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02-23-2011, 06:48 PM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: , New Hampshire
Posts: 100
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Looks like a fun project! I'm rebuilding my CJ5 currently too, but it seems have quite a bit more rust...(no floors left)  I spent a lot of time wacking the front pump seal out too. I used a screwdriver and a nice sized hammer and tapped the edge out slowly. They really made it seal well and corrode in place, which is much better than the alternative of leaking all the time  You should get a new timing chain, it can't hurt.
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02-23-2011, 08:22 PM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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I agree with both of you, I'll just go ahead and buy a new chain. I looked a little closer at it today, when you put tension on it you can see where the chain rides up the sides of the teeth. Might as well just get it over with. Skerr I hadnt thought about the oil pump until now  . It had good pressure when I had it running. I'll have to run down to Carquest tomorrow and see what prices on the chain and pump are. The chain is a definite, the pump... well we'll see. I found the timing chain with new sprockets for a little over $30. Hopefully they will have a good price at Carquest
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02-23-2011, 08:24 PM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carvex
Looks like a fun project! I'm rebuilding my CJ5 currently too, but it seems have quite a bit more rust...(no floors left)  I spent a lot of time wacking the front pump seal out too. I used a screwdriver and a nice sized hammer and tapped the edge out slowly. They really made it seal well and corrode in place, which is much better than the alternative of leaking all the time  You should get a new timing chain, it can't hurt.
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Thanks for the tip. I guess I will just have to be a little more patient when I try and remove it tomorrow.
To tell you the truth who knows how much rust is on mine. I'm kind of dreading the bodywork. When I bought it I didnt realize how lucky I was with the condition, in my mind any rust is too much. At least they sell panels for them at dirt cheap prices
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02-23-2011, 08:46 PM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: , New Hampshire
Posts: 100
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It was a surprise for me. I had floor panels that were patched in small pieces here and there. I cut out a rusty section and found there were 4 layers of floor on the drivers side. Each time a previous owner just layed down a new panel over the rusty one. So...they're all gone now and a nice clean one is going down.
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02-24-2011, 06:12 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carvex
It was a surprise for me. I had floor panels that were patched in small pieces here and there. I cut out a rusty section and found there were 4 layers of floor on the drivers side. Each time a previous owner just layed down a new panel over the rusty one. So...they're all gone now and a nice clean one is going down.
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Some people really shouldnt be allowed to own vehicles
Well I stopped by carquest on my way home tonight. They want $57 for the timing chain, and $70 or more for the oil pump. So it looks like I'll be ordering the chain online, and I think I will hold off on the oil pump, like I said it had great pressure, and I can always use an excuse to get greasy.
I'm gonna get a quick dinner, then I'll probably start cleaning up my head, oil pan and such. I got a Haynes in the mail yesterday. Only 4 bucks. So now when I'm putting it all back together I know how tight to torque them
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02-24-2011, 06:22 PM
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#36
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: , New Hampshire
Posts: 100
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I like to use Rock Auto to get a general idea on the price of parts. I looked up the timing chain for you on there; there's a few options but they range from $17 to $68. The only problem with that website is that you never really know what you're getting. There's super off-brand stuff on there that just barely passes an inspection all the way up to top of the line. If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. On something like a timing chain, I wouldn't go with the Chinese knockoff, the fit will hit the shan if it breaks.
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02-24-2011, 11:33 PM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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Well I ended up ordering a comp cams timing chain and sprockets, after all was said and done it cost me $53. Not a huge savings but hey its 10 bucks. Plus its made by Comp Cam, you know your getting a good product.
Tonight I flipped the engine over and started taking off the valve cover and head. Now keep in mind since I'm working in my uncles shop I'm trying to be quick and clean. Well my uncle comes out and encourages me to make a bigger mess and take longer. He talked me into having the cylinders honed and new rings and such. So we went ahead and tore right into it
This Jeep has been sort of an emotional roller coaster. I have days like the one with the U-joints that make me question what I got myself into, and then some days are like today. Look at those cylinder walls! they are immaculate. You can just barely tell where theres a wear line. I know the guys that rebuild engines locally, so I'm going to head down there tomorrow. I'm hoping they say it doesnt need to be honed, and can help set me up with new rings and bearings. I'll go ahead and have them clean everything up while they are at it, and rebuild the head.
I gotta say I'm pretty happy with how things turned out tonight. Sure its a few more bucks out of my pocket. But its entirely possible that for a couple hundred dollars I'll have a rebuilt engine. I have to wonder if it was rebuilt not that long ago. The PO owned it for 11 years, you would have to think if he had done it he would have used it as a selling point. The odometer reads 49 thousand miles. Of course I've assumed it has 149, so theres no way it looks this good without some work done.
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02-25-2011, 08:51 AM
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#38
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 315
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Looks great! IF your uncle is looking for another nephew let me know.
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02-26-2011, 07:29 PM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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I'll let you know if he is
I took the engine to have it worked on. The guy took one look at the cam and instantly noticed something I didnt, a flat spot. Well now I'm getting a new cam, new lifters, rods etc. It will literally be a new engine when I get it back. Cost you ask? More then I was intending, $750. With everything I'm getting though its a heck of a deal
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02-26-2011, 11:55 PM
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#40
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Monument, CO
Posts: 1,006
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Hey there.. everything looks great, however, when the crank is out of the engine you should store it standing on it's end. If you put it on it's side like in that one pic it can get damaged.
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02-27-2011, 08:27 PM
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#41
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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02-27-2011, 09:41 PM
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#42
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Jeep Vacuum
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,166
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 MAW!!!  Looking really good and congrats on the good luck!! $750 is nothing for a new engine, but you're gonna want to get that oil pump now!!  It's just good insurance...
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02-27-2011, 09:45 PM
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#43
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 2,103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hybrid Jeep
Hey there.. everything looks great, however, when the crank is out of the engine you should store it standing on it's end. If you put it on it's side like in that one pic it can get damaged.
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could you elaborate? Never heard of such a thing! Im new to the engine building scene.....
gonna learn me something!
Ben
__________________
[QUOTE=Gregg79CJ7304;11634021]Great minds think alike, but so do serial killers......Thanks.[/QUOTE]
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02-27-2011, 10:54 PM
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#44
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City, Colorado
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr
 MAW!!!  Looking really good and congrats on the good luck!! $750 is nothing for a new engine, but you're gonna want to get that oil pump now!!  It's just good insurance...
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That $750 for the rebuild even includes a new oil pump
benullman; You dont want to store a crank on its end because its more likely to scratch some of the connecting surfaces, which could be catasrophic. Also if you do a quick search online there are a lot of people that will argue storing on its side can cause the crankshaft to deform. Thats how I understand it, although I'd love to hear otherwise if I'm wrong
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02-28-2011, 05:37 AM
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#45
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 2,103
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Interesting. Its one of those those things I have seen both ways and never thought much of it. Makes sense though!
Ben
__________________
[QUOTE=Gregg79CJ7304;11634021]Great minds think alike, but so do serial killers......Thanks.[/QUOTE]
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