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Bilstein Blowout Sale - 4 5100 Series Shocks $309.99 shippSALE PRICING, Specials, Huge Savings Alloy USA and Posi-LoPoison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955

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Unread 02-21-2010, 06:18 PM   #76
crazyeye
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I was goin to say. If your spending that kind of money why not buy aluminum tub?

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Unread 03-12-2010, 01:02 PM   #77
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I'm dying for an update!
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Unread 03-12-2010, 01:33 PM   #78
LT1CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1CJ7 View Post
You should have opted for a good YJ tub and saved yourself $3,000.
Or started your CJ purchase from the west coast and not have to deal with any rust issues at all.
Hummm,
Didn't I say this earlier.....................
Oh well.........................................
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Unread 03-12-2010, 03:56 PM   #79
TRex
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Work has been crazy lately (interviewing as well). I've been working on the CJ and have been getting a lot of the smaller stuff taken care of. I fell I should preface this post and apologize for the crappy photos. I'm using a small Nikon that I'm dedicating to the garage during this build and so far, I'm not impressed with the photo quality.

I did the tie rod flip. That was a far simpler process than I thought. I fellow JFer lent me the use of his reamer and a power drill made quick work of the job. I'll post pics of that in a bit.

The thing that's taken the longest is the tedious removal of the factory decals along the bottom of the entire tub. I'm using a hair dryer and a scrapper and the process is loooong and absolutely mind-numbing. It's literally a sliver of decal at a time. Both sides took a total of ~6 hours.

Decals... someone shoot me if I ever put a decal on a vehicle... ever.


Decal removed, sticky mess stayed. Wax and Grease remover helps but isn't perfect-- coarse-grit sanding ultimately worked the best. Goo Gone was too messy and I didn't want to introduce even more oil to the exterior prior to painting.


I took an evening and rebuilt my rusty parking brake pedal assembly. Looks good! The red bumper is an old cut-up polly leaf spring bushing.


Coated with POR-15 on both sides. I'll probably disassemble and dust it with chassis coat black prior to final installation.


Also got the tub cleaned, sanded, cleaned again and finally wax and grease removered (is that a word?). I brushed on a liberal coat of POR-15 as a base for the Herc. Looked good.




After letting the POR-15 tack-up, I rolled-on the Herculiner. It went on easily and seems durable. I was concerned that it would be too rubbery but it worked out well. **A note for those wondering; spraying the bedliner looks much more uniform than rolling or brushing it on. If I wasn't planning on carpet, I may have sprayed it.







I've since sanded the bottom of the tub and brushed on POR-15 as well. I ran out of time and will need to scuff the POR-15 in order to apply the Herc. that's just extra work which kinda sucks. Pics of that to come as well.
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Unread 03-15-2010, 10:17 AM   #80
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It was a really nice weekend and I was able to sneak away for an hour or so to play with the Jeep. 99% of the time, I'm working in a dark garage at night so getting the opportunity to roll the chassis out into the sunlight a snapping a few pics was a must.

Lower front end. I'm thinking now that I'll run the D30 for a little while. I picked-up the D44 and it's in a bazillion pieces so I'll build on that and roll it under the Jeep someday in the future.


Lower front quarter - Also notice the tie-rod flip (rod is hanging from a hanger so I could more easily steer).


Lower rear


Front. This shot makes me want to just throw a seat in and go!


I put my recently rebuilt, repainted heater box back together.




Spring break this week so I'll be taking some time off and away from the Jeep. I've begun designing the exhaust and practicing welding on exhaust tube and so far, it's much easier to work with than sheet metal. The exhaust is going to be simple but since there is no aftermarket for exhaust systems utilizing the stock exhaust manifolds for the 304, I'll be crafting my own. The plan is to go from the manifolds straight back to dual Dynomax 17748 mufflers and tips exiting in front of the rear wheels.
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Last edited by TRex; 03-24-2010 at 08:18 AM..
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Unread 03-24-2010, 08:31 AM   #81
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Clutch Issues

I removed the T150/Dana20 to get it cleaned up and put a new gasket set on it. It's leaking from everywhere. I also wanted to take a closer look at how I installed the clutch... it seems wrong but I can't figure out what I did.

Question...
Regarding the clutch fork lever position in the bellhousing; The fork lever seems to be sitting too far forward which isn't allowing the fork boot to seat properly. It doesn't seem correct to me. Can anyone comment on how this is supposed to be positioned?

Is this correct? The boot doesn't seem to seat properly.


View inside bellhousing to fork, throwout bearing, clutch plate


Getting the Transmission and Transfer case cleaned-up, painted and resealed this week... hopefully.
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Unread 04-02-2010, 05:01 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex View Post
Also dropped the tub off at the sandblaster. Should be done in a few days.

I'm not going to be able to paint the tub for a little while (still have some body work to do). Should I put some type of zinc primer on it so it doesn't rust too badly?

Tub on trailer
Your CJ is looking great

Where is your sandblaster located and what did it cost?
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Unread 04-09-2010, 09:32 AM   #83
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243,

I used a place in Spring called Mo' Musclecars. I can't say I would recommend them though. I had asked them to let me know how the body looked during soda blasting and prior to completing the entire job. They didn't call until the job was done and only then did they mention that there was a ton of bondo and rust. Wasn't cheap either- over $600 for just the outside of the tub and tailgate.
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Unread 04-09-2010, 09:56 AM   #84
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Seems like I've been busy doing a bunch of detail stuff that's been occupying a lot of time but showing very little progress.

The exhaust is 99% complete. I made it (gotta get a few pics) from scratch and is comprised of dual 2.5" stainless tubes from the manifolds to a couple of Cherry Bomb Turbo mufflers exiting in front of the rear wheels (no cats). I switched to the Cherry Bombs due to the small size. I ran into clearance issues with my previously planned routing and the size of the DynoMax mufflers.

Also got the YJ tub switched over from the Wrangler-style driver-side fuel filler to the CJ-style passenger-side fuel filler. That went really well and looks great. The Evercoat Rage filler is so easy to work with.

I filled the hole with the piece that was cut from the passenger side, welded in-place and then and a thin coat of Evercoat Rage filler was applied. This will be covered by some flavor of a corner guard/armor and I'll likely be the only one to ever see it but it's good practice.


New fuel filler location.


I finally go the body dropped back on the chassis to do a preliminary fitment and mockup. The YJ tub fits beautifully with only minor modifications to the rear body mounts. New body mount bolts were necessary since the YJ uses larger bolts. I went to Lowes (they have a better bolt selection the HD) and picked-up the appropriate Grade 8 bolts.









I'll be getting the paint next week and shooting next weekend if the weather is right. I still need to work on the doors and grill to get them ready for paint. The grill is bare metal right now and the doors are in great shape but still painted. The underside of the front fenders will be shot with POR-15 and Herc'd after paint.
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Unread 04-09-2010, 04:25 PM   #85
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Looking great!

I think you will be on the road long before me
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Unread 04-09-2010, 06:30 PM   #86
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Agreed. Coming along nicely.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 09:28 AM   #87
TRex
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I've been planning the dash layout. I started out with a minimalist approach and it quickly grew into a more complex ****pit (<-- Ha! I can't write c.o.c.k.). I'm hoping to send the CAD drawing to a local signage fabrication shop to have it fabricated next week. I'll have them cut everything but the holes for the smaller gauges as I'm still wavering on a 4 or 5 gauge layout. Not sure I want/need a VAC gauge.

Here's the initial design. Feel free to comment. (Click for a detailed view)


Here's a fully dimensioned detail. (Click for a detailed view)
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Unread 04-16-2010, 09:33 AM   #88
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that sir, will be a good looking dash.

will those extra gauges and switches clear the ductwork and pedal assembly?
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Unread 04-16-2010, 09:39 AM   #89
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Looking good.......
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Unread 04-16-2010, 09:43 AM   #90
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Thats a sweet looking dash but I agree about some of those gauges clearing the ductwork for the heater.... Otherwise that looks SWEET!
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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