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Unread 12-31-2009, 07:47 AM   #16
TRex
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Finally got the motor pulled. That was a bit more time-consuming than I had expected.

I started by disconnecting the drive shafts and unbolting the headers. These headers are stubborn as hell and I didn't have anything to cut them with so they remained as a single unit: header, muffler, pipe. I then tried to raise the engine and move the headers out of the way but the block kept catching on something or another making it impossible to lift. Finally had to lower the engine onto a couple 2x4s spanning the width of the frame and completely remove the motor mounts/perches from the chassis. Then I was able to successfully lift the motor. 5 or 6 hours later, the motor, transmission and transfer case were free and dangling from a chain.






From there, I started disconnecting the transfer case from the transmission, the transmission from the clutch and the clutch from the motor. At this point I realized that the hydraulic ram on my $50 used engine hoist leaks slowly so the whole works kept inching down slowly. That was a drag.

I also learned that the transmission and transfer case, as a unit, weigh quite a bit more than they appear. I darn near pooped myself lifting it off the motor.



I got the motor degreased, power washed and blown dry. It looks 100% better but still needs *a lot* of clean-up. UPS should be here this week with all the POR-15 goodies including POR-15, Marine Clean, Metal Ready, Engine Enamel (red and silver) and some Chassis Black.

I did find a bit of good news hidden under all the grease and grim caked on the engine... it's got an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and only needs a thourough cleaning and degreasing. Check that off the list and now I have $400 to spend elsewhere. Whooohoo!









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Unread 12-31-2009, 08:27 AM   #17
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I had a little time yesterday so I began disassembling the motor. I pulled all the pulleys and all that stuff from the front of the motor, then the intake manifold and the valve covers. Does this motor looks burnt or is this what a motor is supposed to look like?











As mentioned earlier, the Edelbrock Performer intake manifold was in pretty good condition but needed cleaning badly. I first cleaned it with carb cleaner and it looked okay. Took some Marine Kleen to it and it began to look better but still had stubborn stains that just wouldn't come off.

I finally just decided to paint the intake manifold with some cast aluminum color engine enamel. I masked it with blue painters tape by just laying strips of tape in the areas to be masked and then trimming the contours with a X-Acto knife. I primed it with 2 light coats of Rustoleum Engine Primer (good to 500* F) and then 3 moderate coats of Rustoleum Engine Enamel (also good to 500* F). It came out better than expected. I'm stoked!

Intake masked and primed...







And painted...








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Unread 12-31-2009, 08:49 AM   #18
ag4ever
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Looks like you are going strong.

The motor looks normal for a well seasoned engine. Are you planning on rebuilding or just freshing the engine. If you are planning on a complete rebuild I used a shop in Spring Branch to build an '01 Ford Cobra short block, and they did a great job. The shop specializes in high performance engines.

My inlaws live in Quail Valley, if you need an extra hand for anything let me know.

I have an '82 Scrambler that I am about to start restoring/modifying. I just need to finish a boat building project that is taking up half the garage first. In the mean time I have started collecting parts.
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Unread 12-31-2009, 10:02 AM   #19
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If you have headers and they are in good shape, keep them IMO. I have a pair and they are a pain to try and keep sealed but that's just a set of gaskets to fix.
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Unread 01-01-2010, 06:54 AM   #20
TRex
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The truck came with headers but their in pretty rough condition. They'll need to be replaced with something. I like the look of headers bbut I've read they can be a real pain to install and clear everything.

I think I'm still leaning towards headers but may go with shorties. Hopefully, they won't cause too much heat underhood. I've used the header wrap on motorcycles and it was really tough to clean and keep clean.

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Originally Posted by JeepnBlake View Post
If you have headers and they are in good shape, keep them IMO. I have a pair and they are a pain to try and keep sealed but that's just a set of gaskets to fix.
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Unread 01-01-2010, 07:12 AM   #21
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Nice! Your in-laws are only a few miles away. As for the motor-- I was just planning on doing a refreshening; new gaskets, seals, etc. The motor was rebuilt ~25k miles ago and seems to be running smoothly dispite leaking grotesquly.

I may actuay take you up on your offer to help. Once I begin putting the motor back together, I may need some guidance. ;-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by ag4ever View Post
Looks like you are going strong.

The motor looks normal for a well seasoned engine. Are you planning on rebuilding or just freshing the engine. If you are planning on a complete rebuild I used a shop in Spring Branch to build an '01 Ford Cobra short block, and they did a great job. The shop specializes in high performance engines.

My inlaws live in Quail Valley, if you need an extra hand for anything let me know.

I have an '82 Scrambler that I am about to start restoring/modifying. I just need to finish a boat building project that is taking up half the garage first. In the mean time I have started collecting parts.
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Unread 01-05-2010, 10:23 AM   #22
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FAIL!



Whoops! Guess I should have taken the heads off prior to rotating the block in the stand... and made sure the bolts were threaded all the way into the block! It looks like the force of the block swinging was a bit too much for the grade 8 bolts I had holding the block to the stand. The bottom two bolts sheared off completely and the top two bolts slowly bent and just barely held. It was a slow-motion failure luckily. I grabbed a length of chain, secured it to the block and picked it up with the hoist. Put the stand mount back on with better (and longer) bolts and tried again. So far, so good! Lesson learned. I assume these are the type of mistakes that are made when someone with experience is nowhere to be found. :-)

After the excitement of dropping the motor, I got back to it and removed the heads, oil pan, water pump and oil pump. I needed to make a run by Auto Zone to grab a vibration dampener puller after banging away at it with a rubber mallet for a few minutes. The correct tool always makes a job easier. The dampener eased off within seconds and without issue using the $16 (OEM brand) puller. Luckily there was no damage from my banging on it earlier.


So I've now got the motor torn apart... about as much as I plan on tearing it apart, that is. I didn't touch the crank, cam, cylinders, valves, springs, etc. They look to be in good condition and the thought of taking it all apart and not being able to correctly put it back together scares the hell out of me. Or worse, put it all back together and it grenades.

I removed all the old gaskets from the block, heads and oil pan using a 1.25" stiff paint scrapper/putty knife (and a rubber mallet).

Removing old head gaskets is slow, tedious work. I find that beer and music helps.



I found a small crescent-shaped hole around one of the mounting bolt on the front of the oil pan. A previous attempt was made to repair it using silicone. I thought perhaps the pan was salvageable and removed the silicone and the repaired the hole using JB Weld. Will it hold? The hole is less than 1/32" wide by possibly 1/4" long in a small, c-shape. I'm thinking the JB Weld will be okay but I'm not averse to purchasing a new pan. It's easy enough to replace the pan later should it be required.








Also, when I emptied the pan, I found a broken piece of thin, metal tubing but I can't figure out where it came from. Any ideas? After cleaning, stripped and sanded the pan and shot it with a couple coats of engine primer and then a couple coats of silver engine enamel. It looks much better but I'm still concerned about that small hole.

Anyone know what this is and where it belongs?


I also got the block cleaned, prepped, primed and the first (of 2 or 3) coat of POR-15's Engine Enamel applied (Yes, it's red! I know, I know... red Chevy, teal AMC-- I don't care. I like red.)

The first coat looks a little too pink. I'm hoping subsequent applications will result in a more "manly" red.





Next on the list is to clean, strip, prime and paint the bell housing, transmission and transfer case.

I've got a huge list of engine-related items coming from Morris 4x4 this week. Should keep me out of trouble for a little while.
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Unread 01-05-2010, 11:06 AM   #23
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Was the metal thing the end of hte dipstick tube? I can't remember what the inside part looked like, but that is at least a start in trying to figure it out.

cb
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Unread 01-05-2010, 11:11 AM   #24
TRex
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It was laying on the bottom of the pan. It looks like it could have come from the dipstick tube but the tube is intact. Maybe it's a replacement though.

Thanks, cb.

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Originally Posted by certifiablejeep View Post
Was the metal thing the end of hte dipstick tube? I can't remember what the inside part looked like, but that is at least a start in trying to figure it out.

cb
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Unread 01-05-2010, 11:16 AM   #25
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I think it is... Here is the picture I was looking for of my 304 during an RMS replacement...

Orange thing in the picture.
http://www.certifiablejeep.com/image...l/112_1243.jpg

cb
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Unread 01-05-2010, 11:26 AM   #26
TRex
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That must be it. My dipstick is not that long.

Thanks again, CB. You're a fount of knowledge!

Quote:
Originally Posted by certifiablejeep View Post
I think it is... Here is the picture I was looking for of my 304 during an RMS replacement...

Orange thing in the picture.
http://www.certifiablejeep.com/image...l/112_1243.jpg

cb
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Unread 01-05-2010, 11:30 AM   #27
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Trex, I live in Katy and about 80% complete with my CJ-5 restore.. If you need any help or information, shoot me a line.... Here is a link to my restore..
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...ow-bee-715903/

thanks
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Unread 01-05-2010, 12:49 PM   #28
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Thanks, Exposed. I may take you up on the offer! Your "Yellow Bee" build is looking great! Lots and lots of hours in that project. Very impressive. If you need any help (all I can offer is muscle at this point), please feel free to PM me.

I'm so deep in my build now and I have so little knowledge of what I'm doing, it's not even funny anymore! I look at the older pics of the Jeep when it was reasonably intact and I have a minor panic attack thinking of all the work it needs and all the knowledge I need to acquire.

In the end, I know I'll be damn proud of what I've accomplished despite the anxiety. It’s great to know that such knowledgeable resources are so easily accessible—This build wouldn’t have begun without the collective knowledge of JeepForum. Guaranteed.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Exposed View Post
Trex, I live in Katy and about 80% complete with my CJ-5 restore.. If you need any help or information, shoot me a line.... Here is a link to my restore..
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/re...ow-bee-715903/

thanks
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Unread 01-06-2010, 03:46 AM   #29
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My daughter and son-in-law live pretty close to your TRex. They are on Highland Lakes Dr. right off Glenn Lakes at 6.... Sounds like you are in their neighborhood..... We visit quite often...
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Unread 01-06-2010, 06:56 AM   #30
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trex, i'm there with you brother. I've got my tub off my '84 and getting ready to dive in to the rebuild. Sounds like i have about as much knowledge as you do. After the tub came off last week, i looked at what i had and shuddered and second-guessed. But, i just keep telling myself i'm in no rush, get it done right. My shop is about a half hour away from my home, and as of right know, is too damn cold to work in. My plan is, as i have stuff of to rebuild, clean up, etc, to bring that stuff home to my one car garage, which was just too small for the full frame-off job.



-Mike
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