1979 CJ5 Build (Tank Killer) - Page 58 - JeepForum.com
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post #856 of 1245 Old 03-20-2013, 02:17 AM
VooDoo2
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I used 2 of the check valves on my GTO when i put in the drop tank (2 x 044 bosch pumps) and it worked fine. Without them the car would crank a few times before starting. They were around $50 and have a male and female fitting so a no brainer to install.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?...d=110669058527

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post #857 of 1245 Old 03-20-2013, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
I used 2 of the check valves on my GTO when i put in the drop tank (2 x 044 bosch pumps) and it worked fine. Without them the car would crank a few times before starting. They were around $50 and have a male and female fitting so a no brainer to install.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?...d=110669058527
I called Walbro Tech Support today and they told me there is a one way valve in the fuel pump and there is not really a need for another to be added in line. So we will see what happens. Thanks for the info though definately helped me gain some knowledge.

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post #858 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Another two days in the shop.....it was fun..yeah starting to get burnt out...lol First I removed the 105amp alternator and installed the 145amp. Here they are together so you can see the size difference. Then I started trying to modify the Ballistic Fab battery tray. Obviously this is made for a gel style battery and is ment to be mounted to the firewall. Since I am running a acid battery I'm not going to turn it sideways. It also needed some modifications and I am currently in the design process with this so I didn't get much done that day.
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post #859 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Also dropped my fuel cell and removed the old fuel lines. Painted a few things to try and get everything under neath ready for the fuel system.

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post #860 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Spent most of the morning running around picking up this and that. Taking a few fittings back and picking up new fuel fittings to finish my set up. The did not have 1/8 male to -6 Female. So I had to just keep the 1/8 Male to -6 male and get -6 to -6 female. Also I picked up a ton of fluids. Power Steering, Tranny, Oil, T-Case Fluid, Coolant, and forgot to get Brake fluid. Needless to say the guys at Napa appreciated my business. Also picked up several feet of 3/8 fuel hose (new vent line), coolant line 1/4 (Steam Vents), and about 6 feet of line for my Power Steering return. Used most of it too...lol. All in all the trip to Napa ran me $200. Just another area of this build I wasn't thinking was going to cost me all that much.
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post #861 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Next I worked on the upper radiator hose. I cut up my old SBC upper hose, and had a Silverado upper, and lower hose I picked from the junk yard. With the adapter fitting and a little cutting here and there I think it came out pretty well for now. I still will need to address the intake tubing but right now I'm thinking about running a little out from the intake then 90 elbow to the passenger side and mount the filter. I won't be able to make the turn back toward the firewall.
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post #862 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Then I used the steam vent line to run into the T on the adapter fitting I picked up. This line comes off the bottom of the intake.
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post #863 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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The next area was adding the what I thought was a M.O.R.E. HD Steering Mount , but quadratec sent me a damn Rustys one instead...... This of couse wasn't a bolt in application for me because of the redneck ingenuity that was my pervious Jeep Owner. So the bracket is ment to bolt into the bottom of the frame, bottom of the winch plate / front crossmember. Well one of the nuts in my frame had popped out so quick decision....cut the frame open and weld another inside. Wasn't too happy with this but really wasn't left with much choice.
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post #864 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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After that I put the bracket into position to weld and wanted to make sure all the hardware for mounting it lined up before welding.....yeah not so much. This POS Rusty bracket is 1/4 of an inch off for the bolts that thread into the winch plate. I tried moving the bracket around, loosening the others, but nothing would allow this thing to align. So I am going to have some's a$$ at Rusty's on why this bracket isn't properly made to fit. Snapped a few pics as I was running out the door. Poor quality....
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post #865 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Lastly we welded up the plate but were stopped by the shop before being able to finish the last bead of weld on the bottom. I did snap a pic of the fuel pressure guage ounted at the fuel rail from Autometer though. Also finished mounting up the power steering lines and transmission cooler lines.
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post #866 of 1245 Old 03-22-2013, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Well I rolled the Jeep back out of the shop today ready to work a 3 day weekend then Monday, Tuesday off. Unfortunately I won't get back to work on the actual jeep till next friday but I have some things to keep me busy until then. My filters came in today and I went and picked up a 90 degree elbo for the fuel cell. The -6 wouldn't work...the bung welded in was NPT. Also I called Quadratec and told them about the bad Rusty's bracket and they are mailing me out a replacement. I would have gone with a M.O.R.E mount but there was a 1 1/2 week back order....yeah so rock and a hard place.....this bracket better be right! Also grabbed a LOKAR universal shift cable from the parts store. Its 36in long but in the mock up I think its too long. Anyone had experience with doing this with the LS swap. Trying to figure out how people have successfully mounted it.
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post #867 of 1245 Old 03-23-2013, 12:31 AM
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Are you using the blue or black fuel lines with this engine? Not sure what your fuel is like over there but the blue lines are made for leaded fuels and the teflon braided stuff is made for unleaded. I found after less than 6mths the blue/black lines had all gone hard and brittle and you could smell fuel vapours although there was no fuel leaks. A call to speedflow who supply all the fittings and fuel lines and they showed me page 1 of the catalog that states not for unleaded fuels so $1500 worth of fuel system was down the drain. (we only have unleaded and the additive they put in it kill fuel lines)

(note: this was with a LS1 but not in a jeep.)



Unleaded fuel safe lines

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post #868 of 1245 Old 03-23-2013, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2
Are you using the blue or black fuel lines with this engine? Not sure what you fuel is like over there but the blue lines are made for leaded fuels and the teflon braided stuff is made for unleaded. I found after less than 6mths the blue lines had all gone hard and brittle and you could smell fuel vapours although there was no fuel leaks. A call to speedflow who supply all the fittings and fuel lines and they showed me page 1 of the catalog that states not for unleaded fuels so $1500 worth of fuel system was down the drain.

(note: this was with a LS1 but not in a jeep.)

Unleaded fuel safe lines
All unleaded here

Built Not Bought #640

1976ish cj5 304 t18 d20 2.5" lift

some year YJ custom frame HP D60 14 bolt 4 linked front rear FI 350 700r4 NP231c

2009 JK 4 door 2.5" lift 35" tires custom bumpers mile marker 9500# winch
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post #869 of 1245 Old 03-23-2013, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Unleaded gas will be used and the fuel line is Aeroquip Starlite fuel hose.

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post #870 of 1245 Old 03-23-2013, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by boarderofsnow View Post
Unleaded gas will be used and the fuel line is Aeroquip Starlite fuel hose.
The genuine stuff is Teflon lined so should be good. Beware though as there is a bit of fake Chinese stuff around. If we have seen it down here im sure you guys will have a lot more of it up there.

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...ucts/index.htm
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