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1979 CJ7 Build Thread
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#61 | |
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Registered User
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Still working on the wiring today. Spent the entire day under the dash hooking everything up only to find out that the Jeep wouldn't start. On my behalf, I am working without a Haynes manual, so this is all going by memory and common sense. Gonna get back at it tomorrow. I really want to hear this Jeep run!
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#62 |
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Registered User
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Been a little while since my last update, so here goes:
I have been working on the wiring, adding in the YJ dash while still using my CJ harness and a few pieces of a YJ harness for the heater controls and the headlight switch. I will also use the YJ fuel pump harness eventually as well, but not really that worried about that one right now. Last week I finally got it starting and running on a regular basis, and thought everything was great....until today. More on that one in a little while. After getting her running, I decided it was time to completely bolt on the rear diamond plate corners. ![]() I am not a huge fan of these things, but I already had them, and they covered up the comp cut on the YJ tub. Actually came out surprisingly well. Next, I installed my flush mount tail lights (backup lights will come later). This was a bit more of an ordeal being that I didn't have a 4" hole saw, and I couldn't find my jig saw, and I was too lazy to go out and buy another one just for this. Therefor, after MANY 3/8" holes drilled in a circle, and a little help from a sawsall and my 4" angle grinder, I was in. Only took me about an hour..... ![]() Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics...and at night at that, but it is all I ever have with me! After the tail lights, and the next day, I moved on to plumbing my fuel system. I used the stainless fuel lines off the YJ donor, and a little bit of rubber fuel line to go from the mechanical fuel pump to the RETURN line of the YJ gas tank. I know that this limits me as to how much fuel I can get out of the tank, but I haven't researched enough yet to find out if I can use the fuel outlet side that is hooked up to the electric fuel pump without having the pump hooked up. Feel free to chime in if anyone knows that one! I would love to be able to actually use the gas in the bottom of the tank! While playing around with the gas tank, I opened up the access panel in the top, and found several items floating around in the bottom of the tank that I had never seen before. ![]() After pulling all the parts out: plastic tray, pump screen and a black plastic pickup tube, I was able to easily figure out how to put it all back together. The fun part was trying to keep it all from falling out of the sending unit assemply while trying to set it back in the tank as one piece. The items don't fit together very tightly ( I don't know if they ever did), and it took some creative maneuvering to make it happen, but it is in the tank as it should be. The rubber fuel hose is now coming up through a round access hole that was in the floor of the back of the tub (same hole in the CJ...don't know what it is there for though), and going to the poly tank that is sitting in the back of the Jeep until I can build or find a tank skid. Several more days of playing with the wiring, and fast forward a few days to starting with the brake system. I already know that the left front caliper is pretty well frozen up, but will still release enough to move the Jeep. It just hangs up a bit. ![]() ![]() ![]() I went ahead and used the YJ brake booster and master cylinder as it was already attached to the tub from when I swapped it. I had to run new lines, which was a bit interesting. 30" lines are just barely enough to make it from the master cylinder to the CJ proportioning valve on the frame, and take some creative stretching to make it happen, but it is doable. The next size up was 40", and I didn't want to have a whole bunch of extra line in the engine compartment. I have, however, decided that I am going to scrap the 30" lines and do the 40's so that I can run them back to the firewall and down to the frame vs. passing them right next to the fenderwell headers. There is barely any room between the brake line and header, and I am afraid of boiling the brake fluid. I also couldn't match up the proper size lines with the line fittings that I need, so the front brake line is significantly larger than stock. I haven't been able to use the brakes enough to know what kind of impact this has, and I hope that there isn't any, but time will tell. Once I installed the new lines, I began to bleed the brakes. Right rear first, then the left rear. On the LAST FREAKIN PUMP OF THE BRAKES that I was doing to bleed the rears, the metal line that goes from the proportioning valve to the rear brake hose burst at the fitting and sprayed fluid everywhere. I gave up for the night. I spent the entire next day looking for a rear brake hose, which nobody carries and can't get, as I was going to replace the rear metal line and hose to avoid any future issues. Well, since i couldn't find a hose, I was just going to replace the metal line for now until I could track down a hose. Well, the metal line was rusted into the hose fitting, and even with PB blaster, brake fluid, heat and a pair of vice grips, it wouldn't budge, so I pinched off the rear line at the prop valve (gotta replace the line anyways) and bled out the front brakes. I have since decided to replace the ENTIRE brake plumbing system and new front calipers. At $13 each, I figure it is worth it. After bleeding the brakes....I had to try them out!!! I went to start the Jeep and.....nothing. turn the key and not a thing in the world. No clicks, whines, buzzes, nothing. I immediately got out the ole hammer and gave the solenoid a few "gentle" taps, and the starter a few.....less than gentle taps, and still no juice. Out comes the old test light. Power to the battery side of the solenoid, no power to the starter side. Hmmmmm.... then, power to the first terminal....NO POWER to the second terminal with the blue wire! I went to go take the key out of the ignition....but it wouldn't come. For some reason, the lock cylinder wouldn't turn all the way back for me to get the key out, so I got my trusty old pliers and yanked the key out. Voila, keyless start! I figured that since every other CJ out there doesn't need a key to start, what makes me so special?! Anyways, I turned the key switch back to the on position, and got my new key (a length of red 8ga wire) and jumped from the battery to the second terminal of the solenoid and she started right up! I'll have to figure that one out later. Any how, I jumped in the Jeep, put the tranny in reverse and stepped on the gas pedal....and then realized that I had no accelerator cable. Soooo.....5 minutes and a piece of string later (yes, a piece of regular white kite string) and I was in business. We took our maiden voyage around the neighborhood. Made almost a full circle back to the house before it died out on me! I hopped out of the Jeep, grabbed my "key" opened the hood, started it right back up, and off it went. You will notice that I never mentioned putting the Jeep back in park or neutral, so as I said, off it went. The Jeep took off without me! Lesson 1: when jump starting your Jeep with a piece of wire under the hood, be sure to put the jeep in Park or Neutral so that you don't end up chasing it down a dirt road in hopes that id doesn't run off into a ditch. After an Oh Sh*t moment, I chased the Jeep down, hopped in, and slowly putted back to my buddy's house with the hood still open from jumping it off to find him laughing hystarically in his front yard. Any how, the Jeep died again as I got to his front yard. I believe that I am out of gas. We will see on Monday. I got it back up in the yard, and began stripping the front tube bumper of all of the rust scale and the rubberized coating that the PO had applied some 20 years ago that has now cracked into pieces. This was the first time that I had ever completely used a brand new wire wheel for a drill down to nothing. However, I got the whole bumper stripped before the wheel gave up the ghost. ![]() ![]() I decided to use the same Rustoleum hammered finish on the bumper that I used on the frame. I really love this stuff, and you can brush it on without leaving a single brush stroke or drip mark. As it sets up, it textures and hardens to cover up imperfections in metal, as well as any porous spots and pitting. As you can see, there is a nice dent in the front bumper that the PO had filled in with about 5 pounds of bondo. Removing that one was fun! Any how, here are the finished pictures of how it turned out.... ![]() ![]() After finishing that one, I also painted my new (to me) tranny tunnel cover and installed it. Thanks CJinPA! No more giant hole in the floor! That brings you all up to date! More work to be done Monday as I expect my new accelerator cable, e-brake equalizer cable and rear brake hose from 4WD to be in! I have that, a little more wiring to do, and need to build a roll cage and gas tank skid...paint, and done! All for well under $1000.
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#63 |
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Registered User
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Great work, I had a little chuckle when I read that you got it started in gear and were chasing it down the rd. Thanks for that. I can just picture it now. Keep the pictures and the updates commin, great thread so far.
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My Build Thread Extreme Makeover |
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#64 |
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Registered User
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im glad to see someone else has done that..theres a huge hole in my garage that has seen what a run-away jeep can do.."SORRY DEAR!"
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#65 |
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Registered User
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Little update for the few that are following along. I installed all new brake lines front to back, including my Goodridge 4" extended braided brake hoses (I am planning on a bigger lift after I finish the budget build). I replaced the rear wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware, new front calipers and pads, swapped in the YJ brake booster and mc....kept the stock proportioning valve, although I do have the YJ one if I need it. Also tore apart my old steering column, replaced the turn signal cam, new ignition lock cylinder, new (off my spare steering column) steering wheel and turn signal lever, got everything mounted up and all put back together. Now I can start the Jeep with the key!!!! Ooh, and it stops now too! Also installed my family style YJ roll bar. I know that it isn't in line with stock CJ looks, but it was only $60 and I would have paid more building or finding anything different. Things are coming together rather nicely now. I still need to finish my front tube fenders, fix my passenge seat riser (or find a new one), build a center console and replace some gauges. Aside from that and some paint, we are ready to roll!!!
Jeep on 33's this week: ![]() Jeep on 35's this week: ![]() Going to pick up some 38's tomorrow! Brake lines in: ![]() Gonna be some fun wheeling when the weather starts getting warmer!!! (No top)
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#66 | |
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Registered User
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UPDATE TO MY LIST
Quote:
Finish plumbing brake lines (had to redo some) Adjust (rebuild) carb Find a speedo cable that will mate from the T400 to my 91 YJ Speedo Find a pass. seat riser and slider Build a gas tank skid Mount the gas tank Install Mirrors Re-Herc the tub New Cowl Rubber Seal 89-91 YJ battery Tray (or just build my own) Maybe get an A/C compressor and put A/C in the Jeep (I already have everything else) Fresh Tune Up and Team Rush to the motor Change all fluids and inspect Q-trac Chain-replace if needed Build some tube fenders Paint the Jeep Add some rocker guards Install CJ tailgate to YJ tub Replace the remaining gauges with autometer gauges Seatbelts
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#67 |
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Registered User
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OK, more updates. So last week I went and picked up a set of 38x14.5x15 TSL SX's for $80. Got them home, set them on the back burner while I removed the fenders and reworked some of my underhood wiring. I took the starter solenoid and the Duraspark Module off the fenders and mounted them to the firewall as see here:
![]() ![]() The wiring still needs a good bit of custom reworking, some shortening, some to be completely deleted, etc. For some reason, I can't get my air horns to work from the steering wheel either. I checked the horns, they work. I replaced the turn signal cam and ingnition lock cylinder last week, and I am sure that all of the connections are good and that everything is there. For some reason though, I am not getting juice through the firewall. I'll track that one down later though. Today, I spent the better half of the morning getting my 33's removed from my centerline wheels and the 38's mounted to them. I actually felt pretty bad for the guy that was doing them, as it was obviously his first week at the tire shop, and the rest of the guys were standing around laughing at him. On his behalf though, they did have to use an aux air tank to give a blast to set the beads on the first tire. After that, he did ok, but weighing in at around 130, he had a little trouble handling the big tires and getting them on and off the machines. After about an hour, I was out the door for $30, and all mounted and balanced with balancing compound (they are a commercial truck tire center as well). Got home, pulled out the ole trusty floor jack, jacked up the rear end, only to find that the jack is plenty tall enough to take the 35's on and off, but just a hair too short for 38's. Out comes the high lift to inform me that my rear bumper isn't able to support any kind of weight, such as jacking the Jeep up, so I had to give a crash test on my welding of my body mounts. I jacked the Jeep up by the body tub just in front of the rear wheel well opening, and everything worked out great. Piece of cake! All 4 corners later and here we are: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After finishing up the wheels, I went under the hood to do my TeamRush upgrade. I stopped by Advance Auto this morning to pick up my cap adapter, rotor button, MSD cap and Accel wires. All came in around $60 by the time everything was said and done, so not too shabby. I got everything hooked up, only to find that the Jeep wouldn't start. This could have been due to several things, such as the battery being weak, the much needed rebuild on the carb, the fact that everything under the hood was wet, or I may have misrouted one of the plug wires. Either way, no biggie, as I will tackle that one tomorrow. I have a new seat frame coming in the mail this week (thanks CB!), and as soon as I get the old Carter AFB rebuilt, and get the brakes finished, we are good to go! Just in time for some good summer fun! And thankfully just before I start my new job in a different town!
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#68 |
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Registered User
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Dude this is an AWESOME build! You have definately given me some hope to moving forward. I know everyone needs to name their own jeep, but skeletor comes to mine after i have read your thread, LOL. Keep up the great work and let us know what you are going to do with the dash. I want to put AC in my CJ, but dont want it to look crappy. I like the CJ look.
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#69 |
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Registered User
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uuuhhhhh
I seem to recall reading "that rear bumper will be the first to go!" haha, just pulling your leg. Looks like a great thread so far! When you decide to sell it for less than you have got in it please let me know, i would really love to have an automatic CJ! Would be worth the trip to pick it up I dare say... ![]() By the way, how did you get them to mount those tires for you? that Pass front looks like it is completely bald. Anyhow, looks good. So are you going to keep that flat tow hitch on there, or keep it off? Personally I wish I had one for my cj, would be really nice at times... Keep the info coming! Last edited by Ford_Prefect; 02-25-2009 at 12:23 AM.. |
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#70 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Stretch Rear axle 2-6" Speedo Cable Mount Gas Tank Install Mirrors Re-Herc tub New Cowl Seal Change All Fluids and Inspect Q-trac chaing, replace if needed Build Tube Fenders Paint the Jeep Install CJ tailgate on YJ tub Replace remaining guages with autometer Purchase/Install Seatbelts
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#71 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Don't tell her I don't plan on selling it!) The tires.....well, that's the joy of living in an area that still has back woods tire shops. They couldn't have cared less what they looked like as long as they were getting the $$ for the mounting. I certainly did get my money's worth out of that kid though! He had a bit of a hard time getting the tires on the rims and getting them seated. As far as the towing "hitch", it is part of the rear bumper, and will be gone as soon as the bumper is. I am most likely just going to either build a bumper or purchase a BTF rear stretch bumper with the tow hitch and rear shackle mounts already included.Oh, and naming the Jeep is getting a little closer. I am either thinking "el diablo" being that I think my Jeep is posessed by the Devil himself and is purposefully fighting me on this build every step of the way; The Punisher, as it seems to enjoy punishing me, and I think a nice black paint job with the Punisher logo on the Hood would look killer; or I may now also go with Skeletor as earlier suggested. Thanks guys! Oh, and for those of you that aren't quite as visually impaired as me and are able to use your imaginations, I will be removing the rear diamond plate to expose the comp cut corners, and stretching the rear axle back either 2" with FSJ springs, or 6" with XJ springs. All depends on what I can find today, but I will probably go with the XJ springs as they are a little more readily available.
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#72 |
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Registered User
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No, I meant the hitch on the front for the flat towing. I would really like to get one of those for my jeep...sigh, but I can not afford even the fifty dollar one...sigh.
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#73 |
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Registered User
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Well, today the Jeep got a little bit of a face lift to the rear. Removed the rear bumper,
![]() ![]() ![]() Also got the CJ tailgate set in place, removed the bolt plates from the old body, stripped a few other needed parts from the old body, and cleaned the Jeep out. ![]() ![]() and removed the diamond plate corners to expose the comp cut that was already on the YJ tub: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Had to do a good bit of trimming to the rear fenders to clean up the hack job that was left behind by the previous tub's owner, but all in all, it came out ok. I would have definately liked for it to come out a little better, but unfortunately with metal, it isn't really easy to put big chunks of it back. It can be done....but not easily. Obviously, this gives an idea of what the stretch will eventually look like, as I am going to take a set of XJ Cherokee springs and move the rear axle back about 6". Of course this will result in having to extend the rear drive shaft and the E-brake cables, and having to change out the spring hangers and shackles, but all in all, I think it is my best option for my setup. Only problem right now is that I can't find a CHEAP set of XJ springs. The local junk yards want $100 a set for the rears if I pull them! I can't bring myself to do that being that I see these things for free often enough and I constantly see Cherokees on Craigslist for 300-400 dollars. I will happen upon some springs soon enough though. Aside from that, I think that a little sanding and some paint will make a HUGE difference on the Jeep. I have decided though that I am going to go ahead and do some front tube fenders. I was just going to run it without, but it actually kinda annoys me that the hood has nothing to latch down to, and I really don't want to drill holes in it to install speed pins.
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I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!! Build Thread: 1979 CJ7 Blue Jeep
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#74 |
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Registered User
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You know, I would have to take a closer look, but I bet you could take the stock latch system and just mount it to the front grill, one either edge, and hook it to the front of the hood easy enough...Not sure how it would look, but it would get the job done...
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#75 |
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Senior Member
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Go to Ebay locate a tub near you. You could get lucky. Por 15 the frame and everything else that is rusted. If you don't mind spending your entire summer working on it do it. Remember that famous saying: Cheap crap will end up costing you more in the long run. There are so many people out there hard up for money that you could literally find one in near mint condition for a whole lot less than what you are going to spend on that Jeep. I would put that to the side for parts.
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