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Unread 08-10-2012, 10:51 PM   #16
dman1049
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Silverdale, Wa
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Messed with points and it sputters doesnt run well and you have to keep it flored or it wont start. Points arnt new I will be getting new ones. Its sat most of its life. Was lied to on parts from past people that worked on it. O and radiator has holes in it.

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Unread 08-10-2012, 11:44 PM   #17
dman1049
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Whats the best way to retard the distributor? I cant retard anymore do to the vaccum advance already against the block. Everything is set at 0 tdc. These motors like a little retardation correct?
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Unread 08-11-2012, 12:52 AM   #18
CJ258
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1974 CJ5 
 
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Sometimes the advance weights will rust up and not move too. Check to see if they are moving freely. Good to see you have it running somewhat.
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Unread 08-11-2012, 03:00 AM   #19
RWise
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1981 CJ5 
 
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Set the points at .017 - .020, at the widest point, no feeler gauge, use a paper match. You can rotate the plug wires on the cap, just hold the firing order, you will need to rotate the dizzy to get close to TDC for number 1. (move the plug wires one direction and the dizzy the other) I think that a good starting point for the timing is 8* BTDC.
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Unread 08-11-2012, 06:49 AM   #20
gpower77
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Distributer has to be setup where it begins firing BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). If its retarded to much it will not hardly run at all, hit n miss. The only way to correct the vacuum advance hitting the block is to pull the distributer and move it a tooth. Do you have a timing light? I would check to see where #1 is firing with the timing light before you do anything else. If you have a timing light, one with the dial, set it to 10. Then turn engine over and check to see if the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is lined up with the timing cover mark. Use the 0 line, because youve set the timing light to show 10 degrees BTDC. Provided that the harmonic balancer is in good shape and the outer ring has not slipped....that would throw off the timing marks. This can be verified by pulling the #1 plug and getting the piston to TDC on COMPRESSION stroke. Then check your timing marks on balancer.

Keep picking away at it!

Garry
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Unread 08-11-2012, 11:07 AM   #21
dman1049
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I dont have a timing light. All marks line up on the compression stroke. Ill have to pull distributor and move a tooth.
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Unread 08-11-2012, 12:20 PM   #22
dman1049
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Got her running boys. Thanks for the help.
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Unread 08-11-2012, 09:56 PM   #23
dman1049
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Now its doesnt like higher rpms. Misses and runs funny but idle to mid rpm runs awesome. Any ideas?
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Unread 08-12-2012, 02:17 AM   #24
CJ258
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1974 CJ5 
 
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Some of the older Jeeps have their timing set at 5*. You may still have a problem with the vacuum advance weights sticking, the vacuum line cracked or unplugged.
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Unread 08-12-2012, 07:01 AM   #25
Joe73CJ5
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Could be a gas feed or carb bowl float problem. The carb may be running out of fuel at higher rpms.
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Unread 08-12-2012, 02:15 PM   #26
dman1049
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Where are the weights? How can you see if they are moving?
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Unread 08-12-2012, 06:29 PM   #27
gpower77
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They are underneath the plate where the points and condensor are mounted to. Will have a spring on each side. Centrifical force along with the weights will allow the distributer to advance, then as rpms slows the springs help to close it back down. There will be some screws around the outside of the distributer body you will have to remove in order to get the plate off. Then you will see the advance. Leave the distributer in the block, and then put your rotor back on the top and then see if it will turn, rotate, a little bit then spring back. Ive seen the mechanisms stuck before, and need a little bit of ZEP or WD-40 to loosen up. If springs are rusty you better replace them. Also then check to see that the weights flop out then back in.

Garry
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Unread 12-01-2012, 03:19 PM   #28
MPmedic
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
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OK, been having similar issues, what was the outcome on this Dman? Is she running right after that last tip or was it something else?
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