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Old 09-09-2003, 03:50 PM   #1
ErikJordan
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damn dealerships!

this is a problem i am having with my expedition.. i have been having problems in a few areas with this expedition.. it is a 2000 model xlt, and it has been having some quirky transmission problems that they can never seem to figure out, an recently, i brought it in for an oil consumption problem. they have in the past changed the "mass air" sensor, and blamed that on the k&n intake system that is installed in the truck.. i can relate to that, and play along there, but now they are saying the k&n air filter is the reason for any oil consumption... can you believe this crap?! you put one after market part on your vehicle, and they atribute evereything that ever happens to it to the aftermarket part ... lol! they dont know who they are dealing with here... if they think i am just going to lie down, they are sadly mistaken!
does anyone have any pointers on how to handle these bastards? (kirk?) lol
so i wound up putting the stock air intake system back on there this afternoon just to shut them to hell up, and so they can eliminate the
INTAKE as an oil consumption problem .

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Old 09-09-2003, 04:32 PM   #2
whitevette
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About the K&N and MAF--

On Fords the MAF is the master, it's the commander that everything follows. It's like the God sensor. Any and all changes by the PCM take the MAF as the major consideration. Don't **** with it. That said, the K&N has a tendancy to piss oil all over it, causing the readings to be off which in turn affects EVERYTHING else with the drivability and engine/tranny controls.

Fords solution to indicated MAF problems has always been to replace it. When you overcharge your K&N and piss oil all over your MAF and take it to a dealer to figure out what's wrong, that MAF is going to be replaced.

Here's how you avoid that if you want to keep using your K&N-

Clean the MAF. It's that simple.

You'll need a T20 Security Torx bit. The security bits have a hollow center. Look at the two bolts holding the MAF down to the MAF tube and you'll see little dimples. Those dimples keep a normal Torx bit from working. You can find the T20 Security at most parts places that carry a decent selection of tools. You'll probably have to buy it in a kit with a pile of other bits though. Security Torx bits can be used on all Torx head screws, but non Security Torx cannot be used on all Torx headed screws.

Ok, a little long winded there.

Equipment needed-
Wrench to disconnect battery
T20 Security Torx bit
Electrical Contact Cleaner (non-residual)

How to clean--

1- DISCONNET THE BATTERY

2- Take your T20S and pull out the two screws holding the element into the MAF tube. Disconnect the wire connecter too. Pull the sensor STRAIGHT UP! That's very important. Be very gentle with this part as it's fragile and expensive. Lay the sensor upside down (wire elements up) on some sort of work surface.

3- Hose down the two wires with the ECC. Make sure to buy a product that is non-residual. Radio Shack has some good stuff that I like to use. It's in an arasol(?) can. Be careful to not get too close to the wires, putting too much 'water' pressure on them.

4- Let MAF dry completely. If you wish, you may repeat step 3. This waiting time also gives the ECM enough time to lose its memory and reset itself.

5- When the wire elements are completly dry, carefully reinstall the sensor into the tube. Reconnect the wires. Reconnect the battery.

You may notice on on the first drive that your truck acts a little strange. That's to be expected, as the PCM is learning.

If you heavily oil your K&N, you'll notice your MAF getting dirty much faster. Just clean the MAF back off using the above steps. Pay particular attention after re-oiling your K&N. If you change your own engine oil, just clean the MAF while you're doing the oil change and you should never see any more problems from it. Keeping it clean is the only thing it takes to keep it operating properly.



About the oil consumption--

How many miles are on the truck?
What weight and brand oil are you using?

When was the last time the PCV was replaced? Pull it off and shake it. If it doesn't rattle, replace it. If it rattles but is older than 20k miles, replace it. It's cheap. Less than $10 from Napa or the like.

Hope this essay helps.

Colin
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Old 09-09-2003, 04:56 PM   #3
89YJmoneypit
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Whats your tranny problem?My 99(45k) has been shuddering a little when it goes into overdrive,I pull a 24ft camper sometimes so I'm guessing they'll probably blame it on that(even though it has a towing package )although I don't run it in OD when I'm towing.
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Old 09-09-2003, 04:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89YJmoneypit
Whats your tranny problem?My 99(45k) has been shuddering a little when it goes into overdrive,I pull a 24ft camper sometimes so I'm guessing they'll probably blame it on that(even though it has a towing package )although I don't run it in OD when I'm towing.
it is slow going into gears in the morning, and shifts weird on mountain roads..
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Old 09-09-2003, 05:04 PM   #5
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How old is the fluid?
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Old 09-09-2003, 05:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitevette
How old is the fluid?
the expedition is a 2000 year, and has 65,000 miles on it with 110,00 mile extended warranty. all oil, and fluids are changed more often than is needed.. i change the oil every 2500 miles. all fluids have been changed within the last 10000 miles.
i appreciate your input, but what i am really lloking for is a way to get these pricks off of the k&n filter being the cause of everything that happens to this truck. i bought the more expensive 50 state legal k&n filter set up which is not sopposed to effect the warranties.
these guys just see an opening and jump on it to save themselves a couple of hours.
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Old 09-09-2003, 05:20 PM   #7
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The only way to get them to stop blaming the K&N for the oil consumption is to come down HARD on the service writer, go to a different dealership or say f' it and go to an independant shop. Keep the stock intake on for the time being though.

What's the fluid level in the tranny? That could explain the odd shifting in the mountians (truck isn't level). I'd especially blame the level or fluid type if this has just started since the fluid change in the last 10k miles.
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