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Unread 11-14-2014, 04:18 PM   #1
Garyr2138
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1983 CJ7 6 bolt hubs ** Updated with Hub Seal Question**

I apologize for posting without a thorough search and research on this topic. I am in a bind and need to get my ride rolling this weekend if possible. A little background, my current ride is a 1983 CJ3 Dana 30 front end with the 5 bolt lockout hubs. Long story short, I tried to replace rotors and reused the lug bolts and when I tried to get them to seat, they spun on a couple of them and rounded the splines smooth on the rotor and the bolt. This is my excuse to get 6 bolt hubs and new Mile Marker lockouts so I am not terribly upset about it all. I researched the part and think I need Omix hub 16705.04 or Crown hub 5358568H and then Mile Marker locking hub 457. I will add new bearings and races as well but those I can get no problem, I just need someone who has been there to confirm my part numbers so I can get the order in this weekend and if all goes well, get the part tomorrow. Thanks a ton for taking the time to look this over and letting me know.

Gary

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Year & Model: 1983 CJ7
Engine: 258
Transmission: T5
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: AMC20
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15

Last edited by Garyr2138; 11-16-2014 at 09:36 AM.. Reason: change of title
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Unread 11-14-2014, 04:57 PM   #2
CSP
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The Omix and Crown part numbers are correct.

If your existing bearings and races aren't damaged you can re-use them. Just be sure to keep the bearing with the race it's turning in now for all four sets.
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Unread 11-14-2014, 05:02 PM   #3
Garyr2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
The Omix and Crown part numbers are correct.

If your existing bearings and races aren't damaged you can re-use them. Just be sure to keep the bearing with the race it's turning in now for all four sets.
Thank you for the quick reply. Does that MM hub number look correct also? Thanks!
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Year & Model: 1983 CJ7
Engine: 258
Transmission: T5
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: AMC20
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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Unread 11-14-2014, 05:30 PM   #4
Spieg8
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Yes MM 457 is correct for 6-bolt. Did you find some new lugs?
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Unread 11-14-2014, 06:05 PM   #5
Garyr2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Yes MM 457 is correct for 6-bolt. Did you find some new lugs?
Actually not yet, still have to find those.
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Year & Model: 1983 CJ7
Engine: 258
Transmission: T5
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: AMC20
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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Unread 11-16-2014, 09:32 AM   #6
Garyr2138
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Hub Seal question

Due to some changes, I am sticking with the OEM hubs for now, $$$ is preventing the change to 6 bolt hubs for a while. SO with that in mind......

Ok, got things ready to go..... Question about wheel seals. SO when I pulled the hubs these are the seals I pulled from the hubs:

Clearly there is a flat lip on the top edge of the seal and the rubber gasket is attached to the inner portion of that lip.

So, I went to the parts store and asked for replacement seals based on everything I read here, it was a Timken 4131 which looks like:

This is quite different than what was on there so I can only assume the PO used the wrong seal. Now the parts clerk did give me an option of the National Oil Seals #3945 which looks like:

This appears to be a more accurate replacement for the one I took off, but looking at ALL of the parts info I can find including the Jeep Parts Manual Crown Vintage Jeep Vehicles parts manual I get part number 5356675 which appears to look like the seal I removed (first photo). Just to double check I went to the Timken site and plugged in the info for my Jeep and again came up with the 4131 seal.

For those that have done it, which it the correct one? I am working on it today and want to get them done so I appreciate any replies on a lazy Sunday morning!
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Year & Model: 1983 CJ7
Engine: 258
Transmission: T5
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: AMC20
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15

Last edited by Garyr2138; 11-16-2014 at 09:43 AM.. Reason: more info
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Unread 11-16-2014, 10:39 AM   #7
jeepwhore
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What does the other side of the timken seal look like? I don't think you'll have an issue using either one. What the seal looks like is irrelevant, as long as the I.D. of the sealing part itself is the same between the two.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
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Unread 11-16-2014, 10:51 AM   #8
Garyr2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
What does the other side of the timken seal look like? I don't think you'll have an issue using either one. What the seal looks like is irrelevant, as long as the I.D. of the sealing part itself is the same between the two.
Measuring the ID looks to be the same between all three. Just found it odd there was no outer flat lip like the original, wasn't sure if it was necesscary to help retain grease that slips by the rubber seal. Here is a comparison of all three seals side by side. Left to right is the one I removed, the National Oil Seal and the Timken.

and
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Year & Model: 1983 CJ7
Engine: 258
Transmission: T5
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: AMC20
Tires: BF Goodrich T/A 33" 10.5 R15
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