I bring this to you, because I can't seem to get it answered elsewhere - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Gertsch View Post
Check your timing, replace your points with one of these: http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx, make sure that your ballast functioning properly, check your dwell.
Yes, sometimes fewer words are better, sometimes not. I thought perhaps an explanation might clear things up for him. You can't have ignition timing if you have no spark to the spark plugs. The ballast resister is currently working as he has 12 volts to the coil. Dwell is the key word here. Since he doesn't know how to gap the points he probably doesn't know what dwell is or how to check it. One remote posibility I just thought of is to check to make sure the distributer rotor is actually turning when the engine is cranking. A broken timing chain is possible but not likely.

Pertronix products are great and easy to install!
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post #17 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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thanks all. Can you go over Dwell though? I found a site on gapping points. I think those instructions will do. Unfortunately, the Mopar world doesn't really have a quick-responding unit like the Jeep world does, so I can't really learn quickly over there.

I have a lot to check tomorrow so I will post with my results. Thanks again

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post #18 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 02:07 AM
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Dwell is merely the amount of time in degrees the points are in the open (or is it closed?) position. If you have the correct gap the dwell will be close enough to specs to allow the engine to run.
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post #19 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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**** points. Plain and simple. I installed new plug wires and finally have spark after the coil into the distributor. However, following any of the maybe THREE tutorials on the web for gapping points, I can't seem to "turn the motor over by hand until the bump on the central shaft makes the points open at maximum."

First of all, to adjust something like gap, you need to have a basis from where to start. I have no idea where to place the points. There is a nub where the hinge goes, okay, but where the screw attaches to the base-plate (the one with the "triangular hole" in it), the points have an elongated hole. Should I place it as close to the "central shaft"(which I take to mean the distributor cam) or as far as I can? Further, there is no "bump." the cam has a hexagonal shaft under where the rotor sits, but that's all I see.

Second, they say then that you "put a screwdriver in the triangle hole" and "adjust the points." can this make ****ing less sense?

I hate old technology. I ordered a Pertronix Ignitor today from Summit, hopefully it'll be here tomorrow. I just wanted to get this thing started today

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post #20 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 09:15 PM
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Patience Grasshopper!

Yes...aren't the slant sixes fun! The "central shaft" has 6 flat spots on it. At the end of each flat spot is an edge where it goes to the next flat spot. The little rubbing block on the points needs to rest on one edge at the end of the flat spots. Doesn't matter which one. It is at this point that you "put a screwdriver in the triangle hole" and "adjust the points." You can turn the rotor a little bit to see the points open or close.
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post #21 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by carracer View Post
Patience Grasshopper!

Yes...aren't the slant sixes fun! The "central shaft" has 6 flat spots on it. At the end of each flat spot is an edge where it goes to the next flat spot. The little rubbing block on the points needs to rest on one edge at the end of the flat spots. Doesn't matter which one. It is at this point that you "put a screwdriver in the triangle hole" and "adjust the points." You can turn the rotor a little bit to see the points open or close.
mm, I guess my sarcasm didn't come off well. the first part of your explanation: great. The second, I still dont seem to understand, specifically the screwdriver adjusting the points.

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post #22 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 11:32 PM
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You insert the screwdriver into the slot and twist one way or the other to open or close the gap.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/points.html

Further insight into points adjustment.
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post #23 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 11:37 PM
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Find someone that knows how to deal with points. Once they show you what is going on and how to deal with them, it will all makes sense to you. IIRC, you'll need to know it in order to set up the Petronix.

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post #24 of 40 Old 02-11-2008, 11:46 PM
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i messed around with a dwell meter one time.. a feeler gauge too, .. kept burning points up also. finally found out that you need to have a ballast resistor.

anyway that doesn't help you much but i had a total lack of fun with points before.

but as for encouragement...
getting your points set just right is very important and will make a big difference to you.
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post #25 of 40 Old 02-12-2008, 06:27 PM
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post #26 of 40 Old 02-12-2008, 08:16 PM
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You need to outline what you have and you don't have.
Spark? Fuel? Compression? Timing?
You shouldn't have a point type distributor if you have a 70s MoPar. It should be electronic. But if that is what is on the car, that is good enough. Check for spark. Pull a plug wire while it is cranking. If you have spark, your ignition system is working. Pretty easy to determine if you have fuel on a carbed engine. Open the throttle by grabbing the linkage and see if you get a squirt from the accelerator pump. If so, you have gas. I will assume you have enough compression for the engine to run. If you didn't the engine would spin over way to quickly when you were cranking. Next is ignition timing. Keep in mine a 6 cylinder engine will not start unless the timing is within a few degrees of the correct setting. It is not like a V8 where it can be in the ball park and it will start and run. NO, A 6 has to be just about dead on. Best way is to crank it around to TDC and look at the rotor, make sure it the rotor is ON #1 spark terminal on the cap. If all this check out it is possible the timing chain has jumped. Run a compression check and make sure your compression is reasonably correct with all 6 cylinders

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post #27 of 40 Old 02-12-2008, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Righteous View Post
You need to outline what you have and you don't have.
Spark? Fuel? Compression? Timing?
You shouldn't have a point type distributor if you have a 70s MoPar. It should be electronic. But if that is what is on the car, that is good enough. Check for spark. Pull a plug wire while it is cranking. If you have spark, your ignition system is working. Pretty easy to determine if you have fuel on a carbed engine. Open the throttle by grabbing the linkage and see if you get a squirt from the accelerator pump. If so, you have gas. I will assume you have enough compression for the engine to run. If you didn't the engine would spin over way to quickly when you were cranking. Next is ignition timing. Keep in mine a 6 cylinder engine will not start unless the timing is within a few degrees of the correct setting. It is not like a V8 where it can be in the ball park and it will start and run. NO, A 6 has to be just about dead on. Best way is to crank it around to TDC and look at the rotor, make sure it the rotor is ON #1 spark terminal on the cap. If all this check out it is possible the timing chain has jumped. Run a compression check and make sure your compression is reasonably correct with all 6 cylinders
Electronic started in 73, so I have points. I have pulled the coil wire, and it's arcing, but I can't pull a plug wire because the terminal is about an inch inside the boot.

I have yet to check timing, but compression sounds good. I got my pertronix kit today, so it will go on tomorrow.

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post #28 of 40 Old 02-13-2008, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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The electronic ignition did the trick. It fired right up afterward. The idle is a bit low though, so while timing it tonight I am also going to increase the idle. Now I just need to freshen up the brakes and suspension, and she should be ready to drive

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post #29 of 40 Old 02-13-2008, 10:30 PM
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Cool! Ya know...a set of Crager SS wheels would look really good on it!!!
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post #30 of 40 Old 02-13-2008, 10:33 PM
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The electronic ignition did the trick. It fired right up afterward.
Nice.....Well done!
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