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Unread 05-19-2011, 12:03 AM   #151
boarderofsnow
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The shafts were binding really bad so I will have the u joints replaced......

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Unread 05-19-2011, 12:13 AM   #152
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The next was pulling the diff cover off.

After the diff is drained the carrier will come out.

Once the carrier is out the pinion will be able to be pulled out.

With the carrier out we noticed something we hadn't noticed before. Evidentally my axles came out of one of the RARE M1009 Military vehicles with a Posi Track system in the front. Win Win!!!!!
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Unread 05-19-2011, 12:19 AM   #153
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The nut will be the next thing to come off at the yoke.

After that the yoke can come off.

Then the pinion can come apart.

Lastly if you need to have the rotors replaced you will have to pound out the lug nuts to seperate the outer part of the hub from the rotor.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 12:38 AM   #154
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Next was the Corporate 14 bolt for the rear.

8 bolts come off and the axle shaft slips right out.

From there you have access to the hub.

Almost the same as the Dana 60 just a few different areas. The lock ring is the next to come off.

From there a very small square key will be pulled out.

Then you have access to the nut and can remove it.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 06:10 AM   #155
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At this point the drum will slide off.

Just like the Dana 60 rotor the drum rotor will have to be seperated from the hub by hammering out the lug nuts. In the case of my Corp 14 I am going with disc brakes in the rear to lighten the axle a little. I'll show more on that when I get the parts ordered.

Also just incase anyone hadn't seen what these lug nuts looked like I took a picture.

With the drum off you have access to the four bolts on the inside of the drum brake. This will be the plate the Caliper bracket for the disc brake mounts too.

Take those four bolts out and the rest of the drum disco's.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 06:19 AM   #156
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With the drums off you can now move to the diff.

Once the diff cover is off and the fluid is drained you can remove the carrier straps.

The diff housing for a full floater may have movable races that are locked in. Remember to mark them if your staying with the same gears.

Lastly the pinion will come out by removing 6 bolts on the front side of the axle.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 06:28 AM   #157
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At this point the axle housing is back at home with me for a few days. I will take this time to clean them up and paint them. Also I will order the parts for them. Since I am trying to eliminate the weak link of straps I will be ordering new yokes. My current yoke set up on the axles is 1310 but I will go with 1350's and a ubolt set up. I would consider 1410's but think its over kill and it really limits what driveshafts you run.

I am also going to have to pull my transfer case yokes on that as well and swap them to 1350's. I was going to do a dual stick set up on that T-Case but will wait and see how the front axle reacts with that Posi Track setup on the trail.

Now its time to order parts, parts, parts. Oh and my drive shafts were 35 spline. This is important to know if ordering parts like lockers and such. In this case I will already be locked front and rear so......
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Unread 05-19-2011, 06:32 AM   #158
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Wow. Nice work
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Unread 05-19-2011, 06:54 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisCJ7 View Post
Wow. Nice work


Thank you! Its a work in progress but definately getting there. Its nice to see all the hard work coming together and it helps during the build (but can be a hassle) to stop and take pictures of everything!
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Unread 05-20-2011, 07:27 AM   #160
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Lookin good bro! Those axles are gonna be freakn sweet
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Unread 05-20-2011, 11:46 AM   #161
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Your thread time span is short. How long have you been working on your CJ? Nice work by the way.
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Unread 05-20-2011, 02:13 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boo-urns View Post
Lookin good bro! Those axles are gonna be freakn sweet


Thanks man! I am definately excited to get them done.
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Unread 05-20-2011, 02:17 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by justjeeps View Post
Your thread time span is short. How long have you been working on your CJ? Nice work by the way.


Yes the thread time span is short. I picked the Jeep up from my Step-Dad in 08 and had her running by the spring of 09. From there I just took pictures for insurance purposes and then when I started doing research on what I wanted to do with mine there weren't a lot of detailed threads out there. I figured why not and started this thread up a few months ago. Over all, right now I have about 3 years into this build but really I only work on her during the summers because the winters here are too cold (i don't have a garage) and she hasn't been running right until the end of last year.

Thanks for the props!!!!
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Unread 05-20-2011, 02:23 PM   #164
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Started cleaning up the axles today and getting them painted. I will have to cut off the old shock mounts so they are not getting hung up on anything. I plan on welding new shock mount brackets to the axles. More to come. Oh yeah and I order my bearing and seal kits for the axles. They should be in by Monday or Tuesday. Went with Koyo bearing kit from Off-Road Design. Dana 60 Kit cost me about $80.00 bbcause I didn't go with axle seals. We felt the old axles seals and they weren't brittle or cracked. The 14 bolt seal and bearing kit cost me $140.00 and I also bought 1350 yokes for the rear and my rear output on the T-Case. Since I have a 205 T Case the front output is 10 spline and will need to be swapped to a 32 spline like the rear output for me to run a 1350.

The reason we are going to 1350 yokes is because I want to eliminate straps on the yokes and go with U Bolts. The reason I didn't go with 1410's right now is because I figure I will still have to run a CV in the rear until I stretch her more in the future.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 04:32 AM   #165
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I was able to get some more work done on the axles today. I had time to get the Dana 60 stripped down and primed. After that I painted her gloss black. Will hit it again later today and hopefully have the 14 Bolt done as well.
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