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The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Safety Thimble FairleadsEngo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shipp

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Unread 04-17-2013, 02:09 PM   #46
Balvar24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlbook48 View Post
Solved it! Got a buddy with a Chevy distributor converted to a priming tool I can borrow for the cause.
Harbor Freight sells screw drivers cheap enough to cut the handles off and chuck them up in a drill.

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Unread 04-17-2013, 07:26 PM   #47
JeepComanche89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balvar24

Harbor Freight sells screw drivers cheap enough to cut the handles off and chuck them up in a drill.
X2, ive done the screwdriver trick before.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 02:13 AM   #48
Burlbook48
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Spent some time tonight getting the lower end ready for some new oil. I pulled the starter, tested it to make sure it still works, and removed the splash shield for the clutch. Things are pretty grungy under there:



Here is the oil filter. It's the old style, with the long bolt that goes through the filter case into the block:



Cleaned up, you can still read the writing on the side of the oil filter case:



I had drained the oil pan overnight. After disconnecting the idler arm for the steering from the frame, I dropped the drawbar down and removed the oil pan. I was suprised to find a bunch of oil sludge still in the pan. Probably because I had to jack the car up in the front to get some working room. But this stuff was thick and gloopy... like thick pancake batter that was barely mixed enough. And there was quite a bit of caked-on oil deposits stuck to the inside of the pan, kinda like a popcorn ceiling. I didn't want any of that coming loose, so I started appying the elbow grease to clean the pan:



There was enough of that sludge to fill this water bottle, and then some. Took a while to drain it, even when scooping it whith my fingers.:



After spending a bunch of time (about 45 minutes) with mineral spirits and a brass brush, here is what I ended up with. It's good enough to get the motor running again. But more important, it's clean on the inside:



Here is the oil filter case with the long bolt, new filter, and the spring and flange that hold the filter tight to the block while inside the case:



And a couple shots of the underside of the block after sitting for 45 years. Notice all the clumpy oil sticking to the oil pump. I pulled the pump, disassembled it, and have it soaking in solvent. The red (inside the motor) in the pics is not rust, just the glare of the shop-light laying on the ground next to me:






Tomorrow is another day. I'll replace everything, add new oil, pull the valve covers, and prime the engine with oil. Hope to see oil lubricating everything it is supposed to, and nothing it is not. That will be good news.
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Unread 04-19-2013, 02:55 AM   #49
phitmein
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I can't help but think that your heads need to be pulled and rebuilt .

Your valve guides have to be trash by now right ?

As well as the front/crankshaft and rear engine seals ?
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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:42 PM   #50
Burlbook48
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Yeah, you're right, Phit. Things to look into. Luckily, the weekend is just beginning.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #51
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Cleaned up the oil pump this morning. As you can see in an above post of the underside of the motor, it was a sticky mess. The screen was full of a thick muck, and the pressure relief valve was stuck in place. I took it apart, and gave it a good soaking overnight in mineral spirits. Then used a brush, air pressure, and laquer thinner to clean the screen. So far, so good.:




The pressure relief valve was another matter. It is held in place by a pressed-in pin. I had to grab a 3/32" drill bit, grind the cutting part of the bit off the shaft, and use that in the press to push the pin out.:




Here you can see the pin pushed halfway out, and how it stops the spring retension plate from coming out:




Here are all the players when seperated. The valve itself was frozen in place. Using Kroil and air pressure, I was albe to force it out. You can see how gummy everything was:




Cleaned up, the valve looks a hell of a lot better, and slides easily in the machined hole in the pump housing:



I used a spring pin to hold the parts back in place again. it was way to long, so I pressed it in until it was *just* shy of the inner face, and then ground it off flush with the outer surface:



This is the pressure releif hole, and how the valve fits. Now a small screwdriver can move it back with just a touch. The valve is set to move back at 35 PSI, when the pressure overcomes the spring's ability to hold the valve closed. The dark fluid on the valve and screwdriver is just oil I used to lubricate the parts during assembly:



Here we go, all cleaned up and ready to party:

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Unread 04-20-2013, 08:18 PM   #52
Cuder
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Don't ya just love the smell of the old oil? Did you know about this adapter?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pr...-265/year/1956
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Unread 04-20-2013, 09:36 PM   #53
Burlbook48
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Yeah, I do. For now, I'm trying to see if I can get it going as original as possible. Just for starters. After that, we'll see.

My hope is to take Dad for a ride in his car *just* the way he left it. Except for the raveges of time, of course.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 09:50 PM   #54
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Success! After spending a bunch of time getting everything bolted back together (oil pump, oil pan, starter (what a PITA!), both clutch covers, and the steering idler arm) I found out my 3/8" right-angle drill was not strong enough to drive both the fake distributor shaft and oil pump without overheating. The old "fake" distributor was needed to drive the oil pump to prime the moter with oil before I attempt to start it. I want to make sure oil is getting where it needs to be. The flip side of that problem is that my usual partners of destruction, a 3/8" Dewalt and a 1/2" Milluakee, were too long to grip the dristributor and still clear the firewall.

But, a trip to Home Depot, and a few minutes time from a VERY helpful Jim (Thanks, Jim!) got me a flexible extension for my drill. Now I could drive the distributor, prime the motor, and not kill my right angle sidekick.

Players in question: Makita 3/8" Keyless Chuck Adapter, Ryobi 11" Flexible shaft 1/4' bit holder, and a 2" DeWalt magnetic bit holder.




Close up shot of the parts in action:




Final score--- all rockers are now getting oil! Some more than others, but I hope that will be evened out when I crank her up in a couple/few weeks (need a gas tank). The increased flow, not to mention engine heat, should loosen any sludge that remains in the oil passages.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 11:44 PM   #55
phitmein
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Damn dawg ?

You either got big hands and forearms, or a small head .

Respect .
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Unread 04-22-2013, 11:53 PM   #56
Burlbook48
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You know what they say about guys with big hands, right?

BTW... Like Popeye said I eats me spinach.

Ah, shucks--- its just camera perspective. But I do wear X-large gloves, does that count?
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Unread 04-23-2013, 01:09 AM   #57
phitmein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlbook48 View Post
You know what they say about guys with big hands, right?

BTW... Like Popeye said… “I eats me spinach.”

Ah, shucks--- it’s just camera perspective. But I do wear X-large gloves, does that count?
I would have been more concerned/worried if you said you had big feet too .

But then this isn't a pissing contest is it ?
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Unread 04-23-2013, 11:53 AM   #58
prjohnson
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You know what they say about guys with big hands, right?

They wear big gloves, right?
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Unread 04-24-2013, 11:32 PM   #59
Burlbook48
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Ordered this little baby today. Dunno how to copy the picture off the web page, but I'll take pics when it shows up. Also a fuel regulator since it's a carb motor, new tank straps, back-flush prevention valve, and a few other goodies.


http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...lth-fuel-tank/

After the tank is in place and I see how I want to run things, I'll get the correct lengths for fuel and return lines. I'll still need fittings and other small details. I'm going to try and re-use the stock filler tube, but am thinking of adding a vent tube to the filler since the tank already has a fitting for one.

And to think I balked at ordering Mastercraft seats for my YJ because of the price.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 01:00 PM   #60
Cavasar
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Can't wait for more pics

Click free
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