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Unread 01-06-2010, 07:31 AM   #31
Exposed
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There are alot of us who can agree with Certifiablejeep's comments:
Here is some simple math for you.

It will take 2X as long as you think, cost 3X as much and take up 4X as much space.... you don't even want to know what the 5X and 6X are... but it relates to money either way

cb

When starting a restoration, it seems to be an easy challenge. Take it all apart, replace what is bad, then clean and paint, then back together.. Such a simple thought that we can plan out how it is going to go.. Figure what it is going to cost and then jump in... I think the first hint of not realizing the extent of what you are doing, where to store all the stuff that you take off!!! Then you have the new stuff coming in boxes everywhere... Then you need a nice work area to actually assemble and put things back together. Then you need an area to do the cleaning, grinding, fabricating, and painting.. Wow, then it sets in.. Man what did I get myself into???? Us older guys that have been down this road before are usually much wiser. Guess they call that experience.. ha ha.. Then comes the dollars we spend... I want to do that and want to do this, first thing you see is your budget has gone out the window... All kidding aside, restoring old vehicles is a great hobby. I love working on these old vehicles because life was simplier then... The new vehicles are really much more reliable and comfortable but being able to work on something like a Jeep is much more fun... Here I am about 80% done on my CJ5... Figured about $10k for the restoration and now will be closer to $20k... My point is, life is short, do what you enjoy and live every day like it will be your last..... When it is back together and you fire the engine for the first time, there is a great feeling of accomplishment....

Good luck on all of you guys jumping in there to do a restoration.... That is one thing great about this site, lots of guys to help the guys that don't have the experience... We all learn from each other..... There is no substution for experience......

Calvin

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Unread 01-15-2010, 09:37 AM   #32
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Although I've been working on the truck for a few hours every evening, I feel like I've not made a significant amount of progress. I've been bumbling my way through putting the engine back together (slooooowly). I'm trying to take my time and not screw too much up. The first thing I did while putting the engine together was replace the dipstick tube which went poorly. I ended up breaking the new tube (I could probably have returned it if I hadn't gone ape sh*t on it in a fit of rage). After a few searches, I found that Bulltear sells a "guaranteed to fit" dipstick tube set ($37! ouch!) and also explained that most aftermarket AMC dipstick tubes are the wrong diameter. Oh well-- I'm hoping the rest of the build doesn't follow suit.

After losing what little momentum I had from working on the engine, I decided to pull the tub. I rigged a couple heavy duty eye hooks and pulleys from the ceiling joists in the garage to hoist the tub. This process proved one of the easiest tasks in the project so far. Raise tub, roll chassis out of garage, roll trailer into garage, lower tub, roll trailer w/ tub out of garage and finally roll chassis back into garage. The whole process took about an hour. Not bad. I'm finding this project is like playing Tetris with heavy objects.

Unhooked all the fuel lines, body bolts and wiring from the body and simply pulled the tub off the chassis.


The chassis is in surprisingly good condition.


Started taking the chassis down to metal.


I'm planning to inspect, reinforce and cleanup the welds wherever necessary. I'll clean the chassis with Marine Clean then Metal Ready then shoot a couple coats of POR-15 and finally a couple coats of POR-15 Chassis Coat Black.

I'll likely take the tub somewhere this weekend or next to get blasted.
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Unread 01-15-2010, 08:42 PM   #33
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Im no expert but are there chips of metal missing from that piston?
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Unread 01-15-2010, 09:41 PM   #34
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WOW!! I didnt notice that at first but i would say that thats what it is. Ive never seen that before. What does the cylinder look like?
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Unread 01-15-2010, 11:41 PM   #35
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I think that these indentations, channels, grooves or whatever they may be technically termed, are normal for these pistons. I thought the same thing upon initial inspection but every piston is identical and all the cylinders are all spotless.

I'll defer to those more knowledgable than myself though. Thanks for the keen eye.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 06:07 PM   #36
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piston

looks like 030 stamped on the piston which indicates on the last rebuild it was bored out .030? which means now you have a 309 cubic inch motor. my machine shop guy always tells me bigger is better and size does matter! in engines of course.lol
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Unread 01-22-2010, 09:08 AM   #37
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Made some progress over the last few days. Getting the frame wire wheeled and free of old paint, rust, grease and dirt was a big undertaking. It took close to 10 hours to get the frame clean to where I could apply the POR-15. Lots of Marine Clean and Scotch Brite pads. After the frame was spotless, I coated it with Metal Ready, let it sit for 30 minutes, rinsed with water, towel dried and let it dry completely over night. A nice chalky zinc buildup had formed which needed to be removed with a couple passes of a damp cloth and then the first coat of POR-15 went on. Due to the limited space (and my apprehension to spray POR-15), I chose to brush it on. It took ~2 hours to apply the first coat to the bottom and sides. I'll apply the second coat this evening and then flip the frame over and do the top.

The camera flash makes the finish look "milky". It's actually a pretty deep/dark black.

Top (inside) of transmission skid. Too bad nobody will *ever* see this. It looks great.


Brackets, mounts, etc.






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Unread 01-22-2010, 09:18 AM   #38
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Also dropped the tub off at the sandblaster. Should be done in a few days.

I'm not going to be able to paint the tub for a little while (still have some body work to do). Should I put some type of zinc primer on it so it doesn't rust too badly?

Tub on trailer
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Unread 01-22-2010, 09:24 AM   #39
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Question:
Anybody see a problem with storing a D44 axle on end like this?

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Unread 01-22-2010, 09:31 AM   #40
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As far as your wiring goes, I used a complete kit from Centech Jeeps: Wiring Harnesses and Kits It is a great harness and it is cheaper than a Painless. The wire is labeled ever couple inches, 99% of the terminals are already attached. I'll go back with a Centech harness when I build my next CJ.
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Unread 01-22-2010, 09:45 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex View Post
Question:
Anybody see a problem with storing a D44 axle on end like this?

This is what happened to my AMC 20 when I did it... very messy unless you drained the diff...

http://www.certifiablejeep.com/image...t/P1010007.jpg
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Unread 02-17-2010, 10:50 AM   #42
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Well it's been a little while since I last posted a progress. I'm now officially in month 2 of my build. Overall, I feel like I've accomplished quite a bit although through mostly short increments. I’m taking into considerations two facts:
1. I’ve never done anything remotely this in-depth.
2. I’m only working in the evenings from 8 to midnight.

Here are a few pics of the progress. As always, if you see something strange, feel free to comment. I don't care who's reading this-- you've got to know more than I do!

I got the Classic Tube pre-bent, stainless brake lines run with the Crown extended brake lines going to the front discs and rear drums.

I wanted to run the brake and fuel lines through the eBrake bracket with a rubber grommet like motiv8ya did on his Ghetto Fabulous 79 CJ7 build but that didn't quite work out for me. The lines were just too stiff and bulky.


Misc. Brake and Fuel Line frame mounts.


I installed the brake proportion valve without a hitch and then noticed that the large rear connector is either the wrong size or needs an adaptor to fit the brake line. Anyone have any thoughts on this?


Crown Extended Brake Lines-- Good quality stuff!


Brake lines - Hard line through frame to extended, braided stainless lines.


Rear brake line and mount.



I finally got the axles put back in place. I’ve got the old Dana 30 axle mocked-up in front for the time being. I've got a Dana 44 from an FSJ but I need to pick it up from a friend who's been kind enough to loan me some garage space. I'm not sure what'll be involved in getting the D44 front to fit, so the D30 will suffice for mock-up.

The rear D44 looks good. It's mocked-up and in-place for now. I'll need to remove it and clean/paint it and then reinstall it. I also got the leafs, shackles, bushings and shocks all replaced and/or painted and mostly assembled. The only issue I ran into was a problem with the square u-bolts on the D44 rear spring mount. I had to order replacements due to the existing being badly stripped. I couldn’t, for the life of me, find an exact replacement. The only square u-bolts I could find were 3” too long (10" overall). They’ll have to do. Can I trim these bolts without ruining them?



I got the fuel tank and skid prepped and coated with POR-15. New sending unit, o-ring, gaskets and hardware too. Found 2 old sending units in the bottom of the tank! Spares, I guess. ;-)




Got the motor further buttoned-up but after reading JeepHammer’s insights on Head Bolt Stretch, I’ve purchased a new ARP head bolts and will be receiving and installing those later this week. Thanks again, JeepHammer!









Finally installed the motor between the frame rails. The motor mounts are all firmly in-place but look like their being squished non-uniformly. Does this look correct?

Driver Side Motor Mount


Passenger side motor mount



Put a new Carolina Clutch in. It would be fairly quick and straight forward if I only had to do this once—but being inexperienced and apparently having an off day, I did it 3 times. 3rd time’s the charm, right?

After the clutch ordeal I put the transmission and transfer case in place and forced the transmission skid in place. It seems that when the skids and fuel tank were removed they miraculously re-shaped themselves resulting in reassembly struggles. The Jeep laughs at me quietly as I struggle and strain.





The sandblaster (soda-blaster) just called yesterday letting me know the tub is ready. I asked how it looked and he laughed, stating, “lots of bondo and rust! You’ve got your work cut out for ya!”. Crap. That’s not what I wanted to hear.

Anyone want to come by my place and teach me to weld? I’ll pay for materials, labor, fuel, pizza, beer, etc.
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Unread 02-17-2010, 11:14 AM   #43
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Can I trim these bolts without ruining them?
yes, you can.

best best is to either A) install a second nut, then cut- using the second nut to clean the threads when removed, or B) do the same with a thread cutter.

either way, cutting them isn't a big deal, just leave yourself about 1/2" of thread or so



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Unread 02-17-2010, 11:35 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
yes, you can.

best best is to either A) install a second nut, then cut- using the second nut to clean the threads when removed, or B) do the same with a thread cutter.

either way, cutting them isn't a big deal, just leave yourself about 1/2" of thread or so



Hoss
Thanks, Hoss! I think I'll try cutting them myself. Do you think a hacksaw, cut-off wheel or reciprocating saw would yield the best results?
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Unread 02-17-2010, 11:38 AM   #45
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dude bad A** jeep!! looking good love the motor color keep the build pics coming
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