New plugs. New cap and rotor. New coil. Rebuilt carb. Correct firing order. Only 60000 miles. Has compression. Wont start even with starting fluid. Plugs smelled of gas a little but not fould or wet. Any ideas gentleman? Thank you for your time.
Spark - have you taken off a plug lead and tested it with an old spark plug resting on the cylinder head? When you turn the engine over you should get a regular blue spark and sharp crack.
Timing - easy enough. Take out #1 spark plug and turn it by hand with a finger over the plug hole until you feel pressure and turn it until timing mark appears on the pulley. Is the rotor pointing at #1 lead? Are the points just opening? At least with points you can hear and see them opening.
Carb - when you work the accelartor can you see fuel being injected into the throat of the carb?
How much compression? (on all cylinders) (should be about 120 - 150)
With timing mark lined up on crank, does rotor point to number 1 plug wire? If no then correct that, if yes 180* out is possible, swap wires straight across the dizzy cap. Also the harmonic balance may have slipped in which case the mark is no longer good (replace it) (one can use a straw to find TDC, rotate the engine by hand with the straw inserted into number 1 cylinder)(helps to pull all plugs)
Has timing chain been checked?
On the firing order, I have seen folks use reversed rotation, make sure the order is in the correct direction on the cap, though if this were the problem it should try and spit pop etc,,,
The best cleaner for points is a picture of President Washington, slip it between the points close them and pull out said picture, you will see the crud on the bill. This leaves a smoother contact surface than a file ever can! It can be any bill so a $100 bill will work the same as a $1 bill, long live those points!
It has spark and ill check firing order again... i noticed that as I rotate the motor over with the cap off the distrubutor the points always seem to be incontact never open or snap. Arnt they supposed to open and close? Also it does finally sputter and such but the vacuum advance is all the way against the block so I cant retard the timing any more. Does this mean anything or no? I dont have a compression tester all I know is turing it over by hand is difficult.
It should start with starter-fluid, even with the ignition system unplugged. It will auto ignite when compresed. Usually if it ONLY runs with starter fluid, then you know its probobly an ignition problem.
If it wont run with starter-fluid, I'd be checking things like the timing chain. Though you have good compression.
I did the straw trick with the piston to find tdc and the timing marks and rotor in distributor all are where they are supposed to be. Could the jetting be too lean in the carb? Its a signle barrel carter. Also have a brand new webber. Not sure which webber it is tho.
Are you sure you set up the distributor with the #1 cylinder at TDC during the compression cycle and not the exhaust cycle? Your carb could be adjusted wrong but I would think the starter fluid would start it for a short time. The weber part number is stamped on the side of the carb near the bottom. Could be like 32 DGEV or something like that.
Yep the points have got to open and close, if they are not, or even just slightly opening you will not get spark, or any for that matter. The points have got to close, completing the circuit, then when they open this allows the primary and secondary windings in the coil to collapse and you get the high voltage from the coil through the rotor to the corrosponding spark plug and when mixed with fuel and air....well you get the picture.