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post #31 of 35 Old 01-21-2010, 06:08 PM
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I have no issues with the passive chipset cooling in my build, none get above 50c. I have a Zalman 9700 cpu cooler in a centurion 5 case. specs

PSU- corsair tx750
Case- cooler master centurion 5
mobo- Gigabyte ga-ma69g-s3h
cpu- athlon x2 5000+ oc to 3ghz
ram- 3gb of ddr2 667
graphics card- sapphire hd4870
cpu cooler- zalman 9700

that's about it and my cpu is sitting at 28c right now listening to music and browsing the web.

95 xj bone stock for now
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post #32 of 35 Old 01-21-2010, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
So distilled water and PT nuke would be a a good combination. I have heard horror stories if you will on using dye's and the type of clogging they can do to blocks. for a CPU only system would you say a single bay resevior would be fine? the resevior not only gets rid of bubbles but also adds to the cooling systems over all capacity making it in general run cooler right?
I used a Primochill dye bomb once, and it separated out of the water within a week, leaving pale blue water and a whole bunch of blue sticky crap in my blocks. I'm using Feser View dyes now, with no problems for about 6 months so far. I still kick myself for not just using colored tubing though. The dyes have stained everything acrylic in my loops, and it takes some intense scrubbing with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to remove it.

There are many reservoir options. Just go with whatever works in your case the best. The Swiftech Microres v2's are very popular, as are XSPC MCP350/355 pump top/res combos. Just make sure it is mounted higher than your pump. I used to use EK Multioption reservoirs in my last build because they are big and pretty. I now use EK spin reserviors because they are also big and pretty. It's a matter of preference. I did a bench test run once using T-lines before the pumps. They are a pain in the *** to bleed. Constantly turning the power on and off until everything is filled. They do work are are like $2 and take up very little space.

The pump should ideally be the lowest point in your loop, and if you are using T-lines, they should be right behind the pump inlet. If you are using a reservoir, it should be the highest point, feeding directly into the pump. You can bend these rules and still make it work though.

Misconception on the more fluid part. More fluid will take longer to heat up, and also longer to cool down. Really, it makes no impact. Liquid cooling is so efficient at removing heat that water temperatures will only increase 2 or 3*C under high load with an efficient setup. Faster moving fluid will, however, gain you lower temperatures. A D5 or MCP355 are more than adequate at pumping fluid through 2 or 3 blocks. I use very high restriction EK Supreme blocks on the CPU and video cards, so I opted to go with two loops instead of using two pumps in series. Keeps video card heat dump off my CPU, which is what I'm really concerned about.

Don't go fall for the "my room will be cooler" thing either. No, actually, it will be warmer because you just added a 25W pump to the computer. WC's purpose is to remove heat from the case more efficiently than air cooling can. And your radiator(s) are still air cooled. Except they have more surface area to dissipate heat and generally dump it outside the case.

also a question on the low conducting fluid... is that a gimmick, or if you have a leak will it actually not cause any/much damage?
Gimmick. Distilled water is also non-conductive. Once they touch dust or particles on the board, they instantly become conductive.

I once had a crack in my NB block on my old Core 2 E8400 rig (I know what you are thinking, but the memory controller on that generation was still under the northbridge, and I was pumping some serious voltage through it, so I was concerned. Voltage regulators for the CPU were also blocked). Was dumping gratuitous amounts of dyed water on my 4850s. I was playing Dead Space at the time and happened to look inside the case and **** myself. I would have never known there was water on the video cards had I not looked. Shut it down, cleaned off the dye with alcohol, let it all dry for 24 hours, epoxied the block, worked fine. Like I said, electronics are more durable than you give them credit for. Voltages are so low that it's hard to fry anything. It does happen, don't get me wrong.

That being said, acrylic blocks are pretty, but they are fragile. Very easy to over tighten fittings (Only hand tight!!! So that the o-ring under the fitting is slightly sandwiched. And use teflon tape). I doubt I will ever buy an acrylic block again. Most blocks are offered in either acrylic or acetal materials. Acetal is softer and will not crack.
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post #33 of 35 Old 01-22-2010, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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I am going to keep picking your brain....

What are your thoughts about using a Peltier along with the water cooling?

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post #34 of 35 Old 01-22-2010, 02:43 PM
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I've been looking into sub-ambient cooling for a while but I'm not sure if I'll go TEC, waterchiller, evaporative cooling, or phase change first.

TECs are another science all in themselves and I'm not all that knowledgeable about them, but I know the basics. Lots of math involved and you have to know exactly how much heat whatever you are trying to cool is putting off. The more power you put into the peltier, the less efficient it becomes. These 437W peltiers are what people are using right now for the last couple of generations of processors, and it's starting to get to the point where the heat output by the peltier negates its cooling effect because modern overclocked CPUs put off upwards of 175W. A decent water cooling system will be able to remove anywhere between 500 and 1500W depending on radiator size and airflow.

I do know that waterchillers are waaay more efficient at cooling down your parts than a direct contact TEC. Basically, a copper chamber is machined and TECs are applied to the outside of it. A second water cooling loop is used to cool the TECs. The chamber replaces the radiator in loop that flows through the computer.

Evaporative cooling is essentially upsizing your reservior greatly and leaving the top off. Bong coolers are easy to make, look it up. They are massive and ugly though. Goods points are that it's cheap, bad points is that your loop will gather dust in the water without a filter, humidity in the room increases slightly, and you will never see sub-zero temps.

Phase change is the ultimate solution, but you will pay for it. The really dedicated hobbyists will build their own from old fridges and air conditioning units. A gas (R-12, R-22, etc, depending on what the compressor is designed to run on) is compressed, cooled down by copper coils, squeezed into a capillary tube, meets the cooling block where it expands and boils, evaporating and taking massive amounts of heat with it, then is returned to the compressor. 1/2 to 3/4HP compressors are required, drawing about 400-600W. The compressors are not designed to run 24/7, so certain brands are recommended and the computer shouldn't be on for 12+ hours a day. But man, I would love to see my processor fully loaded at 5GHz+ at -120*C.

Insulation is a must with any of these options. Anytime you have a material that is cooler than the ambient air around it, you'll see condensation, which is bad. Dielectric grease is used to fill the socket and neoprene blocks are cut for around the socket. Not much to it it looks like.

Performance air cooling will help you reach a stable everyday overclock and increase the life of your processor, water cooling is for geeks who want to run unnecessary overclocks for the fun of it or want a quieter computer, and sub-ambient cooling is just for bragging rights.

Imagine your electricity bill in the summer running a 700W load on the computer while gaming, 600W just for cooling, and your air conditioning also running while additionally removing 1300W that the computer is putting into the air. Yeah, I get weak knees.
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post #35 of 35 Old 01-23-2010, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by NewdRiver View Post
Imagine your electricity bill in the summer running a 700W load on the computer while gaming, 600W just for cooling, and your air conditioning also running while additionally removing 1300W that the computer is putting into the air. Yeah, I get weak knees.
Jebus, at that point, I'd start thinking about exhaust vents directly out of the house.

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