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post #16 of Old 12-22-2012, 11:14 AM
turtlerace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremzj View Post
If he jumped the starter it would bypass all of that.
Depends on where he jumped to.

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post #17 of Old 12-22-2012, 11:29 AM
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Lol I understand that. When you "jump" something you are skipping over all the stuff to see what works. Sorta like jumping over the stuff. Hence the phrase "jump".

Just hook the jumpers to the batterty then positive and negative to starter. It's really not that hard to understand/do. If the the starter dosent turn over then you have something hooked up wrong, the battery is dead or the starter is crap.

Jesus....It's like explaining this to intern at work.

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post #18 of Old 12-22-2012, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Well i hooked the + and - to the battery. And then i put the other - where the - battery cable is grounded. Then i hooked the + to the starter on the small post
opposite if the signal wire.

I got a click but no turning over. Charging battery right now.

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post #19 of Old 12-22-2012, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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So, heres the breakdown of what is happening:
Lights come on
Fan comes on

Nothing happens when key is turned
Fan died when key is turned

Brand new starter
Hooked up correctly

Battery is old but even when being jumped there is no click or anything.

When i hooked up jumpers and i hooked battery up it clicked but didnt start

Im now charging battery.





I know this is Jeepforum but would rather not join another forum. Plus this is the most helpful forum ive ever been on.

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post #20 of Old 12-22-2012, 02:59 PM
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Look at the plug right into the starter, my 75 K10 did exactly this, where the 12 volt feed wire into the solenoid on the starter had broken, had 12 volts to the wire, it just wasn't making it across the break.

99 percent sure you have the same issue

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post #21 of Old 12-22-2012, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truck633 View Post
Look at the plug right into the starter, my 75 K10 did exactly this, where the 12 volt feed wire into the solenoid on the starter had broken, had 12 volts to the wire, it just wasn't making it across the break.

99 percent sure you have the same issue
Thank you!! Could you go more in depth on what exacly you are talking about? Im not quite sure what wire you are talking about.

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post #22 of Old 12-22-2012, 04:04 PM
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its possible you got a bad starter

^ it made more sense in my head

removed for stirring the pot
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post #23 of Old 12-22-2012, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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It started about 4 months ago with a starter that had been on for 8 months. The starter had been on for a year and so day before yesterday i got a free warranty replacement. So i know the starter is good.

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post #24 of Old 12-22-2012, 04:10 PM
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trace the "S" wire back with a test light from here... Have a buddy crank it while you poke! My break was right at the terminal!
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post #25 of Old 12-22-2012, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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trace the "S" wire back with a test light from here... Have a buddy crank it while you poke! My break was right at the terminal!
Thank you! Ok so just test the signal wire all the way up? Will do. But there are 2 problems. This may make me seem stupid.

Ok, the wire runs through a metal tube with some other wires. Do i just test on
either side or pull it out?

And how do i test it, since the wires have the plastic/insulation on it? Just cut a small bit off or???



I feel dumb because i can rebuild a 350 but am not very good with electical stuff.

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post #26 of Old 12-22-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tylerzap View Post
Thank you! Ok so just test the signal wire all the way up? Will do. But there are 2 problems. This may make me seem stupid.

Ok, the wire runs through a metal tube with some other wires. Do i just test on
either side or pull it out?

And how do i test it, since the wires have the plastic/insulation on it? Just cut a small bit off or???



I feel dumb because i can rebuild a 350 but am not very good with electical stuff.
if it has plastic insulation you could poke through it with a test light but id rather test the ends so moisture doesnt get in the wires and cause more issues later on

^ it made more sense in my head

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post #27 of Old 12-22-2012, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bravobravo View Post
if it has plastic insulation you could poke through it with a test light but id rather test the ends so moisture doesnt get in the wires and cause more issues later on
So i just use a volt meter right? And how many should it have?

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post #28 of Old 12-22-2012, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremzj View Post
Lol I understand that. When you "jump" something you are skipping over all the stuff to see what works. Sorta like jumping over the stuff. Hence the phrase "jump".

Just hook the jumpers to the batterty then positive and negative to starter. It's really not that hard to understand/do. If the the starter dosent turn over then you have something hooked up wrong, the battery is dead or the starter is crap.

Jesus....It's like explaining this to intern at work.
Ahh i just understood what you ment. I will do that early tomarrow and report back. If it doesnt work i would assume it would have to be the signal wire?

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post #29 of Old 12-23-2012, 10:33 AM
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Ok I'll give you a step by step.

1. Be sure the shift lever is in the park position.

2. Attempt to start engine. If engine doesn't start proceed to step 3. If engine starts skip to step 11.

3. Make sure the battery is charged.

4. Check that the connections on both ends of the battery cables are tight and clean.

5. Attempt to start engine. If it doesn't start proceed to step 6. If engine starts skip to step 11.

6. Check for 12v on the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid while someone else turns the ignition key to the start position. FYI the wire in the original harness should be purple. If 12v is present then you have a issue with your starter. If 12v is not present continue to step 7.

7. Check for 12v at the neutral safety switch while the key is turned to the start position. The switch is located on top of the column down next to the firewall. The top two terminals are for reverse lights. The other set breaks the start circuit when the shifter is not in the park or neutral position. In your case originally there would be a purple wire and a yellow wire on the terminals. When the key is turned to the start position there should be 12v on both the yellow and purple wires. If there is voltage on the yellow wire but not the purple then replace the neutral safety switch. If there is not 12v on either terminal the problem is probably the ignition switch. If you have voltage on both terminals proceed to step 8.



8. Check the connector where the purple wire comes through the firewall. With the key in the start position there should be 12v on both sides of the connector on the purple wire. If not unplug connector and check for corrosion and clean if needed. Be sure the connector plugged together fully and that the terminals fully engaged into the connector housing. Proceed to step 9.

9. Attempt to start engine. If engine doesn't start proceed to step 10. If engine starts skip to step 11.

10. ????? and proceed to step 11.

11. profit
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post #30 of Old 12-23-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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I just jumped the starter and it wouldnt crank but turned over. I poured gas in the carb and turned the key and it fired right up. Youve never seen a fat guy run so fast through the yard screaming and doing flips and stuff. I let it run for a while and then cut it off. Turned the key again and it fired right up. I tried 1 more time and i just got a click. No lights. Moved battery terminals and i heard the buzzer. Clicked again when i tried to start it. I will track down that problem later. Just happy i got it to run and drive some.

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