Originally Posted by Electrican
Thanks JeepHammer here is where i am now.
With the coil wire unhooked i have "Bright Light" on red wire with key in run position.
Not normal, since you have a 'Bright Light', that means the resistor wire is removed or bypassed, but you already figrued that out.
This is VERY hard on the module.
The resistor wire is there to keep too much current from hitting the switching transistor in the module (Via the ignition coil)
Without it, the module doesn't live long.
Consider a module that will take full power, like a HEI type module.
Look here for wiring diagrams and instructions,
Same "Bright Light" with key in start 'cranking' position on red wire.
On the green wire terminal i have "Bright Light" at run and cranking position.
No 'flashing' was present in any position.
That *USUALLY* means the module is cooked.
You can remove it and take it to the discount stores to have it tested.
If it comes back the module is 'BAD',
Then stick it in the oven at about 150 degrees for about 30 minutes to soften up the potting material,
Pry out the 'Guts', and use the housing for your "HEI Hybrid" connections using an HEI style module in the case of the DuraSpark module.
"Stealth HEI" is what we call this, and John Strenk had a really good idea when he came up with this!
You WILL loose the 'Hot/Hard Start' circuit the DuraSpark module has, so make sure you Initial Timing is reasonable and you shouldn't have any problems with this.
Somthing i havent figured out is there is no "resistor" installed on the red wire.
However there is a wire that is spliced on the "big" red wire that comes through firewall and down to ign. module harness and and is spliced just before the positive coil terminal wire.
Is this normal or posably the resistance wire??
It's the resistor wire more than likely, or a wire that someone has spliced in to replace the resistor wire.
Your 'Ignition' power wire comes though the fire wall,
Then a Factory Splice splits the current off in three directions.
One goes to the module, the 'Red' wire.
One goes to the 'Excite' wire on the alternator. (small, stiff 'Brown' resistor wire)
One is the resistor wire that goes to the ignition coil.
Since you have access to the 'Splice',
You can use a Volt/Ohm meter set to 10 or 20 Ohms and test both ends of the resistor wire.
It should show up at 1.35 Ohms ('Ω' symbol on the meter) if it's still in place and working.
If you get less than ABOUT 1.35 Ohms, the resistor wire has probably been replaced.
If you intend to use the factory module, then you can add a ceramic resistor of about the same value to the line on the way to the coil.
If you get quite a bit more than 1.35 Ohms, the resistor wire has probably partly cooked and needs replaced *IF* you keep a 'Factory' module in place.
*IF* you don't intend to keep the factory module, you can replace a bad resistor wire with a straight run of primarily wire with no ill effects.
You need a resistor to keep the factory DuraSpark module alive.
I also continued on testing the module power circuits.
The large red (which has the soldered connection going to the positive coil wire and then to the ign. module harness) is getting "Bright Light" when key is in run position.
The Blue wire that connects to white wire through harness is "Bright Light" when engine is cranking and goes dead when cranking stops.
Red is the 'Run' circuit, Blue is the 'Crank', 'Staring' or 'Hard Start' circuit that retards timing about 8 degrees when you are cranking the engine.
I also done some additional troubleshooting and probing and checked the black wire at the distributor harness connector to ground and was showing continuity.
Showing a 'Ground' and supplying an ADEQUATE 'Ground' are two different things.
Good to know the wire is working, but the distributor often isn't supplying the circuit with ADEQUATE 'Ground' for the primary ignition circuit.
Moving parts, oil reside, ect. collect up on the base of the distributor, and it often doesn't supply adequate 'Ground' to the primary ignition system.
Splicing in a DEDICATED electrical 'Ground' to the primary system often stops a lot of 'Issues'.
If you are going to do this, splice into the HARNESS so you can change modules & distributor triggers without problems.
Also while in the same connector the other two wires had the same continuity to ground.
Again this was tested at the distributor harness connector. Is this normal to have continuity to all three wires?
If you used the test light to do that, then you cooked the signal receiving transistors in the module.
They are only designed for about 1 volt, and a 12 volt test light will kill them.
12 volts run through the distributor stator will kill it also,
That's why I tell people to use a multi-meter for checking distributor stator resistance,
And for checking stator continuity to ground.
(Checking for stator 'Grounding', which should NOT happen)
Stator should show somewhere between 400 & 800 Ohms,
With about 625 being 'Normal' from most stators.
Since the ignition module was in stock and only $20 at our local auto store i picked on up and installed and i have the same problems as before. (will be replacing with a Borg when they get in stock)
You would not believe how many stock modules of the $20-$30 variety are junk right off the shelf!
That's why John Strenk came up with the 'Stealth HEI' design, because you can't get a reasonable DuraSpark replacment anymore.
I tell people to get a Borg Warner module because they have a life time warranty, so when they fail (and they WILL fail) they can get a new one without further expense.
The dedicated ground wire will help keep ANY of the DuraSpark modules alive,
And making sure they don't get false triggers from induction in the wiring harness will help keep them alive.
Still i am having the same problems as before and so far have replaced the coil, starter solenoid and ing. module.
I have checked for spark several times and places and the ONLY time i get any kind of spark is from the center coil wire when the key is turned from "run" position to "off" position.
There is no spark at all while cranking engine from the middle "spark plug wire" (dont know what that wire is called).
COIL WIRE is what the high voltage wire from coil to center of distributor cap is called...
Have your modules (you have two now) tested at the local autoparts stores.
They test for free, and this will tell you if they are working or not.
*IF* the modules ARE working,
Then it's time to investigate why they aren't being triggered correctly...
If the module is VERIFIED 'Working',
Then it almost has to be the distributor 'Trigger',
Or the wiring between distributor and module someplace.
You need a Volt-Ohm meter (Wally World, about $20) to test the 'Trigger' in the distributor.
(and once you learn to use a Multi-Meter, you will never know how you did without one!)
Try this diagram for testing the distributor trigger,
And this is the entire wiring harness drawn out so you can figure out where things go in context.
This will let you find both ends of every wire in the ignition system so you can test them...
Need some more input and ideas as i am stumped why this "just" started doing this.
The vehicle is 25+ years old, and things don't throw up a flag when they are ready to die!
Leaving the key on with engine not running, moving wires in brittle connectors, corrosion ect. all play into things when you work on one of these old beasts...
I tell people to take their connectors apart, clean them, and put dielectric grease in them when they are 'Messing' with something for a reason!
You ALWAYS have to be on the lookout for loose bolts, cracked wires, corrosion, ect. since most of us are working on vehicles with little or no maintinance since they were built! (ain't Previous Owners Grand?
Don't feel 'LOST'...
I'll work with you until we figure this thing out!
I've done this MANY times before right here on this forum,
And I'm not going anywhere unless I loose internet service!
Electronics isn't something they teach in most schools,
But I have a pretty firm grasp on the wiring of Jeeps,
So I'll work with you until we get this thing figured out!
It's not 'PASS/FAIL', it's plugging away until we get it figured out!