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Unread 01-16-2010, 06:45 PM   #16
Magus2727
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Do those Enermax Enlobal fans have any lock in? i would be worried that the fan blade might just fly off....

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1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
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Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Unread 01-16-2010, 07:06 PM   #17
Magus2727
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SO If I got one of these Fans...

Enermax "Cluster" -Twister Bearing Silent White PWM Fan w/ Bright White LED's - Sleeved Products Model: UC-CL12 [UC-CL12] : Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come

^^thats a 4 wire MB controlled fan right the images look like it has two styles of providing power?

And the Thermalright Venomous-X with the AMD through bolt kit I should be set?

Edit: I don't think i will be doing any kind of over clocking on the unit yet, I want to break things in and get use to the new system. I am going from a fairly "old"" system (older 949 socket, DDR 4G's, PCIe 1.0 256MDDR2 Video, Single core 2.4GHz) so with the new system until I start getting into things I don't think I will need to over clock any thing for a while... I am not that into gaming (ignore that if you think its Taboo) I do use Adobe products quite a bit with Video and Images along with occasional game use, I am looking at something that will blow the socks of me when I first start it up and will be a "fast" computer for a long time yet.

Edit2: I know you don't like ThermalTake but this is an impressive case...
\http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26987
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NAXJA Member #2619

1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.

Last edited by Magus2727; 01-16-2010 at 07:18 PM..
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Unread 01-16-2010, 09:49 PM   #18
NewdRiver_
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No, it's not.

This is.
MDPC 031 | Edelweiss by Pius Giger aka Lessdegrees
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Unread 01-16-2010, 10:20 PM   #19
Magus2727
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Well when compared to that....

That is quite impressive... that is the MB that I am replacing. I have the Abit Fatality AN8-SLI right now.... I like the board, they just don't have much for AMD any more it seams.
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NAXJA Member #2619

1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:02 PM   #20
Chris_Walker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
Do those Enermax Enlobal fans have any lock in? i would be worried that the fan blade might just fly off....
The blades won't come off. You actually need to pull them a little harder than you'd expect to detach them. I've been using Panasonic Panaflo fans for years, because of their quietness and reliability, then I tried the Enlobal fans... and you literally can't hear them at all...

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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:08 PM   #21
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And before anyone starts bashing Thermaltake... despite all the garbage they sell... they do have the most beautiful computer case ever... but that's because it was designed by BMW... ant it's $800

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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:34 PM   #22
NewdRiver_
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I've been drinking and feel like showing off my rig. Deal with it. This forum is too slow between 12am and 8am. Computer pr0n.







I believe I have the authority to bash Thermaltake all I like.
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:39 PM   #23
Chris_Walker
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Nice setup, but is that CCFL backlight bleeding I see in your screens?

j/k
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Unread 01-16-2010, 11:45 PM   #24
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Yes. The camera picks it up more than one's eye would actually notice it. I love my monitors. Gateway FHD2400s.
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Unread 01-17-2010, 09:33 AM   #25
Magus2727
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What is a good company to get a liquid cooling system from now a days... I was looking into it about 5 years ago when I built my previous system. I have looked at a fair number of companies but they all have about equal ratings/user feedback. I remember looking Koolance (was one of the only companies it seamed like that had a kit that was offered to the public). Is it better to go with a kit from a company that makes one? or fit a bunch of individual parts together (to make a hodge podge of companies in the system)?

I am looking at this (Koolance INX-720BK-V2 Cooling System, Black V2 [10mm, 3/8" ID] Products Model: INX-720BK-V2 [INX-720BK-V2] : Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come) it would fit my case if i so choose to cut into my case.

About how many watts should I think about dissipating (Koolance has a recommendation on cooling capacity for power dissipation)?

This has been really informative.... I think I am going to be swapping all my fans for the Enermax.....
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NAXJA Member #2619

1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Unread 01-17-2010, 04:15 PM   #26
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The Corsair H50 will be approximately equivalent to a high end air cooler. Everything from Koolance and CoolIt is garbage. That system you linked to uses an aluminum radiator. Mix that with anything copper in your loop and the radiator will get eaten away due to galvanic corrosion. Plus it has an anemic pump, only 1/4" tubing, and terrible fans. And you have to cut your case to make it work.

There are options besides making your own.

This is the best kit available for beginners. Swiftech radiators are the best performance-to-price you can buy. Has a D5 pump which is excellent. The latest Swiftech block.

Many, many, many people buy that kit to get started. I can't recommend anything else until you've read a lot here and here. All you need to add to that kit is distilled water. Read here too.

The sky is the limit. I started the hobby after I bought a JF member's used parts. Old Black Ice radiator, D5 pump. Now I run XSPC RX rads, DDC355 pumps w/XSPC tops, EK Spin reservoirs, and EK blocks.
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Unread 01-17-2010, 06:03 PM   #27
Magus2727
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Thanks for the tips... I will look into that for sure!
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NAXJA Member #2619

1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 12:11 PM   #28
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So I have done quite a bit of looking at water cooling and have a few questions...I should sign up for those forums and ask on there.... O well

You mentioned about mixing the metals and that’s why Koolance Alum radiators and copper blocks have issues. I understand the two metals reacting with each other but there are a large range of "coolants" that prevent this from occurring. Does the addition of the coolant provide less heat exchange through the copper plates or the alum heat exchanger? Also many fittings look to be coated or not copper. When picking the fittings should I stay away from one type of metal? Or should I solve that by just using plastic fittings?

Also it looks like there are a few anti-biological out there one being PT Nuke and there seams to be quite a bit of "arguing" over its use. What is the take on here?

And lastly this is not a water cooling question but more of another heat question. I got a set of Crosser memory 4 x 2G of DDR3 that comes with the fan module to mount on top and all that jazz. I got the board, memory, and Arctic Cooler 7 and was laying things out and it looks like I will not be able to run the fan for the memory and the CPU cooler at the same time due to the amount to real-estate both take up. Will the memory get that hot that there will be a need for the fans? DDR3 is lower voltage 1.65v so that should have them run cooler in general then DDR2 right?

Also with the fan cooler off the memory it looks like the CPU cooler will still lightly press against the first memory module. Should I have some sort of very thin rubber to isolate the CPU cooler from the memory module (would put more horizontal pressure on the memory module…)? The AC7 does mount the fan to the cooler by way of rubber grommets so the fan is isolated from the fixed cooler.

I am going to invest in that water cooling kit some time down the road and will be able to use the memory fans eventually...(moving at the end of February and need all the left over pennies that I did not spend for move in costs).

Thanks for the help and sorry for the essay of a post.
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NAXJA Member #2619

1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 02:21 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magus2727 View Post
So I have done quite a bit of looking at water cooling and have a few questions...I should sign up for those forums and ask on there.... O well

You mentioned about mixing the metals and that’s why Koolance Alum radiators and copper blocks have issues. I understand the two metals reacting with each other but there are a large range of "coolants" that prevent this from occurring. Does the addition of the coolant provide less heat exchange through the copper plates or the alum heat exchanger?

The only coolant being used in a loop should be distilled water with possibly a dye and a drop or two of algicide. I don't feel like pulling up charts, but trust me that the entire 'coolant' market is a rip off. All of them have a lower heat capacity than distilled water yet cost about 50x than plain old water. Anything alcohol-based will dry and crack tubing and melt acrylic. Ethylene-glycol based additives like antifreeze can be used safely and reduce mixed-metals corrosion, but if there is any water mixed with it, it won't prevent it. Antifreeze is typically only used in water chiller and TEC setups where water would freeze though. The best, and highest quality, parts are never made of aluminum. Avoid it like the plague.

Quote:
Also many fittings look to be coated or not copper. When picking the fittings should I stay away from one type of metal? Or should I solve that by just using plastic fittings?
99% of fittings are nickel-plated brass. You can use either barbs or compression fittings. CF's are very expensive, otherwise I would use them. I've tried several different brands of barbs and by far the best are Bitspower/Danger Den 1/2" ID Fat Boys. They will easily hold 1/2" ID tubing without a clamp, but it is always recommended to use clamps. I use plastic click clamps, but zip ties, metal hose clamps, and screw-drive clamps are also acceptable. Your loop should be using all 1/2" fittings by the way. 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing is the most common, followed by 7/16" ID 5/8" OD Masterkleer tubing (which may be used on most 1/2" barbs without clamps due to the very tight fit). You can heat the tubing up for a couple seconds in boiling water and slide it onto the barb if you find it difficult. Getting 7/16" tubing over standard D5 pump barbs is nearly impossible without doing this. The standard threading size for fittings is G1/4" in case you were wondering.

Quote:
Also it looks like there are a few anti-biological out there one being PT Nuke and there seams to be quite a bit of "arguing" over its use. What is the take on here?
PT nuke is always recommend. It is copper sulfate, and is only sold by Petra's Tech Shop. Petra is a cool guy (he's on the forums a lot), and I would use it, but I don't feel like shelling out $10 after shipping for it. Silver will do the same job, so you could put a silver coin in your reservoir. Personally, I don't use any algaecide, never had any growth problems, although I've always used dye. I would recommend not using dye BTW. It makes a horrible mess if you spill it, and stains your tubing. Just use colored tubing. Straight distilled water and PT nuke would be my preferred setup.

Quote:
And lastly this is not a water cooling question but more of another heat question. I got a set of Crosser memory 4 x 2G of DDR3 that comes with the fan module to mount on top and all that jazz. I got the board, memory, and Arctic Cooler 7 and was laying things out and it looks like I will not be able to run the fan for the memory and the CPU cooler at the same time due to the amount to real-estate both take up. Will the memory get that hot that there will be a need for the fans? DDR3 is lower voltage 1.65v so that should have them run cooler in general then DDR2 right?
RAM running at standard voltages and speeds will generate a negligible amount of heat. Even running at 2000MHz, a simple heatspreader on the chips and at least some airflow over the DIMMs is more than enough. Like the NB and SB, ram is not something you need to be concerned about. They are nowhere near as heat sensitive as a processor and can operate in a huge temperature range (albeit not too cold). Once a modern processor hits about 100*C, the insulation material over the die will begin to evaporate. The ran fan is only for show, I'm sorry to say.

Quote:
Also with the fan cooler off the memory it looks like the CPU cooler will still lightly press against the first memory module. Should I have some sort of very thin rubber to isolate the CPU cooler from the memory module (would put more horizontal pressure on the memory module…)? The AC7 does mount the fan to the cooler by way of rubber grommets so the fan is isolated from the fixed cooler.
If it's touching only slightly, leave it. Electronics are much more robust than you give them credit for.

Quote:
I am going to invest in that water cooling kit some time down the road and will be able to use the memory fans eventually...(moving at the end of February and need all the left over pennies that I did not spend for move in costs).

Thanks for the help and sorry for the essay of a post.
I always enjoy pointing someone down the right path in the hobby. It's easy to waste a lot of money because the WC market is 90% flash and gimmick.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 04:42 PM   #30
Magus2727
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Thanks for the info! I figured the fan and memory would be ok, just wanted to make sure.

So distilled water and PT nuke would be a a good combination. I have heard horror stories if you will on using dye's and the type of clogging they can do to blocks. for a CPU only system would you say a single bay resevior would be fine? the resevior not only gets rid of bubbles but also adds to the cooling systems over all capacity making it in general run cooler right?

also a question on the low conducting fluid... is that a gimmick, or if you have a leak will it actually not cause any/much damage?
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NAXJA Member #2619

1995 Jeep Sport Cherokee 4x4 with an Auto and 4.0L
B&M Transmission Cooler and Autometer Tranny Temp Gauge, Ruff Stuff Diff Cover on D30.
Taraflex 1.5" BB (rear shackle only), HD Quadratec leaf springs, RE 3.5" front springs, OME Long shocks, JKS Adjustable Track Bar from K.O.R.
Daystar Control Arm Bushings, Bushwhacker Flairs, Rhino lining along bottom trim, AGR PS pump with Cooler & Filter.
Bored TB, APN Manifold, New Downpipe, Magnaflow High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Super 44.
Dual Oil Relocation Kit running two K&N301 size filters, Autometer Digital Cobalt Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauge.
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