deck restorer as bed liner - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 17 Old 01-03-2014, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
Indy
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deck restorer as bed liner TESTED AND RESULTS!

I know this has been brought up before but so far I've been unable to Find anyone that has tried it. I've read it shouldn't be used since its water based so it may rust, which makes no sense too me. Also it won't stick to metal well which does make Sense.

But I'm having some tinted now so we'll know for sure soon!

I'm doing a dark grey, worst case I need to stain my deck anyway best case $25 bed Liner. ResuLts in a few days.

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post #2 of 17 Old 01-03-2014, 04:04 PM
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I figured it wouldn't work because it dries hard and any use of the bed that might tweak it a bit would crack the finish allowing it to get water under it and rust or break or chip off. Bedliners are all rubber based and can flex some. I can see it being a good option for protecting the boards in the bottom of a trailer though.

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post #3 of 17 Old 01-03-2014, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about the flex as well. I figure depending on the deck i can feel quite a bit more flex than i do on the ribs of a bed so it might be ok. Im putting it in the so far so good category. I applied it to some cold sheet metal and immediately stood it upright to see if it would run off, no issues though. Ill do a 2nd coat tomorrow, wait a day and see how much abuse it will stand up to. If it holds up on the bare metal ill try it on scuffed paint.

$25 experiment



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post #4 of 17 Old 01-03-2014, 09:53 PM
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This would be awesome if it works.

My Jeep: 2010 Black JK Mountain Edition / Waiting patiently for the Zombie Apocalypse...
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-06-2014, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Things are delayed a but due to it being frozen absolutely solid yesterday. But thawed it today and put the 2nd coat on this afternoon. The can says to wait 8 hours before light foot traffic and 3-5 days before moving furniture on it.

But what fun is that? Its been about 8 hours. Abuse must start asap

It seems flexible enough.


I made thunder noises with it for a bit too, no flaking yet.

I realized last night that im using corrogated sheet and didnt scuff it before the first coat. So its on the glossy stuff now. The back im doing a flat, a gloss, and raw metal again but hitting it all with a brillo pad. If it sticks to the unscuffed metal i figure it will stick to about anything.

So far so good. Testing will continue.

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post #6 of 17 Old 01-07-2014, 02:21 AM
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"Thunder noises"
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-07-2014, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I believe that's the correct technical term.

2nd coat of the painted side on this afternoon, real testing begins in a few days.

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post #8 of 17 Old 01-07-2014, 01:32 PM
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It's probably similar to the difference in water/oil based paints. Water based just isn't going to weather as well.

"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-12-2014, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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So here we go, did some testing tonight. The can says 3-5 days before use and it will continue to harden for a few weeks. But it's been long enough to get a feel for it.

As a quick reminder: side 1 was given 2 coats per instructions onto galvanized sheet metal. It was not roughed up in any way so very shiny.


Side 2, flat paint lower left 1/3, gloss paint lower right 1/3 and raw metal upper 1/3. But all 3 were hit with some 00 steel wool prior to application. The metal wasn't scuffed in any way prior to paint so its shiny underneath.

First up was flexibility.

Passed in every area, no flaking etc.

After that I went for impact. Sticking with my scientific background I employed a method scientist world wide call "took it outside and beat the living bejeezus out of it over the rail of my deck". I figured this give it a hard impact coupled with wrapping around the railing at the same time. I wasn't gentle.

1st up, the bare metal.


After repeated beatings, complete and total failure. But this was on the shiny metal, so scuffed may fare better.

2nd side actually took most of the beatings as I watched the product come off in massive chunks. But I also reversed and delivered quite a few solid whacks to the shiny side making the painted side flex in both directions.



I'm calling this a pass! Look on the outside lower edges and you'll see some loss, but it TOOK THE PAINT WITH IT. Bare shiny steel, the rest of the plate is still holding strong!

Next up was the same treatment to the scuffed bare metal.

Bad picture, but once again total failure on bare metal. It came off all the way down to the edge of where the paint begins.

Last up, scrapes. I took the point of a pair of scissors and drug it across the finish applying quite a bit of pressure. It scratched and that's it. No picture. So then I repeated but put a LOT of pressure on the point.


Again, bare and shiny metal. Nothing that couldn't be touched up in 10 seconds.

The end result, it appears that it will not work on bare metal. However most importantly it holds as strongly as the paint it's applied to is bonded to the metal itself. I don't know how this compares to commercial bedliner as I don't have any to test and won't be spending $100 to find out. If someone has a spare bit to donate I'll compare the 2 with the same tests. As of right now though it looks like THIS COULD WORK!

I will be continuing the test with live trials! It will be a week or so before I begin but I'm going to test it in the bed of my Tacoma. Later results will be posted after I have some more info!

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post #10 of 17 Old 01-13-2014, 11:35 AM
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I think spending $100 to use a product designed for that use would be better than deck restorer. In the end I feel you will end up spending more money on maintenance of the deck restorer than you will spend on using the right stuff the first time. My dad always said if you don't have time to do it right the first time when will you have time to fix it. It can go right along with this if you can't afford to do it right the first time when will you be able to afford to fix it. I say save some money and use a product designed for the purpose of lining your pickup bed not for a product designed to cover a wooden deck. MHO

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EVERYBODY is pro-gun, some just don't know it. When an anti-gun person is in trouble, the first thing they do is call 911 and demand that they send somebody with a gun!

We've idiot proofed the world... now its full of idiots. - Spiritof76

You will truly be the same today as you will be five years from now, except for two things, the people you meet and the books you read. Charles E. Jones

I think I'll add some memorable quotes. blah blah blah..... FPKites

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post #11 of 17 Old 01-13-2014, 03:34 PM
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Personally I think you're going to be really disappointed with it when it gets scratched to hell. Saying it can be touched up easily is a poor excuse for the wrong product for the wrong application. Bedliners are one of those things to do right the first time because trying to redo it is going to be a HUGE PITA.

Monstaliner and Chassis Saver are hands down the best DIY system. If you somehow manage to scratch through the Monstaliner you're not going to get through the Chassis Saver.
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-13-2014, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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But the exercise as entertainment alone is worth the cost. And this is in no way bEing anticipaTed as bEing the best route. Just whether or not it well work. My taComa is the perfect test bed. $25 is great number to spend on my $200 truck. For good or bad I guarantee I won't spending more money on a redo

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post #13 of 17 Old 01-13-2014, 08:00 PM
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You got a sensitive shift key?

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post #14 of 17 Old 01-13-2014, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjones26573
You got a sensitive shift key?
HeS nOt sensiTive hes jUST goinG THRu a ToUGh tiMe!
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-13-2014, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepComanche89 View Post
HeS nOt sensiTive hes jUST goinG THRu a ToUGh tiMe!

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