1970 cj5 performance help - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
PrivateMariano
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1970 cj5 performance help

Hi, I just bought my first jeep a 70 cj5 and I'm looking to
Start off with a little performance upgrade. I'd like some help figuring out what to do, whats the best price to performance upgrade. Cold air intake? Exhaust? Supercharge???? Thanks for your help

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-17-2011, 10:09 PM
tacjeep99
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What engine, transmission, gear ratios and tire size do you have?
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-18-2011, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
PrivateMariano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacjeep99 View Post
What engine, transmission, gear ratios and tire size do you have?
I have the dauntless 4.0 inline 6 the transmission in the t-15, not sure of gear ratios, but I have 31" tires
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-18-2011, 04:57 PM
SleeperCJ
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Mopar multi port injection kit. It's spendy and I am not sure it the engine being that old makes a difference, but it adds power and a lot of reliability.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-18-2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrivateMariano View Post
Hi, I just bought my first jeep a 70 cj5 and I'm looking to
Start off with a little performance upgrade. I'd like some help figuring out what to do, whats the best price to performance upgrade. Cold air intake? Exhaust? Supercharge???? Thanks for your help
First off, welcome to the forum.

Secondly, find out what the axle gear ratios are so someone can make an informed comment.

Third,
Get yourself a COMPREHENSIVE FIRST AID KIT,
And don't forget a bottle of eye wash with an eye cup when you get your first aid kit,

Fourth,
A 5 pound fire extinguisher,

Fifth,
Some good safety glasses with side and top protection.

You are going to get cuts, scrapes, burns, crap in your eyes and accidents happen on the trail and when you are working.

Sixth,
Get yourself some JACK STANDS and learn to use them!
Virtually ALL serious injuries I know about are from falling vehicles and 'Pinched' body parts.

DO NOT put big tires on until you know a little more about your drive train and gear ratios.

------------------

What costs you NOTHING is to fill in your bio so we know what year, model, ect. vehicle you are driving/working on.

------------------

Now, on to 'Improvements',

If you wheel very hard, then a good roll cage tied to the frame is ALWAYS money will spent.

These things ALL had crappy ignitions.
Improving ignition is in all cases a 'Good' thing.
Breaker points distributors are worthless, especially when they are already 41 years old!

These things ALL had weak front ends (Dana 30 or smaller), so switching over to a (narrowed) D-44 is ALWAYS a good thing if you have the money.

I'd hold off on the fuel injection until you decide this is EXACTLY the engine you want.
I LOVE fuel injection, and it's pretty much mandatory for 'Rock Crawlers' since carbs just don't like to work off camber,
But you might want to rethink the engine before you shell out for fuel injection if you plan to do anything like rock crawling.

REMEMBER,
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-18-2011, 10:54 PM
tacjeep99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrivateMariano View Post
I have the dauntless 4.0 inline 6 the transmission in the t-15, not sure of gear ratios, but I have 31" tires
Are you sure you don't have a Dauntless V6? A 4.0 I6 has never been called a Dauntless. Additionally, if you have 70 CJ-5, a straight six is a tough fit considering your 70 CJ-5 has a wheel base 3" shorter than the 72-83 CJ-5s that AMC put inline 258 and 233 sixes in. CJ-5 wheelbases were lengthened 3" when AMC took over Kaiser in order to accommodate the length difference between the Buick (Dauntless) 225 V6 and the AMC 232 and 258 inline sixes which are the basis for the 4.0 I6 found in newer model jeeps.

Not saying you are mistaken, but the model year and engine and engine names are not adding up. I suppose a 4.0 I6 could be made to fit.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-19-2011, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
PrivateMariano
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I gotta check on the gear ratios and axle size. I have the v6 not the i6
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-19-2011, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
PrivateMariano
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The rear has a Dana 44
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-19-2011, 09:59 PM
tacjeep99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrivateMariano View Post
I gotta check on the gear ratios and axle size. I have the v6 not the i6
Ok, you probably have the Buick 225 V6 which came factory in 1970. It is good engine, some problem areas are the gear on the end of the distributor shaft wearing out. It is made of nylon, and is known to strip out on occasion, some company used to sell a brass replacement gear, that was an upgrade. Occasionally I have heard about cooling problems with the V6, but nothing major.

There are performance parts that can be purchased for it. One company that used to offer performance upgrades is Kenne-Bell. Might have the spelling wrong, don't even know if they are still in business. You can get things like headers, carburetors, gear sets, etc. for your Jeep.

I had a 69 CJ-5, with a V6, and in a moment of weakness, I sold it to buy the Jeep I have now. If I had it to do over, I would have kept it.
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-22-2011, 09:27 AM
jeepdaddy2000
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Simple improvements:
HEI ignition upgrade. Get one for a 76 Buick Apollo with the 231 ODDFIRE. You may have to grind the intake a touch to get it to drop in, but it is the best bang for the buck out there. E bay also offers rebuilt units.
The stock exhaust gives very good low end power and throttle response, however, splitting it or going to a set of headers will really wake it up in the mid range and above. You have to be careful though. If your running the stock Ross steering, outside the frame headers are about the only thing that will fit easily.
4BBL manifolds are still available and will do wonders for power.
An RV grind cam will give improved fuel economy and a boost to power off idle well into the upper mid range.
When combined, these improvements will really wake the engine up with a minimal loss of economy and drivability.
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-22-2011, 11:15 AM
cdmiller2
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how about a good tune up before modifying anything? cap, rotor plugs wires, change the oil in the motor axles tranny and axles.
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-22-2011, 11:32 AM
white_2003
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^^x2 and dont forget to use good oil too.

'12 JK, 3.6/NSG370/NV241/D30/D44, 2" Lift, 32" KM2's, 4.10's
'01 WJ, 4.7/45RFE/NV247/D30/D44A, 2" Lift, 32" KM2's, 3.73's
'72 CJ5, AMC 304/T-15/D20/D30/D44 2" Lift, 31" KM2's, 4.11's
'48 CJ2a currently under construction. (Wedding present)
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-22-2011, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmiller2 View Post
how about a good tune up before modifying anything? cap, rotor plugs wires, change the oil in the motor axles tranny and axles.
I wouldn't do this if your going to the HEI, as the rotor, cap, wires, plug gap and timing will be different than stock.
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-28-2011, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
PrivateMariano
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So I popped open the hood and took a video, asking some qureestions please help.
That's the link to the video.
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-29-2011, 05:59 AM
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The red knob is for the stock hazzards. The original turn signal regulator has been replaced with an aftermarket unit, probably picked up at a truck stop.
There should be a cable for the choke on the dash. The second cable seems to be an attempt at a hand throttle set up. If memory serves, the cable for the cabin air (the flap you were looking at) should be down on the heater control mounted under the dash between the driver and passenger. I couldn't see it there, but the angle on the vid was bad. You were right about the fresh air intake. There should be a tube running from the heater box to the grill. You can run without it, but you will be smelling the engine compartment the way it is, and that could be an issue if you have an exhaust leak.
The hole in the side of the body was for the stock saddle tank. It was a 10 gallon fuel tank located under the drivers seat. They were prone to rot and as a result, would fill the cabin with that stinky gas smell. A common upgrade is to install a rear tank out of a 72 and later either as a replacement or to augment the existing system.
The windshield washer is a manual pump on the dash that sends fluid from the bag up to the nozzle mounted on the body between the hood and the windshield.
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