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Old 12-23-2008, 06:35 PM   #46
heyitsme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
Second............


Where's that stick at....wait, what???




I hate to say it but member weenieeestew did a good job on that paint work.
Here it is:

I'm sure he would let you borrow it for a minute.

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Old 12-23-2008, 06:56 PM   #47
Beefstew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ursandal View Post
What the heck man, is that a 6" body lift or what. Remove that immediately, it looks STEWPID!
Looks good, but you really should have taped off the door handles.
beefsteW has gone and counted the hockey pucks supporting his truck....


He would like to inform the general public that yes it appears to be a 6 inch body lift....

lol
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:42 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinsburgjeep View Post
member beefstew needs to drop the latent worship of former member WenieD . . . he wasn't funny and thus neither are you
i agree with this
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:22 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beefstew View Post
not to mention member beefsteW is a college kid who spends what ever money he has on beer,
I got as far as this point and figured this explains why said member ROLLED on the paint job.
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:38 AM   #50
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Dude loose the body lift. They bring the suck.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:17 AM   #51
XJ96PA
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I tried to compile a list of materials and instructions. Let me know if this is correct.

-Rustoleum protective enamel
-Mineral Spirits
-High density foam rollers (4")
-Foam brushes
-Sandpaper (80,100,200,400,600,800,1000-1500)
-Painter's tape
-Buffer & wax/polishing compound (what kind?)
__________________________________________

-Prep Surface (80,100,200,400 grit)
-Remove pieces & tape off
-Clean surface of dust & oil
-Mix paint with mineral spirits - a little thicker than water
-Roll on 2 coats (How long drying time in between?)
-(Drying time after 2 coats) overnight?
-Wet sand
-Repeat roll-on & wet sand (600, 800, 1000, 1500 respectively)
-buff & polish
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:36 AM   #52
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BeefStew needs to add some strips. I suggest a 2" brush and a steady hand.
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:34 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdavetj View Post
BeefStew needs to add some strips.
I suggest a 2" brush and a steady hand.
Strips of bacon?
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:38 AM   #54
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^ That would be the awesomeness I speak of.
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Alright you Primitive Screwheads, listen up! You see this? This... is my boomstick! The twelve-gauge double-barreled Remington. S-Mart's top of the line. You can find this in the sporting goods department. That's right, this sweet baby was made in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Retails for about a hundred and nine, ninety five. It's got a walnut stock, cobalt blue steel, and a hair trigger. That's right. Shop smart. Shop S-Mart. You got that?
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Old 12-24-2008, 10:06 AM   #55
Beefstew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
I got as far as this point and figured this explains why said member ROLLED on the paint job.
Said member wants to mention that it came out very well, even for a roll on job..... I think i would prefer this over other methods for the sheer reason of getting scratches. Such ease of repair!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by That1guy View Post
Dude loose the body lift. They bring the suck.
Yes, member beefsteW agrees.... come spring he shall....
Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ96PA View Post
I tried to compile a list of materials and instructions. Let me know if this is correct.

-Rustoleum protective enamel
-Mineral Spirits
-High density foam rollers (4")
-Foam brushes
-Sandpaper (80,100,200,400,600,800,1000-1500)
-Painter's tape
-Buffer & wax/polishing compound (what kind?)
__________________________________________

-Prep Surface (80,100,200,400 grit)
-Remove pieces & tape off
-Clean surface of dust & oil
-Mix paint with mineral spirits - a little thicker than water
-Roll on 2 coats (How long drying time in between?)
-(Drying time after 2 coats) overnight?
-Wet sand
-Repeat roll-on & wet sand (600, 800, 1000, 1500 respectively)
-buff & polish
Basically beefsteW did just that... he removed everything first then sanded... then taped... some say to wash before vehicle before sanding since oil and dirt and other nasties can get sanded into the surface.... unnecessary since the mineral spirits bath is strong enough to penetrate and remove any unwanted nasties.... member beefsteW also wants to stress the importance of prepping properly... he feels that it makes quite the difference... once shiny and orange every imperfection that wasnt fixed or fixed nicely stands out!!! go slow and make everything smooth!!! say, 80 grit and then followed by 150 or so... then if you feel necessary 200 plus..... beefsteW stopped at 80 on most of Franky since he was so ticklish!

When actually rolling on the paint, its kinda tuff and frustrating at first... after a coat or two you get the hang of it.... you want the paint thin enough that it self levels. But you dont want it so thin that you get lots of runs, which suck sanding out later... depending on the temperature and humidity it will determine how thin you need to thin the paint... you kinda have to just experiment a bit... beefsteW jumped right into and got it pretty close the first few times..... when rolling you need to cover an area with the paint, then gently roll your roller over everything using hardly any pressure... this will level it all and remove roller strokes... after abotu 30 seconds you can look at the painted surface at an angle and its all smooth and leaves no trace of being rolled on...

BeefsteW would say that about 4 plus hours is adequate time before applying another coat after coat... also, do not rush it as he did... he wound up putting a new coat on and the mineral spirits in the new coat thinned the undried first coat and it got tacky again and was a pain in beefsteW's toosh....

He would allow more than 4 hours, probly 7 or 8 for the coat to dry before wet sanding....
Wetsand very gently only removing any raised areas.... you can feel the difference after a few strokes of wetsanding... its nice...


other than that... just take your time and it will come out nice... if you screw up on a part, just sand it off and re do.... its a nice first timer project since its soo forgiving....

member beefsteW used turtle wax polishing compound.... from what he has read, rubbing compound is to abrasive... and could potentially remove too much paint.....


Good luck and post pictures!!!!







Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdavetj View Post
BeefStew needs to add some strips. I suggest a 2" brush and a steady hand.

Black Racing Stripes will come soon.....
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Old 12-24-2008, 10:28 AM   #56
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I would just like to point out that Frankenstein was NOT the name of the monster, but the scientist who created it.
So, unless you want to name your truck after a mad scientist, your truck's name should really be "Frankenstein's Truck," or "Truck of Frankenstein."

Hi, my name is Killjoy and I approve this message.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:04 PM   #57
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I think it looks pretty good. But why is Beefstew writing in the third person?
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:22 PM   #58
WhtJeep
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why did i feel like I was reading one of thos scam letters the entire time i read his posts?
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:48 PM   #59
That1guy
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There was an old member on here that posted like this and got banned for something. So beef is bringing back the spirit.
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Last edited by That1guy; 12-24-2008 at 01:59 PM..
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:58 PM   #60
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I've never had sprit?
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