05 3.7 wk QT1,2.25 Old Man EMU,255/75/17 GY silent armors,call of duty black moabs,Spidertrax
1.5,Pinch weld & rear fender mod,hypertech max energy.1992 jeep xj larado 4.0,4.5 rought country lift, coustome built rear bumper with tire swing soon to be on 33s
Actually I would buy the oracal for the charge bar. The red dot I use does not project, its basically a cheap open sight that I never take my eyes off the target, just lift the rifle with both eyes fallowing the target and a dot appears on it.....squeeze.
94 jz, bruiser, la, cage,5.3 ls, 36 swampers 98 jz, the mutt, 3.5 iro, 33 swampers, avalanche conversion, 02 north face avalanche blacked out work truck, 06 rhino R1 engine, 4x4, Leeroy's custom paint, 04 escalade wifes truck 22s, 03 duramax 18s, completely blacked out, efilive by nick, wicked wicked truck, 39 chop chevy rod, aluminum 5.3 ls, 08 apex, 310hp mcx turbo, holz 162, completely black, CCM built.
To me the main things to look at in an ar are piston( new technology, great, but more expensive ), or gas operated ( good technology, but you need to clean it more ). After that I look at tightness of the rifle. Hold it to your side by the grip and shake it. My brother had a pretty used bushmaster that was loose as a goose. That bushmaster could be field stripped in seconds, while my dpms required tools too push the tight pin out. Even with that I prefer a tight rifle.
The Sig is actually spring-loaded between the upper and the lower to keep it from rattling and it's the ONLY AR that you'll find with that feature. It keeps pressure between the two halves of the rifle without the halves actually fitting ridiculously tightly together, so it makes it so you don't need tools to take it down. For me, all I use to field strip it is a bullet, just to get the rear take down pin started, then need no other tools past that.
Yes, digging into it, I plan to study this out till January then make a decision. great site so far.
That's good, there's a lot of crap out there and the more you know, the easier it is to shift through the crap.
As an FYI, 'tightness' doesn't matter one bit in the ARM4 family. Neither does 'fit and finish'. These aren't 1911s. My priciest and most accurate rifle does not have tight upper/lower receiver fits and the stock isn't that tight on the receiver extension. It shoots 0.5MOA at 100 yards with MK262 ammunition. Pretty damn good for a semi-auto.
I'd worry about getting a quality foundation, keeping in mind:
1. the barrel - barrel steel, twist rate, gas port dimension, chamber, etc. all need to be in spec as they have a direct relationship to the function, reliability, and longevity of your carbine. Brands I trust are Colt, Daniel Defense, Bravo Company, Lewis Machine Tool, Centurion, Noveske, Knights Armament, and recently Palmetto State Armory has been decent.
2. the bolt/carrier - while you can swap factory units out for better ones, these also have a direct relationship to the reliability of your carbine. Brands I trust, and have thousands of rounds through, are Bravo Company, Daniel Defense, and Lewis Machine Tool.
Rails, lights, optics, triggers, stocks, etc. can all be changed later and you'll probably go through multiple iterations until you are happy. But you can rest easy if you know that your foundation (barrel, bolt) is a good one.
The MK12 I mentioned
The target...before someone calls me out
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