So I have done quite a bit of looking at water cooling and have a few questions...I should sign up for those forums and ask on there.... O well
You mentioned about mixing the metals and that’s why Koolance Alum radiators and copper blocks have issues. I understand the two metals reacting with each other but there are a large range of "coolants" that prevent this from occurring. Does the addition of the coolant provide less heat exchange through the copper plates or the alum heat exchanger?
The only coolant being used in a loop should be distilled water with possibly a dye and a drop or two of algicide. I don't feel like pulling up charts, but trust me that the entire 'coolant' market is a rip off. All of them have a lower heat capacity than distilled water yet cost about 50x than plain old water. Anything alcohol-based will dry and crack tubing and melt acrylic. Ethylene-glycol based additives like antifreeze can be used safely and reduce mixed-metals corrosion, but if there is any water mixed with it, it won't prevent it. Antifreeze is typically only used in water chiller and TEC setups where water would freeze though. The best, and highest quality, parts are never made of aluminum. Avoid it like the plague.
Also many fittings look to be coated or not copper. When picking the fittings should I stay away from one type of metal? Or should I solve that by just using plastic fittings?
99% of fittings are nickel-plated brass. You can use either barbs or compression fittings. CF's are very expensive, otherwise I would use them. I've tried several different brands of barbs and by far the best are Bitspower/Danger Den 1/2" ID Fat Boys. They will easily hold 1/2" ID tubing without a clamp, but it is always recommended to use clamps. I use plastic click clamps, but zip ties, metal hose clamps, and screw-drive clamps are also acceptable. Your loop should be using all 1/2" fittings by the way. 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing is the most common, followed by 7/16" ID 5/8" OD Masterkleer tubing (which may be used on most 1/2" barbs without clamps due to the very tight fit). You can heat the tubing up for a couple seconds in boiling water and slide it onto the barb if you find it difficult. Getting 7/16" tubing over standard D5 pump barbs is nearly impossible without doing this. The standard threading size for fittings is G1/4" in case you were wondering.
Also it looks like there are a few anti-biological out there one being PT Nuke and there seams to be quite a bit of "arguing" over its use. What is the take on here?
PT nuke is always recommend. It is copper sulfate, and is only sold by Petra's Tech Shop. Petra is a cool guy (he's on the forums a lot), and I would use it, but I don't feel like shelling out $10 after shipping for it. Silver will do the same job, so you could put a silver coin in your reservoir. Personally, I don't use any algaecide, never had any growth problems, although I've always used dye. I would recommend not using dye BTW. It makes a horrible mess if you spill it, and stains your tubing. Just use colored tubing. Straight distilled water and PT nuke would be my preferred setup.
And lastly this is not a water cooling question but more of another heat question. I got a set of Crosser memory 4 x 2G of DDR3 that comes with the fan module to mount on top and all that jazz. I got the board, memory, and Arctic Cooler 7 and was laying things out and it looks like I will not be able to run the fan for the memory and the CPU cooler at the same time due to the amount to real-estate both take up. Will the memory get that hot that there will be a need for the fans? DDR3 is lower voltage 1.65v so that should have them run cooler in general then DDR2 right?
RAM running at standard voltages and speeds will generate a negligible amount of heat. Even running at 2000MHz, a simple heatspreader on the chips and at least some airflow over the DIMMs is more than enough. Like the NB and SB, ram is not something you need to be concerned about. They are nowhere near as heat sensitive as a processor and can operate in a huge temperature range (albeit not too cold). Once a modern processor hits about 100*C, the insulation material over the die will begin to evaporate. The ran fan is only for show, I'm sorry to say.
Also with the fan cooler off the memory it looks like the CPU cooler will still lightly press against the first memory module. Should I have some sort of very thin rubber to isolate the CPU cooler from the memory module (would put more horizontal pressure on the memory module…)? The AC7 does mount the fan to the cooler by way of rubber grommets so the fan is isolated from the fixed cooler.
If it's touching only slightly, leave it. Electronics are much more robust than you give them credit for.
I am going to invest in that water cooling kit some time down the road and will be able to use the memory fans eventually...(moving at the end of February and need all the left over pennies that I did not spend for move in costs).
Thanks for the help and sorry for the essay of a post.
I always enjoy pointing someone down the right path in the hobby. It's easy to waste a lot of money because the WC market is 90% flash and gimmick.