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Poison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955OPTIC ARMOR WINDOWS all sale now !!!!!!!!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 02-17-2010, 11:59 AM   #46
JoonHoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex View Post
... Do you think a hacksaw, cut-off wheel or reciprocating saw would yield the best results?
any of the above- just be careful not to bugger any of the other threads when cutting

Hoss

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Unread 02-17-2010, 12:10 PM   #47
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Nice build TRex!

Watch out for Exposed...he has a major CJ disease and he will take you to the dark side. Especially if you take the time to check out the work on his CJ5!
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Unread 02-17-2010, 12:30 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1gbee View Post
dude bad A** jeep!! looking good love the motor color keep the build pics coming
Thanks, b1gbee!



Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
any of the above- just be careful not to bugger any of the other threads when cutting

Hoss
Duly noted. I'll post pics of the surgery. Thanks again, Hoss.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Nice build TRex!

Watch out for Exposed...he has a major CJ disease and he will take you to the dark side. Especially if you take the time to check out the work on his CJ5!
Ha! Exposed's build was one of the many awe-inspiring builds that continue to play a major role in answering questions, boosting confidence and motivating me to get off my arse and work on the CJ when the garage is cold and my back is pounding.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 12:35 PM   #49
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Trex is looking good... There is something about doing the chassis that seems to go by fast. You see alot of progress everytime you work on it.... I feel like I have been stuck about 4 months on mine. Between waiting on good weather to paint and doing miles of electrical wiring, Trex and 243 are running circles around me on progress..... I think when I went outside the box (Ford Jeepstang, fiberglass body, etc.), I got pushed over to the dark side.. ha ha Maybe me buying another un-modified Jeep, I can get back in the club..... ha ha....
Man, this Jeep stuff can get expensive!!!!!
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Unread 02-17-2010, 12:50 PM   #50
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Not sure if this is of any use to anyone other than myself but I've put together a somewhat loose project plan for this build. I know, I know... it's nerdy.

TRex 1979 CJ7 Project Plan [92 KB | PDF]

I plan to update it periodically. There are 3 tabs at the bottom:

TOTAL: Shows the total build cost to date
Ordered: Shows what I've ordered, when, from who, cost and if it's been received and/or installed.
Project Status: Is a running tally of what I've done, what I need to do and how long I estimate it will take. Also shows a completion and duration status.

DISCLAIMER:
Please keep in mind, this is all BS! It really just allows me to fixate on something other than not sleeping.
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Last edited by TRex; 02-17-2010 at 02:49 PM..
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Unread 02-17-2010, 10:23 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
yes, you can.

best best is to either A) install a second nut, then cut- using the second nut to clean the threads when removed, or B) do the same with a thread cutter.

either way, cutting them isn't a big deal, just leave yourself about 1/2" of thread or so



Hoss


Good suggestion, Hoss! The bolts tuned out perfectly using the cut-off wheel method.





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Unread 02-17-2010, 10:32 PM   #52
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I got a lot of practice cutting bolts short doing one particular job (non-automotive). I found the key wasn't using the nut to clean up the threads, but to make a clean initial cut, then any grinding/cleaning up of the threads is to be done so the tool is pulling away, basically toward the newly cut tip. You don't want to "jam" material toward your clean threads, you want to pull it away so to speak. Using this method I was able to thread nuts over the cut threads using nothing by my fingers.
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Unread 02-18-2010, 10:15 AM   #53
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Looking good, you've made alot of progress...fast! Now I gotta catch up!
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Unread 02-18-2010, 11:10 AM   #54
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Years ago, an old machinist buddy showed me how to cut off bolts. You don't need the nut installed prior... Cut to the desired length close to 90 degrees of the center line of the bolt. Then, on the bench grinder, grind the cut to square to the center line. Then turn the bolt into the wheel about 30 degrees. You want the wheel to grind from the threads to the new square end. As you grind a small chamfer, rotate the bolt at the same time. Once you have about an 1/8" across the chamfer and all away around, you are done. The grinding wheel will clean the face and then the starter thread (first thread) will be smooth. Then a nut will screw right on with no wrench needed. Works everytime for me and quick...
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Unread 02-18-2010, 11:16 AM   #55
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You have a good start and a good plan,
But why skimp and cheap out on certain things that will most likely come back to haunt you in the end.
Oil is the blood of the engine, No oil/blood = DEATH
JB weld an oil pan ? Come on ! For a trail fix - Not a problem.
But for a frame off referb, You should know better.
You even double asked your self about it holding.
And , It's a JEEP, a CJ or a CJ7, NOT A TRUCK !
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Unread 02-19-2010, 10:42 AM   #56
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As mentioned in my previous post, the tub came back from the blaster and was a little worse than I first thought (as always, right?).

Once I tore into it a little more last night, it needs some definite attention but I'm not completely panicked yet (just mostly). I've seen tubs here in far worse condition that looked great after a little metal work and paint.

This is my first foray into the wonderful world of sticking metal to metal. I also discovered that I'm a terrible welder. I'm now looking into finding a night class on welding 101.

After watching the video that came with the welder, this was my first try at spot welding. I put a tack every 2" or 3" and then filled in the holes. To me, it looks like the penetration is lacking but what do I know.

Lincoln 140 wire feed MIG welder.


First try - Spot welds


Cleaned up a little.


Here's a pic of the back of the butt weld.



Here are a few pics of the tub and what I'll be working with over the next couple weeks.

Driver side windshield cowl.


Passenger side windshield cowl


Driver side door sill


Driver side rear door sill


Passenger side door sill


Driver side rear quarter panel


Tailgate


Driver side rear



So, all in all, I guess it's not too terrible. There are spots of Bondo absolutely everywhere and the soda blaster didn't budge them. Thankfully they're easy enough to remove or level with a scraper and rubber mallet. Next steps once the bondo is removed will be to sand the tub with 320 and start cutting welding patch panels for the holes. I'm thinking I'll probably need to buy a replacement windshield cowl as well... possibly some other panels too.

How much is a new tub, again?
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Unread 02-19-2010, 11:29 AM   #57
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Anyone care to weigh-in on the best method to cut-out rust holes on the body as well as to cut patch panels to weld in?

I'm looking at the items below but would appreciate someone with practical experience to comment. Thanks!

Air Shears


3" High Speed Air Cutter


High Speed Metal Saw
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Unread 02-19-2010, 11:34 AM   #58
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Anyone care to weigh-in on the best method to cut-out rust holes on the body as well as to cut patch panels to weld in?
I'd be looking at a new tub option !
Unless you don't mind wasting your time, spending the same amount of money what a YJ tub cost.
Unless you just plan to slap it together without any care.
I'll bet you will see rust issues a year down the road after all that work.
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Unread 02-19-2010, 11:42 AM   #59
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Are you setup with C25 and solid wire or flux core?

Check the polarity on the machine and verify that you have it set correct for the C25/solid or flux core because the welds have a lot of porosity. No class is needed for MIG and bodywork, just get after it and practice.

I prefer cut-off wheels on a die grinder and an angle grinder.
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Unread 02-19-2010, 12:01 PM   #60
TRex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Are you setup with C25 and solid wire or flux core?

Check the polarity on the machine and verify that you have it set correct for the C25/solid or flux core because the welds have a lot of porosity. No class is needed for MIG and bodywork, just get after it and practice.

I prefer cut-off wheels on a die grinder and an angle grinder.
Thanks, 243
I'm using .023 L-56 flux core. I'll check the polarity this evening-- good idea. I thought it was setup correctly but that makes sense. I'll let you know how it comes out.
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Last edited by TRex; 02-19-2010 at 12:17 PM..
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