1978 cj5 with 258 motor and carter 1 barrel - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-23-2015, 12:11 PM   #1
deer1978
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1978 CJ5 
 
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1978 cj5 with 258 motor and carter 1 barrel

I have redone every bit of the timing on this jeep and it is in time. The jeep will try to start, and will start as long as i pump the pedal, but then it will die. sounds good though when it does start. fuel vapor canister has been removed along time ago. im needing help with any info on this carb, and i could use a vaccum diagram to get all the vaccum hoses in there correct position. I just bought this jeep a week ago and replaced distributor, water pump, fuel pump, fuel lines, cleaned the tank, new filters, both new timing gears and chain

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Unread 08-23-2015, 01:24 PM   #2
RedNeckCorvette
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Start with your gas filter - change it out for a new one. Don't make it bigger than it is one thing at a time.
RN
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Unread 08-23-2015, 01:49 PM   #3
deer1978
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just changed that filter yesterday. still wont stay running. Where can i find a vaccum diagram?
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Unread 08-23-2015, 02:50 PM   #4
turbogus
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I have that same YF carb on 'Easy Bake' a black panel van. I had similar symptoms unitl I discovered that varnish had built up at the choke butterfly and subsequently got stuck in the closed position. Concerted brushing with a toothbrush and carb cleaner rendered mine free again, but it was the devil to discover as there is minimal sight clearance in a van with an engine doghouse extrusion limiting your view of the carb.
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Unread 08-23-2015, 06:09 PM   #5
John Strenk
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Could be a lot of different thing wrong with the carb.

I would start with a $15.00 rebuild kits and then look for tips on this site.

It could be a plugged passage in the main circuit if it runs on pumping the gas pedal...

Did it always run this way or just started happening?
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Unread 08-24-2015, 01:07 AM   #6
deer1978
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it does have some varnish built up on the butterfly but not much. I just ordered the walker products rebuild kit for 17.99.
I traded my old ramcharger for this jeep not even a week ago, and the guy i bought it from said that itll start but wont stay running. I cleaned the gas tank really good, cleaned the carb with carb cleaner ( didnt change anything ) and played with the fuel mixture screw and ive got it to where it will start and idle for about 10 seconds before it dies, if i tap the pedal, it will idle longer, but it will pop and backfire out the carb if i try revving it any at all. I didnt tear the carb apart when i cleaned it, but i sprayed a couple cans of cleaner in every place i could get with it off the jeep. But it does now atleast idle on its own although for a short time, compared to when i brought it home last week
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Unread 08-24-2015, 01:08 AM   #7
deer1978
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It also has a little bitty air breather on it from oreillys, the filter is about the same size as a lawn mower engine, so im going to find an original air cleaner, but i did have the air filter off when it was idling just so i knew it was getting plenty of air.
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Unread 08-24-2015, 01:25 PM   #8
JeffreyCharles
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Fortunately the YF is very easy to rebuild. Mine gets picky at idle for two reasons: if any of the screws holding the upper and lower halves together are loose it'll run, but not idle well (monster vacuum leakage); and the idle jet is easily clogged if any crud makes its way past the various filters. I've had that happen more than once. Easy to clear (after tear-down) with compressed air and, in one instance, a *really* thin needle I borrowed from the wife's sewing machine kit. Of course, an old carb might have all sorts of other wear that introduces vacuum leaks, etc. You won't really know until you pull it and take it completely apart.
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Unread 08-24-2015, 08:17 PM   #9
deer1978
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alright thanks jeff, after i get back home friday i have a rebuild kit waiting at oreillys to rebuild it, and ill let you know how it goes and how she runs. thank you alot
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Unread 08-24-2015, 09:12 PM   #10
Blake_S
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I had a 74 CJ with one of those YFs on it. It was the best and worst all wrapped into one package. The best part was it is about as simple as a carb can get. If it is clean, it will probably run, and run well. The coke can be manual or electric pull off and they only seem to need the choke in the dead of winter. It's also really easy to disassemble and rebuild. I rebuilt mine a couple of times before I figured out what was happening to make it run bad.

The bad part about this carb is it wants to come apart between the upper and lower halves (as mentioned above by Jeffrey). The fix I used for this was to drill out all of the threaded holes in the lower half and replace the screws with slightly longer screws and add locking nuts to the under side of the mating plate. If I remember correctly I had to make my own locking nuts because the lack of space didn't allow for a typical locking nut. I did this by oblonging the nuts on an anvil with a hammer. I suppose some thread lock would have worked too, but back then I loved to beat up on things way more than I needed to.

After I did this trick to seal the two halves together the carb worked perfectly for the next 10 plus years I owned it. Once I got this fix done I noticed one more great thing about the YF... They are pretty economical.
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Unread 08-26-2015, 05:37 PM   #11
deer1978
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mine doesnt seem to be coming apart between the halves. i did notice you can see where someone has had a screwdriver on all the screws before so its probably been rebuilt a time or three. One thing i need to know is that where my gas goes into the carb from the fuel hose, theres a spot to the side of the male fitting that has nothing screwed into it, and when i took the carb off and cleaned it, it dumped all the gas out of the fuel bowl i beleive. Does anyone know what the second opening is for? can i just plug it or does something else need to be hooked up to it?
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Unread 08-26-2015, 07:13 PM   #12
CSP
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Are you talking about the fitting at the back, to the right side in this photo? If so, that's a heat riser tube for the choke.



This webpage might be of assistance. http://jeep.smallcraft.net/carburetor/
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Unread Yesterday, 07:29 AM   #13
deer1978
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Nope not that one lol. Your fuel line closest to you on the carb is the one I have. What's the one go to that's the farthest from you in the picture for? That's the one I'm missing so I've stuck a bolt up in it to plug it for now. Just rebuilt the carb and it still backfires out the carb. I'm on TDC
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Unread Yesterday, 08:10 AM   #14
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deer1978 View Post
Nope not that one lol. Your fuel line closest to you on the carb is the one I have. What's the one go to that's the farthest from you in the picture for? That's the one I'm missing so I've stuck a bolt up in it to plug it for now. Just rebuilt the carb and it still backfires out the carb. I'm on TDC
Pretty sure that's a vent. Why are you running on TDC? When on TDC for #1, verified by a stick in the spark plug hole, is the balancer on 0? It in needs some advance to run properly.
I would be wanting to put a compression test on it to see what that shows. A burned valve or the timing way out can cause carb backfires
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Unread Yesterday, 08:35 AM   #15
CSP
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Yep that's the vent for the fuel bowl. It's supposed to go to the charcoal canister.
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