This next set of logs I was coming down off of on Yahoo trail. It was a sharp turn so I went to back up and my shifter was in free play. The diagnosis was a broken shift cable. The good thing was some one could climb under and put her in park or in gear manually with my transmission. The badnews was someone had to climb under my rig and do this every time. We limped off the trail and drove around trying to find a replacement cable. No luck so I had to drive it home this way. It wasn't until I got home that I noticed more damage elsewhere.
From the return of that trip I had a busted leaf spring, broken shifter cable, and I had problems with the switches to my electric fan burning out. Evidently you can't run an electric part that is pulling 40amps steady to a 10amp toggle switch
It wasn't until this Feb 2011 that I started considering what I wanted to do. I know I will get criticism for going with what I went with but when I try it out on the trail that will be the ultimate way to know how she will handle. Well remember I said I had a pair of full size axles out of a 72 jimmy. I wanted to go with a Corporate 14 in the rear and was thinking about keeping my Dana 44. I decided that the cost of converting the Dana 44 hubs to 8 lug was going to be about the same price as a used Dana 60. So I started hitting craigslist. I found a guy who had what he said was a set of Dana 60's with 4.56's, lockers and about 56,000 miles on the original Chevy CUCV. He wanted $1900 for the pair. We started talking and I started doing my homework. I found that there were few and far between Chevy Dana 60 rears. I found that chances were it was a Dana 60 open up front and a Corporate 14 with a detroit locker and 4.56's.
It came to be true that what I said above was the case. It was still a good buy and should be pretty powerful on the trail with limited breaking points. So I talked the guy down to $1600 and we went and picked them up.
This first picture is my old axles. I sold the 12 bolt but am still looking for someone to take the Dana 44 Chevy front with 3.73 gears. I'll let it go for $250 if anyone is interested.
The rest we did with metal picked up from a metal shop. The handles came from that website as well and so did the dash bar. I'd do it a little different now but it still came out great. Probably invest $300 to $350 in the entire kit. I wanna do a back half for the kit and tie it into the frame. Something to consider if your just starting yours.
Thank You, Sir!
__________________ Kerrdog Go Fish! <*////><
But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
The next step with those will be to build them. I will stay with the gears and am going to purchase a seal kit for each. I am also doing a disc conversion in the corporate 14 to get better brake response and lose about 40 pounds of weight by kicking those drums to the curb. I am considering putting a aussie locker up front and keeping that detroit in the rear till it breaks.
The next step in this build was to fix my leaf spring and pick up a new shift cable from B&M. Well I wanted to go with YJ lefts up front. I had heard good things about them and looked into doing the conversion myself. I also wanted to go with the BTF Stretch kit in the rear. CJ5's have about an 83in wheel base. I wanted to get as close to a CJ7 wheel base which is about 10in longer than the 5. This stretch kit uses XJ leafs and the leaf is turned to where the center pin is closer to the rear bumper. It give about 7in of stretch. So here is what I bought.
The rear Stretch Kit Bumper from BTF. Cost me about $300.
The next was YJ Springs for the front as green89yj guessed. I did a 1.5in lift on those. I was told that lift would match up with stock XJ leafs. I ordered all new hangers to be welded in. I'll get to why I did that in a second.
Next was the stock XJ leafs for the rear and I went with a lubricating bolt and bushing set up for everything.
I also ordered a tube fender kit from BTF as well. Here are the pics.
At this point we were ready to do the spring conversion. I hadn't wanted to swap my drive line yet so we were going to put the XJ leafs in but keep the center pin closer to the driver. That was going to stretch me about an inch but I figured I had that in my slip yoke so I'd be fine.
Here is the day we rolled it in and started on the front. A few of you will remember I said I had a 2in Redneck lift that was welded under the leaf spring mounts when I gained possesion of the Jeep. I have hated this thought process and we were going to take this opportunity to fix it. Here is the example of what I am talking about.
Next was welding in the shackle mounts and hangers for the front. I used rear hangers because the rear springs in a CJ are 2 1/2in wide and YJ leafs are 2 1/2in wide where as the front CJ leafs are only 2in wide.
We welded the shackle hanger all the way around so there was really no need for a bolt. On the front rear hanger we could only weld on the outside of the hanger because of my header location from the small block. The fix was to mount the rear hangers with a bolt under the hanger for security.
Next was slapping the YJ leafs up. I made a bad calculation with the u-bolt leaf spring mounting pads. I thought we could just drill holes in the old ones to match the YJ springs. The bracket was just to short.
Luckily I had ordered a full set of brackets for my full size axles and we took a shot at them working. We had to turn the front driver side ways and the passenger side one had to be redrilled in two spots but they are BTF beefy!
Here is the finished product minus the shocks mounted or sway bar mounts welded on. It dropped about an inch in the front all together. Also with the weight of the veihicle the Leafs are pancaked out pretty good so I will have to do an add-a-leaf. I knew that going in but was hoping to not have to.
Burns? Hey man thanks! You gonna make it to Ice Breakers? I can't say just yet that the Tank Killer will be ready. I still have to have a slip yoke for my driveshaft made. We will see! Good hearing from you man!
All so with the front done it was time to get to working on the back. All in all the back took 2 days. We definately hit some snags and had to make some decisions that really modified the tank killer. Here was breaking here down in the rear.
Removing the spring packs and u-bolts way easy after hitting them with PB Blaster.
Then we removed the old custom bumper some one had built way back when.
That left the old bumper mount exposed and it was twisted up pretty good. We decided to cut it off. I will go back and reinforce the body mounts when I get a chance.
Then we cut out the redneck lift blocks. Here is what we had after each of those steps.