complete tub paint job could be fair assuming that all of the proper preparation work is done and the person painting has good experience and knows what they're doing.
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My 1985 CJ-7 repair and refurb thread |
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#7 | ||
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Registered User
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Quote:
(but then, as mentioned, I am a bit partial to Sebring Red '83 CJ7's) ![]() Hoss
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Don't mind me, I'm just another FNG around here...
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I would pull the seats and roll bar and other stuff out of the inside, about a 2 hour job if the fasteners aren't rusted solid. Get a knotted wire wheel and a cheap 4.5" grinder and go to work on the rust. Then go over everything with 100 grit, vacuum, clean with a tack cloth and then use a dewaxer/degreaser. Then hit it with a 4 liter $100 U-pol Raptor 2 part urethane kit, easy even for a neubie. Then have your paint man just prep and paint the outside and the roll bar. I'll bet you will save a bunch. And if you strip all of the stuff off the outside like the flairs that won't get painted, you might save even more. U-Pol comes black or clear if you want to tint it with 10% color base paint to match the outside color.
U-Pol Raptor Truck Bed Liner Kit - TP Tools & Equipment And you might find that the U-Pol works nice on the frame too. No I don't sell it, just like the way it turned out on my tub. Your exterior is really clean, I would think long and hard about a repaint at this time. Clearly not a Michigan CJ with all of our road salt, you would have many rust perforations by now. And expect some extra rust under the roll bar plates when you remove it, water gets trapped there. ![]()
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'84 CJ7, '07 5.3 LMG Chevy, 33's, 4.10, rear Detroit Locker, FG Tub, HOK Tangelo Pearl Build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/ole-jays-cj7-5-3-chevy-swap-1287392/ Last edited by cj7ole; 07-29-2010 at 12:44 PM.. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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The body guy said he did one last year. He know exactly what he is getting into and seems to know what he is talking about. I shot him a few questions, and he knew exactly what I was talking about. He knew where to look for rust as well.
I did think about letting the paint go for a while. I just can't stand to see the rust on it anymore. I'm going for the full restoration so I can fully enjoy the jeep. |
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#10 |
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Member
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I'd wheel and treat those rust areas,pulling the roll bar to get underneath. Then a pro grade compounding and wax on that exterior. Red paint dulls it's own way,and will respond to restoration amazingly.I would not go through all that trouble with a jeep in that condition when I could get 90% of the same results in a weekend and couple of franklins and elbow grease.It looks very recoverable as is.
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#11 | ||
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Registered User
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![]() ![]() ![]() I treated (rust convertor), touched up (with a <$30 color matched quart of paint), then buffed and polished to this ![]() ![]() I'm not trying to talk you out of spending your money, I'm just sayin'... ![]() Hoss
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Don't mind me, I'm just another FNG around here...
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#12 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Registered User
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As for buffing it out. You can not see it in the photos, but the hood has some specs of rust on it. The rust specs are found here and there all over the body.
I really want to get all that rust off. |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Did you use the standard 8 foot bed kit for the inside of your tub? |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Sounds as though you have made up your mind how you'd like to procede. I wish I could find a 1500 dollar CJ that looked that good. Good luck with your project and take lots of pictures.
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