[trailhead2004]

Semi-newb here. I’ve purchased the FSM for the truck and have gone through it and still have a few questions. At this point I’m pretty sure I’m working on a 49 state rig without all of the parts and that is where the problem comes in. I can’t figure out where some of the components are supposed to be located.

Vehicle: 1980 CJ7, I6 258 cu. in., Manual Transmission, Standard Cooling System, No Air Conditioning. Basically this appears to be the Light Truck designation with a 2 bbl carb, standard cooling system, no AC vehicle.

Background: The truck looks like a 49 state vehicle purchased with many (I’m assuming) of the required components missing. It was registered off-road only by the PO and he got it registered without problem because of the smog laws in Nevada. Whatever, not my problem specifically, but now I need to get it smogged in CA. The vehicle has headers on it, probably Hedman dual-outlet headers (2x 3 into 1 headers).

Goal: To have the vehicle smog ready so I can make it a semi-daily driver. I would like to drive it on the street a few weeks a year and have it road ready so I can drive it to my wheeling places versus towing it to where I want to wheel it. I’ll do what I need to do to get it smogged with the carb initially and will probably switch to a Howell FI (came with the deal) later but I want to take this in steps to get to the goal. The PO put a lot of time into the suspension and driveline but didn’t really consider daily driving so the vacuum system is a mess.

Assumptions: At this point it looks like this rig has a Carter BBD-2 carb on it based on the pictures/diagrams in the FSM. I’m pretty good at detecting details like port location, etc. so I think this assumption is solid. Let’s call this a fact and move on from here.
Note: I cannot find a publication date on the FSM but it appears to be a FSM without the supplement sections.
1. Looking at the FSM, there are 3 vacuum diagrams that appear to relate to the I6 in California. The first one is on page V-4, the second on page V-5, and the third on page V-13.
My assumption is that the first diagram (page V-4) relates to the Carter BBD-2 (page IJ-2), the second diagram (page V-5) relates to the Motorcraft 2100-2 (page IJ-21), and the third diagram (page V-13) relates to the Motorcraft 2150-2 (page IJ-34) carburetor.
2. I’m assuming I need the “Air Guard” air pump because all of the I6 vacuum diagrams (California and 49 state) have an air pump listed. The air pump is definitely missing so do I need to replace it (see 2.f below)?
3. Based on some posts in this forum I think that the Howell will work fine if I’m running the stock exhaust manifold and a fairly stock camshaft.

Questions:
1. Can anyone refute assumptions 1 through 3?
2. I’m trying to figure out where some of the vacuum components should be installed.
2a. It looks like the Diverter Valve should be mounted on the driver’s side near the back of the engine. Is this true?
2b. Is the Diverter Valve bracket mounted to the engine or the frame?
2c. Where should I be looking for the Spark CTO Switch? The diagrams look like it goes near the back of the engine on the driver’s side.
2d. Where should I be looking for the EGR CTO? The diagrams look like it goes near the front of the engine on the driver’s side.
2e. Is the TAC Signal one of the two ports that come off of the back of the air cleaner housing, the other one being the one that hooks up to the TAC?
2f. Do I need to worry about all of the vacuum components listed above if I run the Howell FI system? I think the answer to this is yes but I don’t know.

The end, finally:
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help out with these questions. I’m looking forward to a lot of fun in my new CJ but I need a little help getting there.

[SD84CJ7]

I dont want to discourage you, but prepare yourself for a headache and be ready to open up the wallet.

[sanddrag]

I believe this link is for a later year computer controlled BBD (like my 84), but a lot of it may still apply to yours. Table of Contents

[sherlocktk]

Save your self the headache and go with the howell. You are going to put on all this stuff, and then take it all right back off. It took me about 12 hours, but I was not trying that hard. Took about 3 days, having fun with it and figuring out how it (howell and jeep) all worked.

I just got rid of all that smog stuff from my 84, and put on the howell kit JP1 for california, If you dont have a california kit, The only difference is some ecm programming and the vehicle speed sensor, besides that, its the same kit. Im sure you can call them and get the "extra parts" The main expensive stuff is the same. You might need to figure out how to get that speed sensor installed.

The only "Smog" related things needed with the howell are the EGR valve, adn the Evap canister, the rest is basically an intake and exhaust with a Cat.

[av8tr]

I agree with what is said above. I recently purchased my Scrambler from a guy in TX. They had tossed several of the smog parts. After doing some research, I figured the cost and the time would be that same to install fuel injection. Everything they took off, except the cat, would have come off anyhow. I just installed the fuel injection and a cat and couldn't be happier.

You will find it harder to find someone to smog it for you. Even with all the correct stickers no one wanted to attempt an out of state altered vehicle. I ended up at a referee, they told me I didn't even need to be there. Trick is to find someone who will be willing to perform the test and that you can trust.

Make sure you have some sort of documentation saying the header is for your model/year. I have heard of people hassled because the header said it was for a 81 CJ7 with an inline six and they installed it on a 81 CJ8 with the same engine (not me). Common sense says that they are the same but some people take what they read too serious. I think it depends on the tech and what mode he/she is in.

Good Luck.

[trailhead2004]

Hey guys,

First, I wanted to thank you for posting a reply and apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I am internet challenged at home because I live in the sticks and do zero surfing on teh weekends.

That said, I rethought my problem after reading your posts yesterday and did a little reading and resaerch. I pulled the installation instructions for the Howell unit out and re-read them. A lot to digest. But what ended up hapenning was that I looked through the rest of the instructions and found that I really don't need much of the OE smog equipment as sherlocktk said.

My problem now became one of the rest of the exhaust system. I have the cat but the header is not EO numbered, so I need to end up changing the header. I could try to get it past the smog guys but I'm a little too honest for that. Or at least fearful of getting caught and being the one the feds want to make an example of.

So I'm looking for another header and I found it to be a PITA looking for the "50 state legal" statement everywhere. I thought I should try the ARB and lo and behold, there is actually a useable website to research the EO#'s for parts. I flipped it around a little and used the ctrl-F find function to look for "Jeep CJ" and found a lot of stuff. It was difficult to narrow down the years but many of the EO#'s cover several years.

I noticed a trend that there were only 4 companies making EO#'ed headers so I found a different page that let me search by manufacturer. Yeehaw! Basically, what I found was that for the 1980 CJ7 with a 258 in it, Pacesetter is the only company making a legal header.

So now I need to buy one.

Anyway, thanks again for the input guys, I really appreciate it! Without your statements and prodding I probably would have taken the wrong path to success.

trailhead

[sherlocktk]

besides howell's instructions, I also referenced these two sites below for good writeups on how to install the howell. They make cutting all that wiring and vacuum stuff not nearly as scary.

Howell TBI Throttle Body Fuel Injection Installation Jeep CJ Emissions

Busted Jeep.Com! - In The Garage - CJ Howell TBI Fuel Injection

If you get stuck along the way PM me or something, its still fresh in my mind.

The only "special" tool you need is a brake/fuel line cutter, and that was like 10 bucks at any auto parts store. I did need to buy some various size "T's" to hook up all the vacuum stuff when done, and replaced all the vacuum hoses with new, (there is so much less though, its easy)

[RetiredSERE]

Best suggestion would be to leave the Jeep alone and move out of California...

[trailhead2004]

Originally Posted by RetiredSERE

Best suggestion would be to leave the Jeep alone and move out of California...

You have no idea how much I would like that. Kalifornia is a real PITA with their regulation of everything and liberals handing out money to everyone who feels they deserve it. Is there a smiley with a USSR flag? He should be frowning!

sherlocktk, thanks for the offer. I'll shoot you a pm with a few basic questions later.

trailhead

[trailhead2004]

So I did some more reading last night and I think I have everything all figured out now. I ordered a new Pacesetter header yesterday but won't see it for a couple of weeks. I'll get started on the Howell installation in a week or so because I also have a brand new head and aluminum valve cover to throw on. So I'm effectively taking the whole top of the motor off and replacing everything.

After re-reading the Howell instructions I figured out that I need to buy a dual CTO switch from a later computer carb truck. I think I now have everything I need.

Thanks again for the help guys, I think I am actually learning something!

trailhead

[sherlocktk]

autozone had the best price when I got my dual CTO. 24.99 Part no e960 in there system.

This page has all the cross reference numbers
http://www.drbob.tqhosting.com/tech/cto.html

[trailhead2004]

I finally finished the install on the Howell TBI this weekend. Overall, I think the kit is pretty good but the instructions could maybe use a little work.

The important thing is that the engine started right up when I got done. It cranked without starting for about 10 to 15 seconds, then fired and ran rough for about 30 seconds. After it cleared itself up it started in on the high idle. I let it burn the header paint for a little while and it eventually slowed down to approximately 750 RPM.

I ended up going with a 1988 aluminum intake and Pacesetter headers. I swapped the intake because of the coolant jacket in it. Using my original intake, I would have had to put the CTO on the side of the block and I was worried about melting the vacuum lines. The problem this caused is that the header is set up for earlier model intakes, similar to the one I removed. So I had to make a new EGR tube. It turned out ok fit-wise but now I need to make another in steel. At least now I know what I'm doing. I ordered a bunch of stainless steel fittings from McMaster-Carr and should get that stuff tomorrow. For the short term I'm running with the EGR Tube blocked and the EGR valve disabled.

Additional tasks completed - I installed the Chevy Blazer blower motor upgrade, made a special bracket for the ECM, and an adaptor for the throttle linkage. Additionally, I removed about 5 pounds of ugly fat under the dash. The PO had done some less than desireable looking electrical upgrades that I just couldn't bear to look at. This also made it easier to get the heater plenum in and out.

Thanks to everyone who helped out with this!

trailhead

[trailhead2004]

Well I finally got the Jeep smogged Friday. It was amazing how low the emissions were. The technician said nearly every Honda Civic he sees puts out more junk than that.

It runs phenominally but I'm not pleased with the gas mileage. I checked a few other posts and it appears that I should look into the return line to the tank. I know I had to really work to cram the return hose on the fitting on the TBI so I'm guessing there is at least a possibility that the line is small enough that it may be restricting flow back to the tank.

The only issue I had was that it wouldn't pass the fuel tank pressurization check. For those of you outside Kalifornia, just in case they don't check it in your state, they put a sealed cap on the fuel tank and pressurize it to 12 psi. There is an acceptable leakdown rate but I don't know what that is. Anyway, so the tech goes to run the test and the system never showed anything above 2 psi. He brought out this kick-a$$ smoke generator deal and hooked it up to the filler and it turns out the filler neck was leaking. The outer-most joint next to the o-ring on the cap was not sealed, just spot welded at two or three points. He whipped up a little JB Weld and a half-hour later it passed the pressure test. SO THE LESSON IS... If your vehicle has to pass the tank pressure check and you need to change the filler neck, seal that joint before you install the filler neck.

trailhead

[sherlocktk]

Whats your gas mileage,

On mine I usually get about 10-11 city and 14-15 highway. (That is before the regear) Thats with 3.31 ratio and 31 tires. I just switched to 4.56 and 33's, but it wont be rolling again until wednesday, Ill be interested to see what your mileage is. I have a hunch my mileage will increase due to less stress on the engine than before.

California got me on that evap test too. I had to replace every hose as they were all leaking, but my guy did not have a smoke machine, as I had to go to "test only". at least I am safe for another year.

Not to nitpick here but this is for others reading this thread from california, they pressurize the system to 14 inch columns of water pressure (about .5 psi) and make sure it does not loose more than 8 inches of WC in a 2 minute timeframe. On a side note, if you have 2 tanks, you dont need this test, so if you cant pass maybe you sould "add" an aux tank. -- Done with off topic.

[ctm]

trailhead, could you please describe how you made the EGR tube and the parts it is made of. I need to make one up. thanks.