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1979 CJ7 Build - "Project TRex"

125K views 196 replies 48 participants last post by  TRex 
#1 ·
I've always wanted a CJ. The opportunity came up recently to get a CJ from a friend that was in fairly decent condition. This is my first restoration/rebuild of anything. I've never pulled an engine or really done anything other than simple routine maintenance. I've never worked on a transmission, transfer case or any other driveline component. What I can do is read and follow directions… this should be interesting. I intend to update this thread with pics and updates as often as possible.

I'll be teaching myself (along with the wealth of knowledge contained within JeepForum, of course) everything that it takes to do a complete, frame-off, restoration of a Jeep CJ including: tear-down, inspection, welding, body work, painting, rebuilding, what to purchase and where, troubleshooting, etc…

All of the work will be done in a small 3-car garage which currently has 2 bays in use (wife's car on the left and storage, tools and motorcycles on the right).



The Project Truck…
The truck, as mentioned earlier, is fairly solid 1979 Jeep CJ-7, 304.

Engine: It has a rebuilt 304 with ~30k miles on the rebuild. It's leaking every imaginable fluid from every imaginable orifice known (and unknown). Exhaust is currently rusted-out, long-tube headers to dual Flowmasters dumped in front of the rear wheels.

Chassis: The chassis is straight, rust-free and in good condition.

Body: The body is in fairly good condition, with several, quarter-sized, patches of rust and a larger rust hole behind the driver-side windshield mount. It looks to have been repainted at least once. And has some flavor of bed-liner throughout the interior.

Suspension: The suspension is in fair condition and looks to have been replaced at some point. It's currently running 35" BFG ATs with the help of a 2" body lift and possibly longer shackles, Rancho shocks and a Rancho steering stabilizer.

Driveline: The clutch is completely shot but the 3-speed manual transmission is in excellent condition. The transfer case is unknown at this point and in unknown condition. It has a Dana 44, wide-track in back and the original up front but came with another Dana 44, wide-track for the front. The brakes are discs up front and drums in back-both are completely shot and barely functional.

The To-Do List…
• Pull motor, clean, strip, paint, replace seals/gaskets and other necessary items, dress-it up a little.
• Pull body, strip, fix rust, POR-15, prime, paint
• Strip chassis, POR-15, prime, paint paint
• Strip driveline, paint, replace seals/gaskets
• Strip suspension, inspect (replace if necessary), prime, paint
• Re-wiring, re-plumb all electrical and plumbing
• Replace brakes or brake components
• Get a night job to pay for all of this

The Timeline…
I have no idea what the time-line will be on this project. Since this is my first endeavor of this nature, I'm having a difficult time even planning it! This thread is forcing me to at very least write-down a punch list! I'm sure you all will have ideas and suggestions… and while I'm on the topic of suggestions, let me stress this point: Guidance and suggestions are not only welcome but encouraged!
 
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#2 ·
Well, I got motivated and started ripping into the Jeep. I think I underestimated the amount of space this project will consume. I've already begun collecting greasy Jeep detritus just about everywhere possible. :)

Pulled the windshield, roll cage, seats, consoles.


Started pulling the dash panel off.


Got the front fenders off.




I started tackling the rat's nest of wiring. I was going to save the wiring and even began labeling everything and then realized how big a mess it was. 30 years of splicing, hacking and Southern engineering was enough to change my mind. I figured instead of putting brittle wiring back into a nice Jeep, I'd spend the few hundred necessary for a new wiring harness.

I was looking at the Painless harness but it's twice the cost of some competitors. Anyone care to weigh-in on the subject?


So I took the tree branch trimmers to the wiring and got the job done quick!


 
#10 ·
I think I underestimated the amount of space this project will consume.
Here is some simple math for you.

It will take 2X as long as you think, cost 3X as much and take up 4X as much space.... you don't even want to know what the 5X and 6X are... but it relates to money either way ;)

cb
 
#3 ·
Long road ahead of you but stick with it! My rebuild was 2-1/2 years.

Painless Wiring is any oxymoron, but if you are not good with electric wiring I recommend them because they have a labeled kit for a bit more money. At least when you are frustrated and annoyed you can read the label and tell what wire you are working with. SAVE ALL OF THE OLD WIRING AND DASH BOARD!!!! DO NOT THROW IT OUT UNTIL THE JEEP RUNS 100%. Trust me on this! Do not reuse old brittle wiring, you will just have shorts and problems.

Check out my flickr site for pics and my youtube page also as you need to to.

Chris
cad1976@yahoo.com
 
#4 ·
TRex where in Houston are you? I'm up in the NW area near I-10 and Highway 6. If you are anywhere on the west side of town I might be able to lend you a hand from time to time if you needed.

Good luck on the build and Subscribed!:cheers2:
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the offer, kickingprop!

I'm actually in Missouri City which is, to say the least, a haul for you. BUT, you're more than welcome to come by anytime. I've got cold beer and pizza with your name on it!

TRex where in Houston are you? I'm up in the NW area near I-10 and Highway 6. If you are anywhere on the west side of town I might be able to lend you a hand from time to time if you needed.

Good luck on the build and Subscribed!:cheers2:
 
#5 ·
Chris, That is an exhaustive chronicle of your build! Good stuff. I've been cruising through build threads like there's no tomorrow so I really appreciate your detailed photo walk-through. Did you just wear a camera around your neck at all times during the build? I start rolling on something and forget to take pics. I need to pickup a cheapo camera to keep in my garage so I don't have to drag my Nikon out there and risk breaking it or getting it too greasy.

Thanks for the advise on the wiring.
 
#7 ·
Thats not too bad....at least you arent over in Pasadena or something. I actually play rugby and have regular practices over at Fondren and Belfort so I drive to that area regularly.

Let me know sometime if you need an extra set of hands.
 
#11 ·
I need some opinions here...

I'm thinking of putting the cast exhaust manifolds back on to simplify things under the hood and to keep some of the noise of that 304 down.

Pros of Headers
  • Increased performance
  • Look great
  • Sounds great if muffled properly
  • Excellent Durability

Cons of Headers
  • Loud
  • Difficult to install
  • Difficult to clear other components
  • Expensive
  • Less durable
 
#14 ·
We have 2 of them and never had any issue... then moved to a T-18 in the 3rd Jeep and love that even more... basically a T-150 with a granny gear... very nice as well.

cb
 
#15 ·
Headers near the driver and passenger door are very very loud.

I took a ton of pics from all angles. Sometimes not enough. I figured out the video tape thing a few months back.

I used my camera and my laptop to work in the shop I was renting for 8 months to keep me on track.

The pattern is for a T-150 3 speed. Very good tranny. I have one. Works great with a I6 engine, not sure how it does with a V-8.

Tip: Keep focused on the basics. Engine, tranny, body, frame, wiring, standard exhaust, etc. Look at add ons later. You will be amazed at how fast a 4 hour job turns into a 20 hour job...

Also, don't buy any fiberglass body parts EVER!
 
#16 ·
Finally got the motor pulled. That was a bit more time-consuming than I had expected.

I started by disconnecting the drive shafts and unbolting the headers. These headers are stubborn as hell and I didn't have anything to cut them with so they remained as a single unit: header, muffler, pipe. I then tried to raise the engine and move the headers out of the way but the block kept catching on something or another making it impossible to lift. Finally had to lower the engine onto a couple 2x4s spanning the width of the frame and completely remove the motor mounts/perches from the chassis. Then I was able to successfully lift the motor. 5 or 6 hours later, the motor, transmission and transfer case were free and dangling from a chain. :cheers2:





From there, I started disconnecting the transfer case from the transmission, the transmission from the clutch and the clutch from the motor. At this point I realized that the hydraulic ram on my $50 used engine hoist leaks slowly so the whole works kept inching down slowly. That was a drag.

I also learned that the transmission and transfer case, as a unit, weigh quite a bit more than they appear. I darn near pooped myself lifting it off the motor. :eek:



I got the motor degreased, power washed and blown dry. It looks 100% better but still needs *a lot* of clean-up. UPS should be here this week with all the POR-15 goodies including POR-15, Marine Clean, Metal Ready, Engine Enamel (red and silver) and some Chassis Black.

I did find a bit of good news hidden under all the grease and grim caked on the engine... it's got an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and only needs a thourough cleaning and degreasing. Check that off the list and now I have $400 to spend elsewhere. Whooohoo!







 
#17 ·
I had a little time yesterday so I began disassembling the motor. I pulled all the pulleys and all that stuff from the front of the motor, then the intake manifold and the valve covers. Does this motor looks burnt or is this what a motor is supposed to look like?










As mentioned earlier, the Edelbrock Performer intake manifold was in pretty good condition but needed cleaning badly. I first cleaned it with carb cleaner and it looked okay. Took some Marine Kleen to it and it began to look better but still had stubborn stains that just wouldn't come off.

I finally just decided to paint the intake manifold with some cast aluminum color engine enamel. I masked it with blue painters tape by just laying strips of tape in the areas to be masked and then trimming the contours with a X-Acto knife. I primed it with 2 light coats of Rustoleum Engine Primer (good to 500* F) and then 3 moderate coats of Rustoleum Engine Enamel (also good to 500* F). It came out better than expected. I'm stoked!

Intake masked and primed...






And painted...








 
#18 ·
Looks like you are going strong.

The motor looks normal for a well seasoned engine. Are you planning on rebuilding or just freshing the engine. If you are planning on a complete rebuild I used a shop in Spring Branch to build an '01 Ford Cobra short block, and they did a great job. The shop specializes in high performance engines.

My inlaws live in Quail Valley, if you need an extra hand for anything let me know.

I have an '82 Scrambler that I am about to start restoring/modifying. I just need to finish a boat building project that is taking up half the garage first. In the mean time I have started collecting parts.
 
#21 ·
Nice! Your in-laws are only a few miles away. As for the motor-- I was just planning on doing a refreshening; new gaskets, seals, etc. The motor was rebuilt ~25k miles ago and seems to be running smoothly dispite leaking grotesquly.

I may actuay take you up on your offer to help. Once I begin putting the motor back together, I may need some guidance. ;-)

Looks like you are going strong.

The motor looks normal for a well seasoned engine. Are you planning on rebuilding or just freshing the engine. If you are planning on a complete rebuild I used a shop in Spring Branch to build an '01 Ford Cobra short block, and they did a great job. The shop specializes in high performance engines.

My inlaws live in Quail Valley, if you need an extra hand for anything let me know.

I have an '82 Scrambler that I am about to start restoring/modifying. I just need to finish a boat building project that is taking up half the garage first. In the mean time I have started collecting parts.
 
#19 ·
If you have headers and they are in good shape, keep them IMO. I have a pair and they are a pain to try and keep sealed :thumbdown: but that's just a set of gaskets to fix.
 
#20 ·
The truck came with headers but their in pretty rough condition. They'll need to be replaced with something. I like the look of headers bbut I've read they can be a real pain to install and clear everything.

I think I'm still leaning towards headers but may go with shorties. Hopefully, they won't cause too much heat underhood. I've used the header wrap on motorcycles and it was really tough to clean and keep clean.
 
#22 ·
FAIL!



Whoops! Guess I should have taken the heads off prior to rotating the block in the stand... and made sure the bolts were threaded all the way into the block! It looks like the force of the block swinging was a bit too much for the grade 8 bolts I had holding the block to the stand. The bottom two bolts sheared off completely and the top two bolts slowly bent and just barely held. It was a slow-motion failure luckily. I grabbed a length of chain, secured it to the block and picked it up with the hoist. Put the stand mount back on with better (and longer) bolts and tried again. So far, so good! Lesson learned. I assume these are the type of mistakes that are made when someone with experience is nowhere to be found. :)

After the excitement of dropping the motor, I got back to it and removed the heads, oil pan, water pump and oil pump. I needed to make a run by Auto Zone to grab a vibration dampener puller after banging away at it with a rubber mallet for a few minutes. The correct tool always makes a job easier. The dampener eased off within seconds and without issue using the $16 (OEM brand) puller. Luckily there was no damage from my banging on it earlier.


So I've now got the motor torn apart... about as much as I plan on tearing it apart, that is. I didn't touch the crank, cam, cylinders, valves, springs, etc. They look to be in good condition and the thought of taking it all apart and not being able to correctly put it back together scares the hell out of me. Or worse, put it all back together and it grenades.

I removed all the old gaskets from the block, heads and oil pan using a 1.25" stiff paint scrapper/putty knife (and a rubber mallet).

Removing old head gaskets is slow, tedious work. I find that beer and music helps.


I found a small crescent-shaped hole around one of the mounting bolt on the front of the oil pan. A previous attempt was made to repair it using silicone. I thought perhaps the pan was salvageable and removed the silicone and the repaired the hole using JB Weld. Will it hold? The hole is less than 1/32" wide by possibly 1/4" long in a small, c-shape. I'm thinking the JB Weld will be okay but I'm not averse to purchasing a new pan. It's easy enough to replace the pan later should it be required.







Also, when I emptied the pan, I found a broken piece of thin, metal tubing but I can't figure out where it came from. Any ideas? After cleaning, stripped and sanded the pan and shot it with a couple coats of engine primer and then a couple coats of silver engine enamel. It looks much better but I'm still concerned about that small hole.

Anyone know what this is and where it belongs?


I also got the block cleaned, prepped, primed and the first (of 2 or 3) coat of POR-15's Engine Enamel applied (Yes, it's red! I know, I know... red Chevy, teal AMC-- I don't care. I like red.)

The first coat looks a little too pink. I'm hoping subsequent applications will result in a more "manly" red.




Next on the list is to clean, strip, prime and paint the bell housing, transmission and transfer case.

I've got a huge list of engine-related items coming from Morris 4x4 this week. Should keep me out of trouble for a little while.
 
#23 ·
Was the metal thing the end of hte dipstick tube? I can't remember what the inside part looked like, but that is at least a start in trying to figure it out.

cb
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
#28 ·
Thanks, Exposed. I may take you up on the offer! Your "Yellow Bee" build is looking great! Lots and lots of hours in that project. Very impressive. If you need any help (all I can offer is muscle at this point), please feel free to PM me.

I'm so deep in my build now and I have so little knowledge of what I'm doing, it's not even funny anymore! I look at the older pics of the Jeep when it was reasonably intact and I have a minor panic attack thinking of all the work it needs and all the knowledge I need to acquire.

In the end, I know I'll be damn proud of what I've accomplished despite the anxiety. It's great to know that such knowledgeable resources are so easily accessible-This build wouldn't have begun without the collective knowledge of JeepForum. Guaranteed.
 
#29 ·
My daughter and son-in-law live pretty close to your TRex. They are on Highland Lakes Dr. right off Glenn Lakes at 6.... Sounds like you are in their neighborhood..... We visit quite often...
 
#30 ·
trex, i'm there with you brother. I've got my tub off my '84 and getting ready to dive in to the rebuild. Sounds like i have about as much knowledge as you do. After the tub came off last week, i looked at what i had and shuddered and second-guessed. But, i just keep telling myself i'm in no rush, get it done right. My shop is about a half hour away from my home, and as of right know, is too damn cold to work in. My plan is, as i have stuff of to rebuild, clean up, etc, to bring that stuff home to my one car garage, which was just too small for the full frame-off job.



-Mike
 
#31 ·
There are alot of us who can agree with Certifiablejeep's comments:
Here is some simple math for you.

It will take 2X as long as you think, cost 3X as much and take up 4X as much space.... you don't even want to know what the 5X and 6X are... but it relates to money either way ;)

cb

When starting a restoration, it seems to be an easy challenge. Take it all apart, replace what is bad, then clean and paint, then back together.. Such a simple thought that we can plan out how it is going to go.. Figure what it is going to cost and then jump in... I think the first hint of not realizing the extent of what you are doing, where to store all the stuff that you take off!!! Then you have the new stuff coming in boxes everywhere... Then you need a nice work area to actually assemble and put things back together. Then you need an area to do the cleaning, grinding, fabricating, and painting.. Wow, then it sets in.. Man what did I get myself into???? Us older guys that have been down this road before are usually much wiser. Guess they call that experience.. ha ha.. Then comes the dollars we spend... I want to do that and want to do this, first thing you see is your budget has gone out the window... All kidding aside, restoring old vehicles is a great hobby. I love working on these old vehicles because life was simplier then... The new vehicles are really much more reliable and comfortable but being able to work on something like a Jeep is much more fun... Here I am about 80% done on my CJ5... Figured about $10k for the restoration and now will be closer to $20k... My point is, life is short, do what you enjoy and live every day like it will be your last..... When it is back together and you fire the engine for the first time, there is a great feeling of accomplishment....

Good luck on all of you guys jumping in there to do a restoration.... That is one thing great about this site, lots of guys to help the guys that don't have the experience... We all learn from each other..... There is no substution for experience......

Calvin
 
#32 ·
Although I've been working on the truck for a few hours every evening, I feel like I've not made a significant amount of progress. I've been bumbling my way through putting the engine back together (slooooowly). I'm trying to take my time and not screw too much up. The first thing I did while putting the engine together was replace the dipstick tube which went poorly. I ended up breaking the new tube (I could probably have returned it if I hadn't gone ape sh*t on it in a fit of rage). After a few searches, I found that Bulltear sells a "guaranteed to fit" dipstick tube set ($37! ouch!) and also explained that most aftermarket AMC dipstick tubes are the wrong diameter. Oh well-- I'm hoping the rest of the build doesn't follow suit.

After losing what little momentum I had from working on the engine, I decided to pull the tub. I rigged a couple heavy duty eye hooks and pulleys from the ceiling joists in the garage to hoist the tub. This process proved one of the easiest tasks in the project so far. Raise tub, roll chassis out of garage, roll trailer into garage, lower tub, roll trailer w/ tub out of garage and finally roll chassis back into garage. The whole process took about an hour. Not bad. I'm finding this project is like playing Tetris with heavy objects. :)

Unhooked all the fuel lines, body bolts and wiring from the body and simply pulled the tub off the chassis.


The chassis is in surprisingly good condition.


Started taking the chassis down to metal.


I'm planning to inspect, reinforce and cleanup the welds wherever necessary. I'll clean the chassis with Marine Clean then Metal Ready then shoot a couple coats of POR-15 and finally a couple coats of POR-15 Chassis Coat Black.

I'll likely take the tub somewhere this weekend or next to get blasted.
 
#99 ·
Trex...CJunk noticed a piece of the piston crown missing from the left hand piston, as pictured above. The chunk that is missing is approximately at the 1:30 position on that first piston. I am not speaking about the valve clearance grooves.

I am curious it you have replaced that piston?
 
#35 ·
I think that these indentations, channels, grooves or whatever they may be technically termed, are normal for these pistons. I thought the same thing upon initial inspection but every piston is identical and all the cylinders are all spotless.

I'll defer to those more knowledgable than myself though. Thanks for the keen eye.
 
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