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| #1 | |||
Registered User | How to measure for new windows?
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| #2 | |
Registered User | You need to find out what the actual window opening is, you'll need to pull trim or whatever to be able to actually measure. You can just measure what you can see and make a guess, but that turns out badly sometimes. |
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| #3 | |
Registered User | That makes sense. So I need to pull the trim, then the frame will be exposed and I should be able to measure the actual window? When the trim is pulled I should see the 2x4's and the shims as well? I'm a little new to this homeowner thing so please exscuse my ignorance. |
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| #4 | |
Registered User | yes pull the trim on the inside and you can measure your rough opening (2x4 or whatever was used) or you could measure the actual unit size of the window at that point. which ever direction you go you will be able to use either measurement. |
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| #5 | ||
An' ye harm none... | I would pop the trim and measure the rough opening. Get a drywall square or framing square and do a quick check for square. If it is a little out and you don't notice it can mess with the fit. Specify that you are giving them the rough opening size when you order. Then specify again. Then tell them clearly that it is the rough opening size. __________________ 2000greenTJ 1954 CJ3B A locked door is like a man who has tripped. Waste is a terrible thing to mind. Quote:
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| #6 | ||
Web Wheeler | Quote:
![]() __________________ -James Got to love an ORVIS guy... IRO 3.5", 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, JKS Quicker Discos, F&R Adjustable Track Bar, & Bilstein 5125, Cragar 16x7 Black Soft 8s 4" BS. JCR Stage 2 Sliders ///Alpine all around. | |
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| #7 | |
Registered User | Depends on if they are using new construction windows (removing trim would be necessary) or using replacement windows. I would suggest having the contractor do the measuring. That way if the measurement is wrong, its not your fault because you had done it incorrectly. Plus i'm sure the contractor has experience in what works best for the measurements, ie. take the top middle and bottom and use the mininum measurement, etc....rambling now. |
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| #8 | |
Registered User | Thanks guys. I think I know what I'm doing now. I appreciate it. |
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| #9 | ||
An' ye harm none... | Diagonals only tells you it is square if the top and bottom of the window are the same width. If one is wider or narrower but the centerline is the same it will read identical diagonals but the corners will not be square. ![]() __________________ 2000greenTJ 1954 CJ3B A locked door is like a man who has tripped. Waste is a terrible thing to mind. Quote:
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| #10 | |
VThinkin of jeeps&girlsV Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: In the shadows watching for evil doers, for I am Darth Ape defender of the force Posts: 827 BLOG ENTRIES: 1 | The above info was all good. But the best option would be to contact the maker of the window to see how they advise you measure. That way you know what you need to look at. They may want rough opening, they may want existing window size. So decide what manufacturer and style you are going with, then ask them. The reason you do it that way is you are going to pretty much have to special order them so best follow the guidance of the people who are supplying the windows. __________________ The Final Salute "Yep. I'm built like a girl with the face of a 12 year old." Turtlerace -Always remember: Pillage first, THEN burn! -Come to the darkside, we have cookies -The better a woman looks, the longer a man looks. Bicycle, then swing in and visit. Two spoke |
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| #11 | |
Registered User | No need to pull the trim off. Windows come in standard sizes. If you measure from the inside of the trim to the inside of the trim, you'll have a good enough idea what size the window is. For instance, an Andersen 3046 is approximately 36" wide x 45" high. I'd get a rough measurement of the opening. Then just check out the manufacturer's website for the specific size. |
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| #12 | ||
Registered User | Quote:
As others have said, pull the trim and measure the rough opening. Depending on Mfg they will downsize the window slightly for shimming. If it is a standard size you are good. If it is a custom size then you have two options, get custom window or modify the rough wall opening. | |
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| #13 | |
Registered User | Not a single standard size window anywhere in my house, made replacing them all kinds of fun. I got all my windows from Lowes, did the upper 2 levels myself and left the garden level to them. They were all set in brick and concrete and I def. didn't have the energy to mess with them. They can work off of window size or RO. For the ones I had them install I gave RO measurements so they could give me a price, but they sent someone out to verify before the order was sent in. Charged around $150/window to install if I remember right. |
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| #14 | |
Junior Member | Wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Before you do anything make sure you can according to local building code. Some states have wind standards that must be met and only a state certified contractor is allowed to install them or at the very least you must pull a permit as the homeowner and have it inspected. If you don't have the approved permit and paperwork you will play h### selling the home later. Mikey |
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| #15 | |
Registered User | Bought and paid for. I bought two 28"x38" white vinyl replacement windows last night. I had to special order them. I took my measurements in and wouldn't you know it I actually measured correctly. I measured 28" x 38" and apparently this is a standard size that manufacturers make for replacement windows. So it was alot easier than i suspected thanks to all the tips you guys gave. Now I just need to have them installed. |
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