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Unread 04-29-2008, 07:40 PM   #16
ctm
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 1,427
man reading this thread is like watching the Pro Bowl or an All-Star game. you guys are awesome.

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Unread 04-30-2008, 09:10 AM   #17
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,912
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtstang View Post
Thanks JeepHammer, got the diode today and all worked well.
My wire was a Black W/Red TR solid wire about 2' longer than the rest of the wires.
Next after reading all the HEI post I will check my gear, then I will put on the weber 32/36.

Thanks for the help
Dave
I can't take all the credit, I have a lot of help with things.
John Strenk is my sounding board, he finds the faults in my diagrams and comes up with LOTS of ideas...
He's also the resident 'Gauge Guy'...
Something I HATE dealing with is factory gauges!

But thanks anyway, I'm glad we could help get you up and running!
---------

With the gear, if you take a drill to the gear and it's very hard to drill a pilot hole in, it's a hardened gear and shouldn't be used!

Proper gears are ductile iron and fairly soft, easy to drill.
You can use the V-8 gear from someplace like MSD, they have the only gear on the market that I'm aware of that is BETTER than the factory gear, or you can use a factory replacement from NAPA/Echlin...
The most common part number is DG 400, but you really need to measure the shaft where the gear installs to get it right.

DG 400, DG 401 & DG 402 go up in center hole size, and if your shaft is slighty too large, it's perfectly acceptable to use emery cloth polish the shaft down a little by spinning it in a drill.
------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctm View Post
man reading this thread is like watching the Pro Bowl or an All-Star game. you guys are awesome.
It's amazing what you can convey when calm adults talk things through!

All too often we get people that are in a blind panic and don't read/think through what they are being told,
OR,
They let ego or something someone told them that may or may not, have been correct in the first place sway them.

Nothing like a calm conversation with guys that are going to think things trough!...
Kind of like a chess game sometimes, you have to anticipate what the possible outcomes are, and lay in contingency plans for each possibility...
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Unread 05-22-2008, 06:57 PM   #18
jdw2774
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1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1
Ignition problem

I have a 1979 CJ5 with very similar ignition issues. It started running rough and after new plugs, wires, rotor and fuel filter, it cranked and quit right out of the driveway. No spark at coil so replaced coil. Still no spark. Does that indicate the Modual??
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Unread 05-23-2008, 08:58 AM   #19
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,912
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdw2774 View Post
I have a 1979 CJ5 with very similar ignition issues. It started running rough and after new plugs, wires, rotor and fuel filter, it cranked and quit right out of the driveway. No spark at coil so replaced coil. Still no spark. Does that indicate the Modual??
Normally, you should start your own thread, but since this one is 'Dead' (Original Poster problem solved) I guess this is just fine...

1979 CJ used the Jeep/Motorcraft/DuraSpark ignition.

Your distributor is a Motorcraft (Ford) so it's VERY tunable and as reliable as a hammer.

Your ignition module is a DuraSpark (Ford) and was designed as a good ignition system, but in practice, it's not so reliable...

DO NOT LEAVE YOUR IGNITION TURNED TO "RUN" WHEN THIS VEHICLE ISN'T RUNNING!

Now begs the question, The plug, wires, ect. you put on it, were they the Upgraded Large Cap parts, or were they the small stock replacements?

--------------------------------------

There is a VERY large possibility that the ignition module is cooked.
It's on the drivers side inner fender, towards the back.
You can get it tested for free, but if you are going to buy the $25 discount store 'Import' module, you might want to keep a comfortable pair of walking shoes in the vehicle...

A reasonable factory replacment module will run $80 or more.
----------------------------------------

You have two 'Easy' choices for replacing that module with something more reliable...

1. http://www.JunkYardGenius.com/igniti...EIcompair.html

User John Strenk has an excellent write up on this same deal, but I don't have a link, maybe he'll post it up for you.
This is VERY reliable and about $30.

2. Switch to a CDI module like Summit or MSD.
500% more spark energy than the stock ignition, but it's going to run you about $200.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Now, ask questions, that's what this forum is for!
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Unread 05-24-2008, 08:14 AM   #20
79cherokee
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Columbia, Illinois
Posts: 135
Can someone inform me a little more on the extra ground wires that are being talked about on the module and the distributor? (on motocraft set up on an 84 cj7) I had a post earlier and replaced my pick up coil and it ran fine, but the more I read this I think it was a ground problem. I don't want to take any chances on loosing fire again!
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03 Liberty Sport 4x4 3.7 auto, stock
84 CJ7 2.5 4 speed , stock
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Unread 05-24-2008, 09:22 AM   #21
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,912
Quote:
Originally Posted by 79cherokee View Post
Can someone inform me a little more on the extra ground wires that are being talked about on the module and the distributor? (on motocraft set up on an 84 cj7) I had a post earlier and replaced my pick up coil and it ran fine, but the more I read this I think it was a ground problem. I don't want to take any chances on loosing fire again!
Virtually the ONLY way to kill a factory coil is by loosing electrical 'Ground' to the engine head(s).

When the head(s) don't get ground, the circuit isn't completed, so the high voltage electrical discharged will jump to ground INTERNALLY, inside it's own coil....
Burning the crap out of the wires in there when it does.

If you add a DEDICATED GROUND WIRE from the battery negative terminal or negative binding post, to the engine head(s) the secondary, or high voltage discharge, will have somewhere to go...
And the bonus is your plugs will fire like they are supposed to!

Some tips,
Use about a 12 Ga. common wire from the battery or binding post.

Clean off the connection point on the head with sandpaper, get down to clean metal before attachment.

Use an Internal Star Washer (Gripper teeth on the inside of the hole) so the contact point STAYS connected.

Use some 'Copper' or 'Gold Colored' 'Anti-Seize' compound on the joint.
The copper base is conductive, so you keep an electrical connection, and the grease helps seal out moisture and dirt.

Run the ground wire on over to the ignition module.
I usually connect it to the 'Black' module wire HARNESS SIDE.
If you connect to the module wire it's self instead of the harness, your warranty might be void on the module,
AND,
You will have to reconnect each time you change modules.

Just trace the 'Back' module wire across it's connector, and splice the ground in on the 'Harness' side of the connector.

The reason for this is the entire Primary side of the ignition system grounds through the module.
Ignition coil and module BOTH get ground through the module...
The distributor is supposed to supply ground to the 'Black' wire, but after 22+ years of corrosion, rust, loose bolts and oil reside, very few ground connections are reliable.
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