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Unread 01-14-2002, 07:20 PM   #1
Brendan
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CV driveshaft VS. Standard

I am finally in the process of lifting my jeep, and I am going to buy the Rubicon 4" kit. I want to get one of their Slip Yoke eliminator kits. I don't know if I should get the CV kit or the Standard kit. They are both a little below $200. Which is better, CV or Standard. I am planning to keep my Dana 35

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Unread 01-14-2002, 09:02 PM   #2
RodeoRob
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CV shafts go hand in hand with the Slip Yoke Eliminator, can't run one with out it.

-Rob
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Robert Gorrell
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo - SAS'd and SOA'd, sitting on 36x12.50 TSLs, D44 front, 14bff rear, locked by OX and Detriot, suspensions by Jeep and Chevy, high steer conversion, 5.13 gearing and Teralow in the case.
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Unread 01-14-2002, 09:30 PM   #3
osburn
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Not true rice boy! Or maybe you misunderstood his question. He's asking if he should run a CV shaft or not. Not whether or not he should run an SYE. RE offers the SYE with or without a CV yoke. The SYE really only seals up the tcase and allows you to put a CV yoke on the output shaft if you desire one.

Generally, a standard single u-joint configuration is stronger. Or at least less likely to fail in a normal setup. Less u-joints. Less failure points. But, in our world, with short rear driveshafts and steep angles due to lifting, the CV is much more capable of handling the steep angles needed.

In your case, definately go for the CV. But realize the rear end will need to be run at more angle. Check with RE about what sort of shims you should be running.
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Unread 01-14-2002, 09:47 PM   #4
RodeoRob
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Quote:
Originally posted by osburn:
Not true rice boy!
Always watching my back aren't ya osburn. Yea, come to think off it, my 'rice rig' comes stock with a SYE and your standard shaft (no CV). So i suppose i should think a little more before I answer... i suppose what i ment to say is CV shaft can't be used with a Slip Yoke, but it came out the other way around. Oh well.

-Rob
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Robert Gorrell
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo - SAS'd and SOA'd, sitting on 36x12.50 TSLs, D44 front, 14bff rear, locked by OX and Detriot, suspensions by Jeep and Chevy, high steer conversion, 5.13 gearing and Teralow in the case.
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Unread 01-15-2002, 01:48 AM   #5
horatio102
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Um, but the SYE comes in either CV or non...
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Unread 01-15-2002, 06:02 AM   #6
Brendan
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RE says they make a it with a CV linkage or standard linkage. With 4" of lift that means a higher angle, does that mean a CV is the best bet, or with less fail points would the standard be better?
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Unread 01-15-2002, 08:12 PM   #7
osburn
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Quote:
Originally posted by RodeoRob:
Quote:
Originally posted by osburn:
Not true rice boy!
Always watching my back aren't ya osburn. Yea, come to think off it, my 'rice rig' comes stock with a SYE and your standard shaft (no CV). So i suppose i should think a little more before I answer... i suppose what i ment to say is CV shaft can't be used with a Slip Yoke, but it came out the other way around. Oh well.
I just can't resist! But at least you're not naive enough to think we're not gonna take a crack at the Isuzu now and then. You're a good sport no matter what kinda junk you drive!

Quote:
Originally posted by Brendan:
RE says they make a it with a CV linkage or standard linkage. With 4" of lift that means a higher angle, does that mean a CV is the best bet, or with less fail points would the standard be better?
If it weren't for the angle, the standard would be stronger. Well wait, not stronger, just less likely to fail, because as you point out, there are less failure points. But with 4" of lift, the angle the joints have to operate at make the CV a better choice.
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Unread 01-16-2002, 07:50 AM   #8
bcompton
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One thing that was mentioned in passing but is real important is the rear pinion angle. With a CV shaft, the rear pinion (differential) must be parallel with the shaft. With a U-joint shaft, that's not true.

If you go with the CV, be prepared to do some real work on the diff (and possible the spring perches, and control arm mounts) to make it work.
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01 Sport, front drum brake & birfield joint conversion, custom '4 Wheel Drive' stickers, neon washer nozzles, chrome type 'r' oil pan bolts, wooden bead seat pads, racing exhaust tip, offroad license plate frame,
lots of misc. stuff (2.5" Skyjacker springs, 1" BL, 1"MML, Custom flat tcase & engine skid, RE arms, Skyjacker shocks, JKS Discos, Superlift Trac bars, Garvin bumpers, Warn 9.5ti, Lockright & trac-lock, 32" BFG KM's, Kilby & warn skids, EOR rocker bars, cowl snorkel)
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Unread 01-16-2002, 10:20 AM   #9
bcompton
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Good catch. I stand (or sit) corrected!
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01 Sport, front drum brake & birfield joint conversion, custom '4 Wheel Drive' stickers, neon washer nozzles, chrome type 'r' oil pan bolts, wooden bead seat pads, racing exhaust tip, offroad license plate frame,
lots of misc. stuff (2.5" Skyjacker springs, 1" BL, 1"MML, Custom flat tcase & engine skid, RE arms, Skyjacker shocks, JKS Discos, Superlift Trac bars, Garvin bumpers, Warn 9.5ti, Lockright & trac-lock, 32" BFG KM's, Kilby & warn skids, EOR rocker bars, cowl snorkel)
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Unread 01-16-2002, 04:03 PM   #10
Brendan
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Thanks a lot all, it helped. From what I've heard I guess the CV is the clear choice. Where do I put the shims?
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Unread 01-16-2002, 06:17 PM   #11
osburn
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On the rear axle. Between the springs and the spring perches, with the fat part towards the front.
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