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Unread 12-30-2013, 02:54 PM   #226
bradleybrb
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Thanks Hasselback, I was thinking they would work, but wasn't sure how well. Good to know they will work great. Thanks for the heads up on the rear view mirror. I hadn't thought of that. I ordered a dome light, but it hasn't came in yet. If it doesn't work out, I will hunt me up one. Oh yeah, your Jeep is coming along nice!

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Unread 12-30-2013, 03:35 PM   #227
DeafJeep
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The boat looks very nice and I am sure that will be one well deserved break once the icy snow thaws and springtime kicks into high gear. Be interesting to see how the hardtop project is coming along.

P.S. Don't forget to throw in one of those HD sunglasses for fishing season on glassy n' shiny waters.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 03:45 PM   #228
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Thanks DeafJeep! So far, all I've done with the hard top is look at it! I did clear me out some space in the shop so I can get started on it.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 07:38 AM   #229
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Got a question. I blacked out the inside of my speaker box, mounted the speakers and dome light in it. I got it placed in the Jeep and the wires ran down through the windshield header. I plan on switching the dome light through the headlight switch using a wiring diagram of the headlight switch on here. The instructions on the dome light say to use an inline 2 amp fuse. My question is since I am running it through the headlight switch do I still need to put an inline fuse on it? It's no big deal to put one in, but I really don't want anymore crap than I have too behind the dash. There are already plenty of wires back there!
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Unread 01-13-2014, 03:00 PM   #230
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Got the speaker box mounted and interior lights mounted and all hooked up. I had to pull the radio (which I wasn't planning on) and stand on my head under the dash to get it done. I also got one more thing off my piddling list done. I got the hazzard lights working. I was pretty pumped about that until the radio, cig. lighter and a couple other things stopped working!!! It seems I have a bad connection in the fuse block. I didn't take it apart during my build mainly because I didn't know too. I took the 3/8" headed bolt in the engine compartment out and tried to pull it apart and have a look. It wouldn't budge. I sure don't want to screw something up at this point. I did a search and couldn't find exactly how to get the fuse block apart. Can someone help me out with it? Do you have to take the torque screws out from the inside too, or can you leave them in and take the 3/8" under the hood out and pull it apart? Does it just pull apart or is there is a trick. I didn't put too much pressure on it Saturday. I was pretty frustrated that I got one of the things working that wouldn't and now It is one of the few things that does work!! Is that a freaking Jeep or what???
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Unread 01-15-2014, 09:06 AM   #231
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Well, Thanks to some info from John Strenk I piddled with the fuse block last night and got the radio and other stuff working, but hold on.......now the flashers don't work again! I guess I will have to pull it completely apart and see if I can figure out what the heck is going on. I just hope I have enough room and don't have to pull the harness out. Must be a gremlin in there. I don't think I have ever had a Jeep where every single thing electrical worked all the time and I have came too far now to not get everything working! If anybody has any insight I could probably use it.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 09:41 AM   #232
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Haven't been driving the Jeep much. It's just been too cold without a hardtop! I did put my insulates on the other day for a spin up the road. People were looking at me like I was crazy, but I didn't care. I was happy to take it for a spin! I have been working on Jeeplins or gremlins or whatever this thing has in it since it's been too cold to do much to the hardtop. I got the back-up lights working. It is the first time that I ever remember them working so I was pretty happy. The fix went just like it was supposed too. After tracing down and checking wires I discovered it was the switch.


Now the radio, brake light, cigar lighter problem has been anything but textbook. I have had the stupid fuse block apart 5 times I bet. Everything is working for now, but it had been before and just quit. Hopefully I have it fixed for good this time. There was some connections that needed a really good cleaning or at least I think that's what the deal was. It is a back breaker upside down on top of your head in under the dash.


I got the speaker bar finished and installed. I am tickled of how it turned out. The dome light will really come in handy.




I piddled with the fuel and temp gauges yesterday afternoon. Hopefully I can get them working next. The fuel gauge just goes back and forth like a pendulum on a clock and the temp gauge is pegged on hot. Both are new so not sure what the deal is yet. I have been looking at spring options also. I plan on riding the wheels off of it this summer. It rides worse than I remember as a kid and probably worse than a wagon too boot! The springs are just way too stiff and the fronts are a little short. I think. I have talked to the guys at Alcan spring a couple times and seriously considering having them build me a set. It's a lot of money for me though, but not really that much more than some other options I have looked at. I am not sure how much lift I have since my dad had the springs re-arched all those years ago. I love the way it sits up right now, but don't want it any higher. I am guessing I have a 2 - 3" lift. Any of you got any ideas on that?
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Unread 01-28-2014, 09:54 AM   #233
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Like that sound bar shes looking good.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 10:00 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roboto65 View Post
Like that sound bar shes looking good.
Thanks! At least I can hear the radio now! Got to do a little work on the sunglasses holder. I thought the tilt down from the roll bar to the windshield header would be enough to keep them it there, but they bounced out when I took it out the other day. You making any progress on your build?
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Unread 01-28-2014, 10:05 AM   #235
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Well sort of the machine shop said everything is done except putting the pistons on the rods. I am stuck on the boat till March 4th ugh but hey I will have all the parts ready and waiting to build the engine and get the brakes going.
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Unread 01-28-2014, 10:13 AM   #236
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That sounds like a good deal. I wish I could figure out how to work on mine when I wasn't working on it! lol
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Unread 01-31-2014, 07:57 AM   #237
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After reading a ton of stuff from "Mr. Jeep electric" John Strenk, I think I have my gauges figured out. I just wanted to double check with you guys to make sure. The old fuel gauge didn't ohm out right or it would olm out right one time and then not the second. I put a new fuel gauge in and I think I have it right and it seems to ohm out right on my work bench. The ohms to the ground are different than what was listed in what I read. What does that mean and is that a problem? Here is what it ohm.
ground to S - 56 (supposed to be 71)
ground to I - 35 (supposed to be 51)
ground to A - 35 (supposed to be 35)
S to I - 20
S to A - 20
I to A - .4

Are the ones to the ground a problem? Any advise?

I think my main problem before was this. The speedometer assembly was well grounded, but I wasn't getting a good connection at the gauge. From what I have read and understood the gauges make ground contact with the dimples on the speedometer assembly in this picture. My problem was the dimples went big enough to make a good contact so I placed a small block of wood on the inside and took a punch and hammer and made them bigger. They seem to be making contact, but the ohms being off has me wondering if I am right.


Those dimples go in the holes in the back of the gauge between the S and A posts to ground it. Is that right? Here is a pic of the gauge and you can see the hole I am talking about.


Any advise or input would be great. I don't want to put it all back together and burn the gauge up and have to take it all back apart again!
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Unread 01-31-2014, 11:53 AM   #238
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where did you get the chrome or stainless cowl cover for the 72-75s i cant find one anywhere
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Unread 01-31-2014, 12:45 PM   #239
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Originally Posted by joynerjeep View Post
where did you get the chrome or stainless cowl cover for the 72-75s i cant find one anywhere
I got it from Tedford's Jeep parts in Batesville MS. His number is 1-662-563-9522. He is a good guy and had several hard to find parts. Maybe he can hook you up. He had old and new parts laying everywhere.
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Unread 01-31-2014, 02:06 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradleybrb View Post
After reading a ton of stuff from "Mr. Jeep electric" John Strenk, I think I have my gauges figured out. I just wanted to double check with you guys to make sure. The old fuel gauge didn't ohm out right or it would olm out right one time and then not the second. I put a new fuel gauge in and I think I have it right and it seems to ohm out right on my work bench. The ohms to the ground are different than what was listed in what I read. What does that mean and is that a problem? Here is what it ohm.
ground to S - 56 (supposed to be 71)
ground to I - 35 (supposed to be 51)
ground to A - 35 (supposed to be 35)
S to I - 20
S to A - 20
I to A - .4

Are the ones to the ground a problem? Any advise?

I think my main problem before was this. The speedometer assembly was well grounded, but I wasn't getting a good connection at the gauge. From what I have read and understood the gauges make ground contact with the dimples on the speedometer assembly in this picture. My problem was the dimples went big enough to make a good contact so I placed a small block of wood on the inside and took a punch and hammer and made them bigger. They seem to be making contact, but the ohms being off has me wondering if I am right.


Those dimples go in the holes in the back of the gauge between the S and A posts to ground it. Is that right? Here is a pic of the gauge and you can see the hole I am talking about.


Any advise or input would be great. I don't want to put it all back together and burn the gauge up and have to take it all back apart again!
The dimples are just there to keep the gauge alighned, so ot doesn't short out if the gauge gets twisted. The copper strip on the back of the gauge is the contact that make contact with the inside of the housing.

But it looks like you painted the inside of the housing so the copper can't make contact properly. You are going to have to remove some of that paint all the way down to bare metal. Bending the copper on the back of the gauge will also help making good contact.

Put the gauge in place and wiggle it around a little and see were it scrapes the paint on the housing. This is were you should scrape the paint away.

Also, all that black is going to make your gauges hard to see at night. Should paint it with a bright white, but leave a spot for the gauge to ground properly.

I wouldn't sweat the the resistance. a lot of replacement gauges have different resistance but still work the same.

If you can, test them out with some resistors to make sure it works.
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