Hey guys. Iím having a problem with my clutch linkage. I am not 100% sure the name of the part, but I believe it is the release rod/adjuster. At the end of the linkage, there is an adjustable rod with a metal ball at the end of it. Itís the last part of the clutch linkage before it hits that plate that actually goes into the clutch. Well here is my problem. No matter how much I adjust that rod (expand it out to make it longer, to keep more pressure against that plate) it always seems to pop out at some point while on the trail. I am tired of having to get under there and pop it back into place over and over again each day I drive it on the trails. To make matters worse, even though it is a little bit better now that I have tightened it up (expanded it to make it longer and keep more pressure on that plate), my clutch now doesnít engage unless itís basically up at my neck. The more I expand that adjuster to keep more pressure on the rod to that plate, the later the clutch is going to catch. I have found new clutch replacement parts, but am confused how that will fix my problem unless my problem is that the ball at the end of the rod/adjuster is just so worn that it doesnít stay properly. Click on this link and it is the part labeled ďrelease rod and adjuster.Ē http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/clutch-l...ch_linkage.gif The only difference on my part, is that at the end of the adjuster it is more like a round metal ball. Not a washer looking thing with a hole in it like that one appears to be in the crappy picture. Are there any remedies to making this piece stay better? Also, the release spring IS still attached to the release lever (plate) and correctly attached to my frame for extra compression. I just canít keep this damn thing on. If my description isnít good enough, I can try to take pictures later of my actual piece. I am sure most of you know what I am talking about though.
Since this is a '74 with an open c-channel frame it isn't a function of the adjustment being correct. It's a matter of frame twist. My '75 used to do this on a regular basis before I went to a hydraulic clutch.
The distance between the frame and engine decreases when you flex one way and you almost can't disengage the clutch. Flex it the other way and the distance increases, leading to the adjuster rod popping out of the indentation in the clutch fork.
You may want to check the condition of your motor mounts as a bad one will make this happen more often. I found that a stiff spring mounted to the clutch fork and bellcrank almost eliminated this popout condition also, but it would still happen on occasion.
That's the same twisting that binds up and makes shifting impossible sometimes 'til you kill the engine to shift and restart with the clutch in. There's a write up somewhere about using heim links to correct that linkage problem.
Heim joints won't correct the problem of the frame twisting though. Once the distance between the bellcrank and clutch forks reaches a certain point it won't matter what the end of the linkage is made with. It's going to pop out.
The spring was the only thing that minimized the part popping out and going hydro solved it completely.
That picture you posted is correct. The first picture is what attaches to the linkage working its way up to the pedal and the second picture fits on the other end of it and presses against that plate. I do believe that it is EXACTLY what you are talking about when it comes to frame flex though. I can feel the frame flexing a little and regardless of how much pressure I create by expanding it outward a little by unthreading it some, it still pops out. It is super freaking frustrating having to go under there and pop it back in when everything is hot. The only way I can completely solve the issue is if I ride with my foot actually pushing a decent amount of pressure on the clutch pedal itself without disengaging the clutch. This seems to add enough pressure to stop it from happening. What is most frustrating of all, though, is that unless I have those pieces expanded enough to where the pressure is pretty darn great, it comes out every 1 or 2 minutes. So im driving around with my knee basically in my chest because the clutch doest engage/disengage until its at its highest point now. I tried to find a nice medium, but it just falls out unless I have it very tightly expanded under there. I wish the indentation of that plate was a little deeper. I feel as if it would happen less if that ball could sink in that hole more.
Try a stiff spring between the clutch fork and the arm of the bellcrank that the release rod attaches to. It makes a world of difference. I used to keep my foot on the pedal also prior to installing a spring.
sorry for my novice usage of terms, but the only spring i have on there right now is the spring that connects that plate going into my clutch, to a small hole in the frame. Is that what you mean? Aside from that, the pressure between those two parts seems really good. But ONLY when I expand that piece to make it that way. Which, once again, makes my clutch catch so freakin high its rediculous. My clutch pedal basically slaps the bottom of my balls by the time it engages/disengages now. There has to be some sort of redneck engineering to keep this ball pressed against that plate during frame flex...
What if I welded 4 small plates around the perimeter of that place. Just about a 1/4" all around the outside of the hole and just about 1" off the plate going toward the front of the jeep. They would act as walls basically, so when the ball pops out it would hit the wall and find its way back and re-seat itself. It seems like there would be enough room for everything to move the way it has to naturally and not hit the walls. Bad idea? easier suggestion? I can take a pictures of my actual linkage later to see if you guys think the wear on the ball at the end has anything to do with it
There is supposed to be a spring from the arm going into the clutch that goes forward and hooks on the bell crank. This spring runs beside the adjuster and simply holds it in place. A chunk of wire would also work, but you woulod have to change the wire every time you adjusted the clutch.
Your clutch pedal is supposed to have an inch or so of slop up top so this spring is needed to hold the adjuster in place.
Mine also falls out just like yours without this spring.
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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yep, thats it exactly. Instead of "plate" i will now call it "throwout lever" lol. Thanks for the picture. What a pain in the *** this is when trail riding, especially during frame flex over fallen trees.